Feinwerkbau 150 sledge issues

[Mr Bob]

Firstly, I apologise as I know this issue must have been well covered in the past, But I am struggling to find the information. ( I have seen it in the past, but can't track it down).
My150 (1964-65) is having sledge issues, not sledging, and I require photographs or at least better diagrams than Feinwerkbau's exploded ones( which are great fro ordering parts).
Is there an easy way to get some grease onto the thrust plate /sledging guide or is it a case of strip it and see.
I don't normally delve into the guts of an air rifle as my eyes are not what they used to be, close up work and fine margins are now well past me!
Any help at all would be appreciated.
In anticipation, cheers. Bob

[ptdunk]

Firstly, I apologise as I know this issue must have been well covered in the past, But I am struggling to find the information. ( I have seen it in the past, but can't track it down).
My150 (1964-65) is having sledge issues, not sledging, and I require photographs or at least better diagrams than Feinwerkbau's exploded ones( which are great fro ordering parts).
Is there an easy way to get some grease onto the thrust plate /sledging guide or is it a case of strip it and see.
I don't normally delve into the guts of an air rifle as my eyes are not what they used to be, close up work and fine margins are now well past me!
Any help at all would be appreciated.
In anticipation, cheers. Bob

Should be pretty much the same as the 300.

You can get to the sliders pretty easily, without taking the trigger unit etc off.

https://youtu.be/ZZimsjdXWuA

I would just remove and clean the slider pins etc and then reassemble.

Cheers,
Matt

[mikec4]

This page;
Download area | Feinwerkbau GmbH

has links to spare parts, exploded drawings etc.

If you right click it should offer a "translate into English " option.

There is a link to exploded drawings of the 150 on there.

I found FWB helpful when I asked for dates of manufacture relative to serial numbers etc.

Hope this helps

Mike.

[Mr Bob]

Should be pretty much the same as the 300.

You can get to the sliders pretty easily, without taking the trigger unit etc off.

https://youtu.be/ZZimsjdXWuA

I would just remove and clean the slider pins etc and then reassemble.

Cheers,
Matt

Thanks Matt,It looks like I can get to at least the rear pin without too much trouble, the front pins are looking doable as well, can't believe I missed that video!!

[Mr Bob]

This page;
Download area | Feinwerkbau GmbH

has links to spare parts, exploded drawings etc.

If you right click it should offer a "translate into English " option.

There is a link to exploded drawings of the 150 on there.

I found FWB helpful when I asked for dates of manufacture relative to serial numbers etc.

Hope this helps

Mike.

I have had a look at those diagrams before Mike,I was hopeing for a better view, but you are right, Feinwerkbau are good with their data bases.
Thanks for the reply.

Bob

[Mr Pusk]

I'm no expert, but a few months back I stripped and cleaned my 150 shortly after doing my 300, and managed to get it back together again. If you take the action out of the stock you may well be able to identify the problem without any further disassembly. If you need to go further, then if you can find some instructions for the 300, the 150 is basically similar, but it took me hours longer to do than the 300 and there was a lot of trial and error. I used Q. Cobham's book as my basic guide.

I found that there were at least three things that had to be put back together just so in order for the thing to work. A and B in my list seemed to be concerned with cocking it, and C was necessary in order for the recoil sledge to work, so that might be your problem. When refitting the trigger block to the rear sliding block, you need to press down on something in the trigger block which otherwise stops the sliding block from going fully backwards. It is easy to do with a small screwdriver from the side. Perhaps this has worked loose and has jammed it?

If you get into difficulties and find yourself with a half-cocked rifle (as I did, several times), turn the rifle over and you can see the ratchet under the trigger block. If you take off the pressure on the pawl by pulling backwards on the lever, and hold it with your elbow, it is possible to press (with a small screwdriver) on the flat surface at the back of the pawl to disengage it, and you can then let the lever down gently. You really need three hands for this and you don't want to chop anything off or bang yourself with it so be careful!

[Mr Bob]

I'm no expert, but a few months back I stripped and cleaned my 150 shortly after doing my 300, and managed to get it back together again. If you take the action out of the stock you may well be able to identify the problem without any further disassembly. If you need to go further, then if you can find some instructions for the 300, the 150 is basically similar, but it took me hours longer to do than the 300 and there was a lot of trial and error. I used Q. Cobham's book as my basic guide.

I found that there were at least three things that had to be put back together just so in order for the thing to work. A and B in my list seemed to be concerned with cocking it, and C was necessary in order for the recoil sledge to work, so that might be your problem. When refitting the trigger block to the rear sliding block, you need to press down on something in the trigger block which otherwise stops the sliding block from going fully backwards. It is easy to do with a small screwdriver from the side. Perhaps this has worked loose and has jammed it?

If you get into difficulties and find yourself with a half-cocked rifle (as I did, several times), turn the rifle over and you can see the ratchet under the trigger block. If you take off the pressure on the pawl by pulling backwards on the lever, and hold it with your elbow, it is possible to press (with a small screwdriver) on the flat surface at the back of the pawl to disengage it, and you can then let the lever down gently. You really need three hands for this and you don't want to chop anything off or bang yourself with it so be careful!

It's a frustration, I should realy get down to stripping it to basics and rebuild, I already have a small parts list, like the trigger guard is off a 300 ( I think) , it fits but does not follow the counters of the stock perfectly, and the rear stock retaining bolt is longer than normal due to the trigger guard.Cosmetically the gun is in good fettle, it just needs a little tlc to bring it into the very nice example range.