Stripping my s/h 0.22 Remington Express Compact

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Right, following my successful tuning of the HW35k with a great deal of assistance from folks on here I decided to tackle a strip down of the s/h Remington Express Compact that I bought on a whim from Guntrader during lockdown last year.

I’d had a couple of short sessions with it when I got it and although the cocking seemed quite heavy, the twang wasn’t too bad and it seemed quite accurate out to 30yrds.

Anyway, having done as much as I wanted on the 35 I started stripping the REC down. I wasn’t sure how to remove the trigger mechanism which is integral with the cylinder end plug so I did a search on here and found that shed tuner had done a strip down a few years back and described in detail how to remove the safety pin which is the first thing to do before removing the pins hold the trigger block/spring plug.

It’s a fiddly job and really needs 3 hands but after about 20mins I’d got it out and used a spring compressor ( sash clamp ) to release the spring.

There was a fair bit of preload but the most shocking thing was the complete and utter absence of any grease of any sort on all of the moving parts

The spring was so clean and grease free I had nothing on my hands at all, the cylinder was grease free and dry, as was the piston, ptfe spring guide and metal spring outer guide, there was no sign of any lubrication in the trigger mechanism either - un-bloody-believable !!!

Further examination of the breech axis pin, cocking shoe, breech pivot washers etc were all completely dry as well.

I’m finding it hard to believe that Remington or whoever makes them for them assembled it like this and with an unknown history I can only assume a previous owner had been tinkering

The spring ends were properly collapsed but could do with a bit of smoothing and polishing as could the piston where it rubs on the cylinder.
I will probably replace the breech seal as it’s quite flattened and although the parachute type piston seal looks ok, it would make sense to replace that as well.

Im hoping someone may know how many coils the spring should have ( this ones got 28 and the wire gauge is 3mm ), in case this has been swopped out ?
Hopefully this should be a relatively simple tune up with mainly a good grease up and a bit of polishing being the main things.

I did run some FAP’s through it before the dismantle and it was averaging 11ftlbs Previously when I first got it I’d set it up with JSB Exacts and it was running around 10.5

I’ll update this thread as I get it sorted but as with the 35 thread, if anyone’s got any comments, advice or do’s/don’ts I’d be very grateful.

Cheers,
Norm

[TonyL]

Ah, just spotted that you've now started with the fettle and have successfully stripped the beast, Norm. By the sounds of it re surface finishes / lack of lubrication, just some TLC, polishing and sensible lubrication should transform the manners no end, as you have said. What's the guide to spring fit like and does it have a top hat?

[rapidresponse1]

good luck with it norm

[evert]

Most springers are self-destructing the way they come from the factory.
A proper de-burr, some polishing, adjustments and good lubrication can often improve them a lot without costing anything but your time and a few smears of grease.

Check the seals for any damage before you reassemble the rifle.
Tonys implied advice of adding a tophat is a good idea too.

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

Ah, just spotted that you've now started with the fettle and have successfully stripped the beast, Norm. By the sounds of it re surface finishes / lack of lubrication, just some TLC, polishing and sensible lubrication should transform the manners no end, as you have said. What's the guide to spring fit like and does it have a top hat?

The inner spring guide is a decent length but is hollow and quite a loose fit in the spring. Where the spring goes into the piston there’s an outer thin metal tube with a thin flange at the piston end. There’s no top hat and the spring sits on a raised piece which is built into the piston. ( I’ll do a picture !! )
I’ve got some ptfe rod so I can make a top hat but it won’t be as straight forward as normal because of the outer metal sheath and the shape of the inside end of the piston.

Most springers are self-destructing the way they come from the factory.
A proper de-burr, some polishing, adjustments and good lubrication can often improve them a lot without costing anything but your time and a few smears of grease.

Check the seals for any damage before you reassemble the rifle.
Tonys implied advice of adding a tophat is a good idea too.

Yes, I’m replacing both the piston seal and the breech seal ( which doesn’t seem to be available on the chambers site ? )but checking back through old threads it’s a rubber O ring 8.5mm OD with 2.5mm wall thickness, and I’ve got two big boxes of O rings so hopefully I can find the right one.

I still can’t get my head around the complete lack of even the tiniest bit of grease, especially on the spring ! I was looking at it again last night and it’s like it’s been cleaned in solvent then never degreased

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

good luck with it norm

Thanks

[loiner1965]

look forward in following this thread norm

[Mr.Fixit-Norm]

look forward in following this thread norm

I’ll do my best to make it as interesting and as factual as I can, I was amazed at the views and number of threads on the HW one, mind you a lot of them were mine

It won’t be a review as such just what I encounter whilst doing it, how I sort it and what the testing and outcome is, along with hopefully suggestions and input from anyone else
As I’ve found out on the other thread, it’s very important not to be too blinkered when pellet testing ! ( Oh, and try and remember to thank the correct people for the information you get )

I’m always willing to learn, I sometimes think that no matter how much you know you can always learn something new and sometimes a different way to do something