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Thread: BSA Lightning - scope rail removal

  1. #1
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    BSA Lightning - scope rail removal

    3rd lock down project... BSA lightning...with a banana barrel and cracked stock - I wonder how that happened????
    I assume that the scope rail needs to come off before the piston can be retrieved from the cylinder?
    Does any of the knowledgeable throng know the best way to remove it from the cylinder?
    TIA

    Cheers Steve

  2. #2
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    From distant memory..

    Remove the screw that passes through the rail, stand action on a piece of wood with the barrel pointing up. Use a wooden block and mallet to knock the rail down towards the back of the action, it is held on with ‘keyhole’ slots and should move easily.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by lightning22 View Post
    From distant memory..

    Remove the screw that passes through the rail, stand action on a piece of wood with the barrel pointing up. Use a wooden block and mallet to knock the rail down towards the back of the action, it is held on with ‘keyhole’ slots and should move easily.
    Brilliant.....many thanks

    Cheers Steve

  4. #4
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    Plus:
    Push the Rail down on the tube with two clamps and a piece of wood before you attempt to move the rail. The rail is pushed up by the rubber strips, and can be damaged if you dont compress the rubber strips as described.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for this I need refresh the internals on mine.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by evert View Post
    Plus:
    Push the Rail down on the tube with two clamps and a piece of wood before you attempt to move the rail. The rail is pushed up by the rubber strips, and can be damaged if you dont compress the rubber strips as described.
    That stirs the memory, I used to grip it tightly in my hand and knock the rail backwards with a soft faced mallet.

  7. #7
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    The best way I have found to do it without inflicting any damage to the soft aluminium rail is to use a sash clamp. One end against the front of the rail and one end against the end of the cylinder. I put tape on the end against the rail and a block of wood against the cylinder for protection. Then just wind the clamp to press it off. Refitting is the reverse of removal, just add some oil onto the rubber strips to help them slide. Read this tip on here years ago and it has worked well for me on the two or 3 occasions I have had to do it. The maxigrip is a daft unnecessary idea that should be binned imo.
    Plinkerer and Tinkerer

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by maximus View Post
    The best way I have found to do it without inflicting any damage to the soft aluminium rail is to use a sash clamp. One end against the front of the rail and one end against the end of the cylinder. I put tape on the end against the rail and a block of wood against the cylinder for protection. Then just wind the clamp to press it off. Refitting is the reverse of removal, just add some oil onto the rubber strips to help them slide. Read this tip on here years ago and it has worked well for me on the two or 3 occasions I have had to do it. The maxigrip is a daft unnecessary idea that should be binned imo.
    That sounds a well thought out solution -

    I find it strange that the rail is Aluminium ...however, Compared to the Mercury's that I just been working on the internals of the Lightning seems to be of a better - less folded plate - quality.

    Many thanks

    Steve

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