drill a hole after the crack so it doesnt go elsewhere
Does anyone on here get a bit deeper involved in the repair of standards, as I need a CS re-cylindering or repaired where it has cracked on the cylinder just in front of the trigger.
I might have a go myself but I am short of time at the moment, finishing my new build house for one thing and working a 50 hour week on top.
Obviously it it will probably need a cylinder from a bitted parts one with the same length cylinder.
I think if I remember correctly the cylinder is soldered to the tap/barrel?
Any help or suggestions would be gratefully accepted. I am a mechy engineer with my own lathe, so could do it when I have a bit more time, but its annoying me that its sat there not really being able to use it. It has already been reblued (not by me) so I dont mind about patina or finish on this one.
BASC
drill a hole after the crack so it doesnt go elsewhere
It already has gone elsewhere, It is not a straight line crack.
It has cracked in a T shape when I have just looked again. It comes from between the trigger guard screws and splits out both ways for about 6 or 8mm
It has been used with the trigger block properly tightened, and the stress cocking it with the trigger block into the cylinder loose has eventually broken the cylinder
It was like this when I bought it and I didnt notice it. I felt it was a bit loose and presumed the stock bolt needed tightening up so I didnt worry much about it.
Last edited by DEAN C.; 10-06-2021 at 07:11 PM.
BASC
Weld it and be prepared to clean out any over penetration in the lathe. If it's a big lathe you can mount it with the barrel up the spindle bore. Four jaw will be essential for perfect concentricity. If the machine isn't big enough , unsolder and detach the cylinder and use the fixed steady.
Or get hold of that replacement cylinder. It's not a five minute job whichever way you go at it.
Atb Mark