dangerous BSA Supersport

[piggy589]

Pseudo two stage,it is possible to over adjust the trigger and remove first stage movement.

[evert]

If you decide to strip the rifle:
I am pretty sure that the SuperSport trigger is the same as the Superstar. If it is not, I am sure someone will correct me...

Depends on how old the rifle is.
Old Supersports had a trigger blade fixed to the sear, so you had no "pseudo" two stage trigger.
Later Supersports have the same "pseudo" two stage trigger blade as the Superstar.

But it really is the same trigger, with the same sears, the difference is in the trigger blade/grip.

[craig9mm]

thanks for the replies everyone,not sure how to date the weapon,
I was thinking of getting a second hand one but having walked into this mess it will prob be (another) HW30
the patient will go under anaesthetic next week.....finger crossed and I can send it back to the owner fixed

[TonyL]

Depends on how old the rifle is.
Old Supersports had a trigger blade fixed to the sear, so you had no "pseudo" two stage trigger.
Later Supersports have the same "pseudo" two stage trigger blade as the Superstar.

But it really is the same trigger, with the same sears, the difference is in the trigger blade/grip.

Yep, and my very cosmetically challenged very early one has what appears to be a home-made copy of the Superstar blade with the notch cut out for the little spring, but no spring. So a, sort of, pseudo two-stage but without that first pretend stage being sprung. If that makes sense? Still quite predictable, though and the rifle is remarkably accurate.

[evert]

Yep, and my very cosmetically challenged very early one has what appears to be a home-made copy of the Superstar blade with the notch cut out for the little spring, but no spring. So a, sort of, pseudo two-stage but without that first pretend stage being sprung. If that makes sense? Still quite predictable, though and the rifle is remarkably accurate.

Just needs a spring then?

[TonyL]

Yep, and I will try to source one, one day. But, in the mean time, it's actually very usable.

[johnbaz]

I bought a really nice Supersport in .25" from John (Blackrider), Can only use Marksman pellets as all the others were to large at the head of the pellet








John

[evert]

I bought a really nice Supersport in .25" from John (Blackrider)

VERY nice!
See its got a transfer port choke screw too! Never seen that over here.

[craig9mm]

hi all again
Patient still under anaesthetic
Spring removed,2.5+ inches of preload(used home made compressor) to me thats a lot!
Spring not broken as prev suggested
Instructions to get piston out by pressing sear down not v clear to me
""just pop the sear pivot pin and tuck it in to remove the piston.""
I should mention the state of the cocking arm...
The last 1.5 inches clearly its bent to the right
Its laminated section.Starts off as 4 piece section narrowing down
to 3 then 2 sections.Certainly even when its down to 3 sections ,all 3 are bent to the right
++++by a minimum 2.5 mm *** could this be the problem?

Ive googled "superstar strip" It looks more like alchoholics anon meeting,
I had a BSA springer never again etc....
Best comment was ....its easy,sell it to some other "eejit" and let them do it

so any further advice?
atb
c

[evert]

,
I had a BSA springer never again etc....
Best comment was ....its easy,sell it to some other "eejit" and let them do it

so any further advice?
atb
c

Sell it to someone who appreciates it. Older supersports are really good guns when set up correctly ;-)

[Phil Russell]

Here are the notes I made for removing the piston on a Superstar without taking the trigger apart:

To remove piston but keeping trigger intact: The main sear stops the piston from coming out so to remove the piston the sear that protrudes into the cylinder, the main sear, has to be depressed.
To do this: Strip to the point where the Maxi rail is removed. Find a 'push rod' about 40mm long x 4mm diameter, preferably with a grip or knob on the end. I used an old cupboard drawer knob fitted with a longer rod. From the top of the action, look into the cylinder through the end maxi grip hole. Note the main sear in the centre. Place your pusher on top of the sear, pull trigger and push the pusher down. It moves the sear out of the cylinder against the strength of the main sear spring. Now block the sear by placing the end of a 4mm hex key, or similar, in the space that has appeared at the rear of the trigger housing. It is now possible to remove or replace both the breech block and/or the piston without interference from the trigger. I wish I had found this trick before.

If you dismantle the trigger it is a fiddle to get it back together.
To dismantle:
To dismantle trigger..
Note large pin at top left. This is main sear pin. Leave this alone.
Keep all parts in the position they came out: photos are good.
In the middle of the housing there is a row of 3 pins. On the right is the trigger stop pin. Remove this pin.
Centre is the trigger tensioner spring pin, V shape spring with an ‘eye’ on each end. This pin also acts to tension the main sear spring. It is under tension from the main sear spring tab so when you punch it out, be prepared. Remove it. The sear spring will release its tension but will remain fixed to its pin on the left. and you will also release a thin V shape spring.
Remove the sear spring pin on the left; the sear spring comes free.
Remove the pin on the bottom row that holds the trigger. Take care because a small coil spring is present between the two bits that come free.
Finally, remove the large main sear pin at the top and remove the main sear.
The trigger is now reduced to components and the piston assembly will come out of the cylinder.

To rebuild trigger:
1. Insert main sear and locate with pin, top left.
2. Locate the big sear spring on the pin at the centre far left (barrel to left), making sure the spring legs locate under the main sear 'prongs' in order to push the sear up into the cylinder.
3. Using a suitable drift, locate the V spring on the middle centre pin hole with the point of the V away from the cylinder and the eyes to the left with the trigger housing pointing up.. The drift will be under the sear spring tang. The issue now is to position the sear spring tang under the pin/drift with the V spring in place. Making sure the V spring stayed in place, I slowly began to remove the drift until it cleared the tang but held the V spring by one arm. It was then possible to angle the drift onto the top of the tang (some downward pressure required on the tang to help this) and use it as a lever to push the tang down and hold it while the pivot pin was inserted into the opposite hole and pushed home after checking it went through the eye in the V spring. It was moved across the tang to slowly drive the drift out. This was difficult at the end because the pin was not exactly central to the hole in the trigger housing. The drift was removed: pin stayed in place over the tang but was not fully in line with the pin hole. It needed downward pressure from a drift/screwdriver blade to push the pin in line with the hole in the housing. It was then tapped home. Check that good pressure is on the main sear. All OK.
4. Add the trigger blade components and stop pin.

Remember this is for a Superstar but from the pictures of triggers, that on the Supersport is the same although ignore references to the breech block above as it isn't there on the Supersport!

Good luck.
Cheers, Phil