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Thread: What tuning kit have you in your TX200

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by shakeysimon View Post
    It was in a carbine,not sure if it makes a difference,I think the conversion is marmite,It was accurate but harder to get consistent results on an hft course,maybe more hold sensitive? I was at the club Sunday with my full length in a standard stock with a small hamster, shot 77 ex 80 on the hft course,didn't get above 70 with the hc.
    We remove them from full length and carbine in equal number, the only unifying thing is no one wants the original supplier to know and I am always sworn to secrecy. He apparently goes a little weird of people say it isn't perfect.

    Funnily enough, every time this subject comes up on social media it is always the same eight people who say it is the be all and end all. We sell 400-600 kits a month and he only has eight people who have publicly liked this conversion Ever!*


    * I know, if I searched I could maybe find 20

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by shakeysimon View Post
    It was in a carbine,not sure if it makes a difference,I think the conversion is marmite,It was accurate but harder to get consistent results on an hft course,maybe more hold sensitive? I was at the club Sunday with my full length in a standard stock with a small hamster, shot 77 ex 80 on the hft course,didn't get above 70 with the hc.
    Excellent shooting. I use full length TX200's for HFT and also prefer 25mm. Although mine are 84mm stroke 'mk2' pistons.
    I've not actually shot a course for over a year at this point though
    Hopefully going to blackbrook this Friday to dust the cobwebs off, let's hope I can shoot as straight as you

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    Nick,I gave it 3 months of use,off a bench,nice,as a usable gun for the field or competition not so much,I know its all personal but I'm happy with mine in its current guise
    Dan,I think it was more luck than skill,only the 2nd time at my club in over a year,only practice is hammering 2-3 targets at 24 yards in my garden,I expect if it was a a comp with a score card in my hand it would of been a lot lower

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooper_dan View Post
    Excellent shooting. I use full length TX200's for HFT and also prefer 25mm. Although mine are 84mm stroke 'mk2' pistons.
    I've not actually shot a course for over a year at this point though
    Hopefully going to blackbrook this Friday to dust the cobwebs off, let's hope I can shoot as straight as you
    Practice hard, Dan, because Perry's on fire, and there's a new kid on the block at Nomads with an 85mm stroke TX200.

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post
    We remove them from full length and carbine in equal number, the only unifying thing is no one wants the original supplier to know and I am always sworn to secrecy. He apparently goes a little weird of people say it isn't perfect.

    Funnily enough, every time this subject comes up on social media it is always the same eight people who say it is the be all and end all. We sell 400-600 kits a month and he only has eight people who have publicly liked this conversion Ever!*


    * I know, if I searched I could maybe find 20
    I assume these are the "open piston" ones ? Proper full piston 22mm conversions are much nicer; the open ones are too light and go out of alignment with no lateral support.

    Full length TX gives about 0.7 FP more ME than the carbine with the same powerplant. Not loads, but not insignificant either.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    I assume these are the "open piston" ones ? Proper full piston 22mm conversions are much nicer; the open ones are too light and go out of alignment with no lateral support.
    Yep, only the skirtless ones. I still hope to get a decent aluminium one for free some day!

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by tinbum View Post
    Yep, only the skirtless ones. I still hope to get a decent aluminium one for free some day!
    you wont Full piston 22s work properly.

    I have made solid steel, and also steel nose / alli body. 100% ali will be too light also.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    you wont Full piston 22s work properly.

    I have made solid steel, and also steel nose / alli body. 100% ali will be too light also.
    All depends on what stroke , trans port , and how you are sealing them, a steel top hat is handy when setting up ally pistons as well .

  9. #54
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    If done properly a skirtless piston can have zero issues with alignment or support.
    Best example I have seen is the browning airstar. The guide is inset and keyed to the trigger block via a dowel pin and also fastened to the main cylinder.
    The guide is as long as it can be and the rod never becomes disengaged from it. The guide also has a slot cut in that engages with a Woodruff key on the latch rod to prevent rotation.
    Essentially the rear guide does all the supporting and alignment that a full body piston would do.

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooper_dan View Post
    If done properly a skirtless piston can have zero issues with alignment or support.
    Best example I have seen is the browning airstar. The guide is inset and keyed to the trigger block via a dowel pin and also fastened to the main cylinder.
    The guide is as long as it can be and the rod never becomes disengaged from it. The guide also has a slot cut in that engages with a Woodruff key on the latch rod to prevent rotation.
    Essentially the rear guide does all the supporting and alignment that a full body piston would do.
    yup, absolutely Dan... but that's not done on the TX conversions we're talking. The rear guide can be used for support via the rod, but itself needs to be rock solid, not free to move inb the block. Also the rod's themselves will flex a little laterally, allowing a little piston "rock", which doesn't help sealing.

    But the real point here is that there is no reason. the optimum weight for a 22mm piston setup with say 90mm stroke is in the 140g-170g range. Nick likes lighter end, I like heavier, but that's the range. It's entirely possible to make a full piston and come into that weight range, so why give up the benefits of increased support, spring damping, alignment, lubricant retention, etc ? Doesn't make sense to me... only reason I can see is that it's cheaper / easier to make the piston - which is not a good reason IMHO.

    Now Dan, please don't tell me you've buggered up your recoiless springer by skimping on the pistons !??!
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  11. #56
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    Haha yes I have (kind of)
    My pistons aren't like anything else that I've seen (due to the requirement for a gear rack). Look at the Diana Giss guns and how small the springs are to fit inside the gears. Adding gears is a PITA

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooper_dan View Post
    Haha yes I have (kind of)
    My pistons aren't like anything else that I've seen (due to the requirement for a gear rack). Look at the Diana Giss guns and how small the springs are to fit inside the gears. Adding gears is a PITA
    yeah, but the rack adds a bunch of support..... and certainly the giss guns are pretty skinny springs - and looooong....
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    yup, absolutely Dan... but that's not done on the TX conversions we're talking. The rear guide can be used for support via the rod, but itself needs to be rock solid, not free to move inb the block. Also the rod's themselves will flex a little laterally, allowing a little piston "rock", which doesn't help sealing.

    But the real point here is that there is no reason. the optimum weight for a 22mm piston setup with say 90mm stroke is in the 140g-170g range. Nick likes lighter end, I like heavier, but that's the range. It's entirely possible to make a full piston and come into that weight range, so why give up the benefits of increased support, spring damping, alignment, lubricant retention, etc ? Doesn't make sense to me... only reason I can see is that it's cheaper / easier to make the piston - which is not a good reason IMHO.

    Now Dan, please don't tell me you've buggered up your recoiless springer by skimping on the pistons !??!
    It's cos its a massive faff trying to find a spring that will a/ fit and b/ last in a sub 22mm od skirted piston .

    using the guide and latch rod to prevent the piston rocking ? .......yeh ...good luck with that one

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by hmangphilly View Post
    It's cos its a massive faff trying to find a spring that will a/ fit and b/ last in a sub 22mm od skirted piston .

    using the guide and latch rod to prevent the piston rocking ? .......yeh ...good luck with that one
    Anschutz made one of the best springers going with a skirtless piston and using the latch rod for support. Its not that hard if the tolerances/design/build quality are done right

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by cooper_dan View Post
    Anschutz made one of the best springers going with a skirtless piston and using the latch rod for support. Its not that hard if the tolerances/design/build quality are done right
    Yeah my 1970's 250 had a skirtless 22mm piston and it was bloody brilliant!

    You can imagine my shock when it was invented forty years later!

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