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Thread: A couple of different approaches to achieve the same goal

  1. #1
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    A couple of different approaches to achieve the same goal

    I've just put together a project Beeman R1 in .22" calibre. At this stage, the internals are pretty standard apart from the spring, as I've dropped in a 14.5mm i/d spring with a bit more pre-load. Currently running at full stroke length, she's at 11.7ft/lb with FAP, but a bit harsh on cycle. The problem lies, I think, with the transfer port; measured at 4mm. I'm not sure if this was US spec' or if someone had previously tweaked it up. So, I'm thinking of a tp reduction to 3mm. Do I:

    A) drill out the tp and tap it to add a drilled out grub screw and glue it in? I've done this before with an HW80 with good results.

    B) get a sleeve made and drift it into the existing tp?

  2. #2
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    Think I would be inclined to make a brass threaded sleeve and glue that in.

    A bit in between.
    Repariere nicht, was nicht kaputtist.

  3. #3
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    You don't need to thread it. Close fitting and thread lock will be fine as they don't really get much force on them. You want the cylinder side to have a bit of a curve into the hole and the barrel side to be square (or slightly proud of the face of the breech.

  4. #4
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    Full power HW80's have smaller ports than 4mm.
    Could the 4mm port be an attempt at reducing bounce in a 12fpe gun?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by evert View Post
    Full power HW80's have smaller ports than 4mm.
    Could the 4mm port be an attempt at reducing bounce in a 12fpe gun?
    Possibly, but as the rifle came in pieces, without a barrel, I can't say. The piston had been lightened

  6. #6
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    I've used brass tube and red thread locker on a Diana 35 transfer port and I worked well.


    Ora

  7. #7
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    yeah, as BB said the forces relative to the area for glueing are very low.. so make the brass sleeve a tight fit and glue / loctite it in. Just be sure to degrease thoroughly first.

    I'd go with 3.0 - 3.2 - I've just reamed my 80 TP to 3.1 and it shoots very nice at 11 fp - but this is going to be running near 16 when I export it. 4mm is too big for any power level.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    yeah, as BB said the forces relative to the area for glueing are very low.. so make the brass sleeve a tight fit and glue / loctite it in. Just be sure to degrease thoroughly first.

    I'd go with 3.0 - 3.2 - I've just reamed my 80 TP to 3.1 and it shoots very nice at 11 fp - but this is going to be running near 16 when I export it. 4mm is too big for any power level.
    Just sourced some 0.5mm wall thickness brass tube at 4.0mm outer diameter, so once it arrives, I should (in theory) have a pretty straightforward task.

  9. #9
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    Yes thats the wonderful things about theroies. Often let down by reality
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  10. #10
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    I sleeve and glue them, don't bank on the 4 mm hole being a very good one, I tend to open them up with a ream and make a sleeve to suit, as mentioned 4 mm way too big , had a 97 comp tube with a 4 mm port last week, I sleeve them back to standard 2.8 and go from there.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steyr View Post
    Yes thats the wonderful things about theroies. Often let down by reality
    It's a bit like the Harry Carpenter kiss of death (anyone who remembers Frank Bruno's fights will "know what I mean Harry ")

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