Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Rust bluing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Dorset
    Posts
    2,871

    Rust bluing

    I have a few questions regarding rust bluing

    Is slow bluing better for overall finish when using Hydrochloric acid

    Does the vessel for boiling the parts need to to be stainless steel

    Are there any other solutions used for quick blue other than Hydrogen peroxide

    And what is the best way to plug a barrel prior to starting the process

    Thanks in advance of any replies

    Atb

    HW55T
    Hw77+7

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Luton
    Posts
    433
    Quote Originally Posted by HW55T View Post
    I have a few questions regarding rust bluing

    Is slow bluing better for overall finish when using Hydrochloric acid

    Does the vessel for boiling the parts need to to be stainless steel

    Are there any other solutions used for quick blue other than Hydrogen peroxide

    And what is the best way to plug a barrel prior to starting the process

    Thanks in advance of any replies

    Atb

    HW55T
    Mark Lee express rust blueing solution as sold by brownells uk, I’ve had great results with this stuff
    Follow the instructions to the letter you won’t go wrong. A length of 50mm plastic waste pipe sealed at one end place the treated items in it, boil a kettle of rain water pour it into the pipe making sure everything is covered & leave for 5mins, do this after every application works a treat, I would put some pics up but I don’t know how!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Anglesey/holyhead
    Posts
    1,585

    Rust bluing

    Mick, (T 20) on here,wrote a good guide,I can't find the link sorry.maybe contact Mick.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Quigley Hollow, Nuneaton
    Posts
    17,112
    Quote Originally Posted by wil95k View Post
    Mick, (T 20) on here,wrote a good guide,I can't find the link sorry.maybe contact Mick.
    Thankyou sir but I was working from your guide.

    Here's the thread but unfortunately the photobucket links don't seem to work :-

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....13#post5002013



    All the best Mick

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Notts.
    Posts
    4,215

    Rust bluing

    Hi I use Blacknells solution works well. I do use a stainless boiling tank and boil in de ionized water. Dont know if a stainless tank is essential, I would think not they were rust bluing long before stainless was invented, I plug barrels with long threaded rod with lab bungs on each end held in place with nuts and washers. No need to polish with anything finer than 320 grit. De greasing is my mail hurdle
    Best of luck
    ALL MHO of course.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Taunton
    Posts
    9,128
    Quote Originally Posted by HW55T View Post
    I have a few questions regarding rust bluing

    Is slow bluing better for overall finish when using Hydrochloric acid

    Does the vessel for boiling the parts need to to be stainless steel

    Are there any other solutions used for quick blue other than Hydrogen peroxide

    And what is the best way to plug a barrel prior to starting the process

    Thanks in advance of any replies

    Atb

    HW55T
    You need to be careful with the acid when you are fume bluing, too strong or left too long you will etch the surface and could pit it.

    The vessel doesn’t need to be stainless, I welded one up from mild sheet years ago and have used it many times. It’s replacement now I’ve tired of scrubbing the rust off it every time it gets dragged out, is a 24” stainless fish kettle bought for not very much on the auction site.

    There are various solutions out there and plenty of recipes on the net, I use one I mixed up years ago from one of these recipes.

    I don’t plug my barrels and I’ve never caused a problem yet, if I was I’d hammer in a dowel at each end and notch them for the suspension wires.

    Rain water is good for this, you can also used the condensate from your dehumidifier.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    durham
    Posts
    1,193
    I use a steam tank (plastic pipe) after rusting, ten minutes all done, using a wall paper steamer, never plugged the barrel had no problems cleaning with a pull through, have used brick cleaner to rust had good results.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Luton
    Posts
    433
    Quote Originally Posted by lightning22 View Post
    You need to be careful with the acid when you are fume bluing, too strong or left too long you will etch the surface and could pit it.

    The vessel doesn’t need to be stainless, I welded one up from mild sheet years ago and have used it many times. It’s replacement now I’ve tired of scrubbing the rust off it every time it gets dragged out, is a 24” stainless fish kettle bought for not very much on the auction site.

    There are various solutions out there and plenty of recipes on the net, I use one I mixed up years ago from one of these recipes.

    I don’t plug my barrels and I’ve never caused a problem yet, if I was I’d hammer in a dowel at each end and notch them for the suspension wires.

    Rain water is good for this, you can also used the condensate from your dehumidifier.
    As above, I use rain water & I never plug barrels, I just blow every part including inside the barrel with the airline after boiling
    Regards Graham

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Bordon Hants
    Posts
    650
    I done a P14 rifle which were rust blued before hot blueing which came out in the mid 1930s. I used Sal ammoniac
    which was recipe for Enfield rifles at the time. I polished and degreased the parts and applied the solution on a swab stick and let the part rust no longer than 24 hours or when the part was rust orange. Then boiled in a stainless tank or pot, personally i dont think this mattered as they used iron tanks years ago, a stainless one lasts longer. Boil part for 20 minutes till black and card off but wear cotton gloves, ten rust again, applying the solution, rust the boil and card about 5 or 6 times or more and you will find the part becomes a dull grey after the last card. Then oil and just like magic the part will turn this blue black or black, depending on the rust formula used.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •