Any Titan rifle trigger experts ? Need a bit of advice.

[Tony.T]

Bit of a long shot, but I've got a really nice Titan FT rifle. Not sure when it was made but I guess mid 80's to early 90's.

I bought this on a whim a few years back but hardly touched it. I'm now putting it back into service to shoot the UBC benchrest comp at 15yds (max I can go to in the back garden. It's very accurate and seems to be consistent.

But- the trigger is odd, compared to modern designs. It feels 'floppy', has no distinct first stage but it does come to a halt before the second stage which is crisp, albeit very light which I don't like so it doesn't instil much confidence. Back in the day these were highly regarded and I shot next to several people using them to great effect.

Normally I don't have any trouble setting up a trigger, Rekords, T01 and T06 are easy to get just so- but this Titan trigger is weird!

Anyone know anything about them?

[ZAKDINGEL]

Bit of a long shot, but I've got a really nice Titan FT rifle. Not sure when it was made but I guess mid 80's to early 90's.

I bought this on a whim a few years back but hardly touched it. I'm now putting it back into service to shoot the UBC benchrest comp at 15yds (max I can go to in the back garden. It's very accurate and seems to be consistent.

But- the trigger is odd, compared to modern designs. It feels 'floppy', has no distinct first stage but it does come to a halt before the second stage which is crisp, albeit very light which I don't like so it doesn't instil much confidence. Back in the day these were highly regarded and I shot next to several people using them to great effect.

Normally I don't have any trouble setting up a trigger, Rekords, T01 and T06 are easy to get just so- but this Titan trigger is weird!

Anyone know anything about them?

Has it got the two screws with the little nuts on one gives you sear tension and the other gives trigger travel usually all the ones I have had are usually out enough to stop you removing the housing screws --don't expect a match grade trigger on these but a little practise will get the feel of it as im sure you will no

[T 20]

Is it this trigger unit ? :-

image.jpeg


I only ask as I've read there was another one.

[Tony.T]

Is it this trigger unit ? :-

image.jpeg


I only ask as I've read there was another one.

Yes Mick- that's the one

[T 20]

Yes Mick- that's the one

Ah then Tony.

The rear adjuster bolt alters the sear engagement, the front adjuster screw alters the length of the first stage.

The trigger isn't a true two stage unit as the first stage is just taking up the Spring pressure.

If you remove the trigger cage always hold the trigger in the fire position when refitting it or you can break the cage lugs when tightening the screws.




All the best Mick

[Tony.T]

Just what I needed- thanks Mick- think I have to have a look and play tomorrow now I know what does what!

[T 20]

Just what I needed- thanks Mick- think I have to have a look and play tomorrow now I know what does what!

Hi Tony

I normally adjust the rear adjustment screw first for sear engagement, then I adjust the front adjustment screw to set the length of first pull.
You can adjust the front screw so that you lose the first stage altogether if you prefer ?



All the best Mick

[Tony.T]

Hi Tony

I normally adjust the rear adjustment screw first for sear engagement, then I adjust the front adjustment screw to set the length of first pull.
You can adjust the front screw so that you lose the first stage altogether if you prefer ?



All the best Mick

Okay- understood- they are a bit odd though? But the rest of the rifle is in great condition and a pleasure to own. A bit of well engineered nostalgia.
Am I right in thinking it was a Bowkett design?

[T 20]

Okay- understood- they are a bit odd though? But the rest of the rifle is in great condition and a pleasure to own. A bit of well engineered nostalgia.
Am I right in thinking it was a Bowkett design?

Yes Tony, they are a Bowkett design.

I only know the trigger units as they were also used on my Bowkett designed Titan Mohawks as well as the Titan pneumatics.




All the best Mick

[greenwayjames]

Bit of a long shot, but I've got a really nice Titan FT rifle. Not sure when it was made but I guess mid 80's to early 90's.

I bought this on a whim a few years back but hardly touched it. I'm now putting it back into service to shoot the UBC benchrest comp at 15yds (max I can go to in the back garden. It's very accurate and seems to be consistent.

But- the trigger is odd, compared to modern designs. It feels 'floppy', has no distinct first stage but it does come to a halt before the second stage which is crisp, albeit very light which I don't like so it doesn't instil much confidence. Back in the day these were highly regarded and I shot next to several people using them to great effect.

Normally I don't have any trouble setting up a trigger, Rekords, T01 and T06 are easy to get just so- but this Titan trigger is weird!

Anyone know anything about them?

You asked the same question on another forum. Here is the answer I got for you from the designer of the Titan Manitou. Perhaps you hadnt seen it

I spoke to John Bowkett who designed the Titan Manitou range of pcps. When the rifle actions were assembled and tested the ones that were more consistent or gave more shots were put in a seperate rack for final assembly as Target versions of the Manitou. They had brass hardware and were fitted as standard with the match trigger. JB altered the leverage inside the trigger box and added one long horizontal spring for the match verson. It was offered as an option for the other models in the Manitou range and when set up is really a very light trigger.
The first thing to do is to remove "creep" by adjusting the sear engagement down to the lowest safe level. This is done using the rear screw and locknut. Once done and the loocknut tightened cock the hammer and bump the rear of the action with the heel of the hand to make sure the trigger has a safe level of engagement.
Final stage is to adjust the front trigger box screw to shorten the first movement of the trigger to suit your taste.
Wobble on the trigger can be removed by drilling and reaming insitu the front trigger pivot to take a 4mm x12 mm long precision dowel. This removes any play. Using shims just disguises the play. Your choice. Hope this info from JB has helped. Much more info and photos on the Facebook John Bowkett official fanpage
El Caro, Yesterday at 8:46 AM

[Tony.T]

You asked the same question on another forum. Here is the answer I got for you from the designer of the Titan Manitou. Perhaps you hadnt seen it

I spoke to John Bowkett who designed the Titan Manitou range of pcps. When the rifle actions were assembled and tested the ones that were more consistent or gave more shots were put in a seperate rack for final assembly as Target versions of the Manitou. They had brass hardware and were fitted as standard with the match trigger. JB altered the leverage inside the trigger box and added one long horizontal spring for the match verson. It was offered as an option for the other models in the Manitou range and when set up is really a very light trigger.
The first thing to do is to remove "creep" by adjusting the sear engagement down to the lowest safe level. This is done using the rear screw and locknut. Once done and the loocknut tightened cock the hammer and bump the rear of the action with the heel of the hand to make sure the trigger has a safe level of engagement.
Final stage is to adjust the front trigger box screw to shorten the first movement of the trigger to suit your taste.
Wobble on the trigger can be removed by drilling and reaming insitu the front trigger pivot to take a 4mm x12 mm long precision dowel. This removes any play. Using shims just disguises the play. Your choice. Hope this info from JB has helped. Much more info and photos on the Facebook John Bowkett official fanpage
El Caro, Yesterday at 8:46 AM

Fantastic- great reply! I think reading that I'll just leave it be. It is very light but safe. The trigger doesn't wobble side to side, but rather the 'first stage' which isn't , just makes the trigger floppy fore and aft. Think I'll just adjust that out as T20 said.

[greenwayjames]

Fantastic- great reply! I think reading that I'll just leave it be. It is very light but safe. The trigger doesn't wobble side to side, but rather the 'first stage' which isn't , just makes the trigger floppy fore and aft. Think I'll just adjust that out as T20 said.

"Final stage is to adjust the front trigger box screw to shorten the first movement of the trigger to suit your taste."

Good idea

[the bish]

Here's a link to the Falcon Manual with trigger adjustment instructions.

https://www.pyramydair.com/airgun-re...fle-manual.pdf