The first skirtless one I did successfully, was in a 77 I did, ( a few will have shot that at the Springer bash's)that had a fixed guide to support the latch rod as Dan mentioned, however the guide added a lot of friction and I ended up with a short bronze bush in either end that helped . It works in the 77 because the trigger block is accurately screw cut and concentric. Try it in the tx ( I have ) and the trigger block has too much clearance in the action, once the retaining bolt is tightened it pulls the block and the guide out of line by enough to lock the piston, I ended up buttoning the trigger block and machining it concentric to the guide to make it a good fit , a lot of work for a piston that once it's long enough to make the weight robs too much spring room, I really tried to make it work ( this was all before the kits mentioned by tinners came about) so it's full pistons all the way for me, Though as Phill says it makes spring choice difficult.
Its only the outside diameter that causes the problem , but not a problem if you use the od to locate the guide , and make the guide bore clearance , oh yes like aa do , full piston the way to go of course , but spring supply is drying up for 21mm, might have to go to 22mm,
On another note ,I am fiddling with a 24mm tune for the tx on the same lines as JB'S 80 tune , steel piston 97 spring etc , but with the magic piston ring , its making a whole fpe more at the same spec as my o ring at the moment so encouraging.
Its only the outside diameter that causes the problem , but not a problem if you use the od to locate the guide , and make the guide bore clearance , oh yes like aa do , full piston the way to go of course , but spring supply is drying up for 21mm, might have to go to 22mm,
On another note ,I am fiddling with a 24mm tune for the tx on the same lines as JB'S 80 tune , steel piston 97 spring etc , but with the magic piston ring , its making a whole fpe more at the same spec as my o ring at the moment so encouraging.
23mm works great on the TX too, as you can just use the stock piston and turn it down a bit - obvously this also applies to 24 but clearly not to a 22 ! Wall thickness means 24 on a tx means using your custom comp tube, but 23mm is (cheaply) sleevable...
Using the factory piston saves a load of work, and spring choice is huge - the stock mk3 spring should work fine in fact. If you wanted to be ultra lazy, you could even leave the mk3 piston rod. With the new piston head, you'll shave a few mm off the factory 98mm stroke. Obviously less would be better, but it'll still shoot way better than even a mk2 (25mm x 83), never mind a mk3. All you need is the sleave and a new seal / oring head. CHEAP TUNES R US
Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.
My 24 mm is a home made tube ,from 30 X 24 seamless tube, it's got a revised breech arrangement, with 3 mm trans port, a modded tx piston body with an ally nose to carry the unobtonium piston ring, 80 mm stroke no idea of piston weight , Hw 97 spring with 15 mm preload, 11.3fpe with 8.4 & 11.4 fpe with 7.9, feels very nice so it's in a target stock ready to test at the range tomorrow 🤞
So shot it today on a field target course, very nice shot cycle, can see the pellets land and accurate,( that's down to the barrel) liked it .
Then shot my 21 mm target gun , and like night and day easier cocking less sight picture movement and recoil, hit more targets, just easier to shoot accurately. So the 24 mm while very good will stay on the subs bench , keep trying but can't better the 21 mm . Next up I have a spare 21 set up been experimenting with shortened the stroke till the power drops off, then tune the piston weight and port to suit , see what that's like all good fun 🙄