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Thread: BSA Airsporter club .177 Piston help please

  1. #1
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    BSA Airsporter club .177 Piston help please

    Hi,

    I have set myself a challenge and am trying to return a very abused Airsporter club back to working order. The gun has had a hard life (the stock was in two pieces when I got it, with a wire wrap on the wrist) and has had a lot of remedial work done, of varying quality, over the years. I am pretty sure I can repair the stock, although she will never be pretty! Below are some before pictures for any who is interested!

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fPx...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UOk...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ud5...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TVH...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TGn...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TK4...ew?usp=sharing


    Here comes the request for help. Ive stripped the rifle down and started on the stock, which is fine. However the bit i'm concerned about is the piston. The conical head on it is cracked and broken with a protruding screw. It is definately going to need to be replaced along with teh washer. I have had a quick look on John Nibbs site, Chambers and Protek and can find replacement washers but can't find the conical part of the piston for sale. Are these available? Is the one for the club the same as the Airsporter MK1? Any easy way to make one if not?

    Any and all help appreciated!

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9m...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T3d...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T-K...ew?usp=sharing
    Last edited by Coralus; 25-07-2021 at 11:07 AM. Reason: pictures

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coralus View Post
    Hi,

    I have set myself a challenge and am trying to return a very abused Airsporter club back to working order. The gun has had a hard life (the stock was in two pieces when I got it, with a wire wrap on the wrist) and has had a lot of remedial work done, of varying quality, over the years. I am pretty sure I can repair the stock, although she will never be pretty! Below are some before pictures for any who is interested!

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fPx...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UOk...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ud5...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TVH...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TGn...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TK4...ew?usp=sharing


    Here comes the request for help. Ive stripped the rifle down and started on the stock, which is fine. However the bit i'm concerned about is the piston. The conical head on it is cracked and broken with a protruding screw. It is definately going to need to be replaced along with teh washer. I have had a quick look on John Nibbs site, Chambers and Protek and can find replacement washers but can't find the conical part of the piston for sale. Are these available? Is the one for the club the same as the Airsporter MK1? Any easy way to make one if not?

    Any and all help appreciated!

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T9m...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T3d...ew?usp=sharing

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T-K...ew?usp=sharing
    From what I see of the stock, it's split where lots do. Could be more time economical to find a replacement as a better base to begin from.

    As for the piston, it simply looks like the seals have disintegrated with age and need replacing. Other than being dirty, the actual piston looks fine. Take all the seal components apart and then piece them together off the piston, this will give you a better idea of what's what.

    Perhaps this video may help:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yeZ...=CharlieTango1

  3. #3
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    I'm wondering if that's a non original delrin conical nose section someone has made up ? Not a bad idea, but making up a delrin or ali replacement makes sense.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    I'm wondering if that's a non original delrin conical nose section someone has made up ? Not a bad idea, but making up a delrin or ali replacement makes sense.
    Take a look at this on .

    It looks like the main part you're missing except yours was originally red and has split into 2 pieces.

    Spacer washers are also readily available on , just search BSA Airsporter

    https://www./itm/184958506782?hash=i...8AAOSw~u5gmqhw

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by micol1212 View Post
    From what I see of the stock, it's split where lots do. Could be more time economical to find a replacement as a better base to begin from.
    Yeah, there is sense in that but I have far more time than money at the moment so will attempt a repair and keep an eye out for a replacement stock.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by micol1212 View Post
    Take a look at this on .

    It looks like the main part you're missing except yours was originally red and has split into 2 pieces.

    Spacer washers are also readily available on , just search BSA Airsporter

    https://www./itm/184958506782?hash=i...8AAOSw~u5gmqhw
    the board seems to have sensored your post and that link doesnt resolve? Ill have alook on teh auction site and see if I can find it but it would be good to see teh picture and links you are trying to post.

    Thanks for the help all

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    I'm wondering if that's a non original delrin conical nose section someone has made up ? Not a bad idea, but making up a delrin or ali replacement makes sense.
    Yep, id be up for that but dont have a good condition original part to take measurements from. Does anyone have measurements and diagrams?

  8. #8
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    That looks like a right old bodge. :-

    image.jpg


    Someone has machined the conical section off the front of the latch rod and then drilled and tapped the threaded section of the latch rod to take the retaining screw for the seal.
    The outcome of this modification will be a very nasty firing cycle because with the cone removed the static compression ratio of the gun will be very low.

    I'm not up on Clubs but I gather they came in two different strokes ?

    If your Club has the same stroke as a .22" MK1 Airsporter then someone may possibly have a used latchrod in their spares box which would solve your problem.
    And again if your Club has the same stroke as a MK1 .22" Airspoter then a MK2 piston would also drop in and be an option to repair your gun.

    Another idea would be to machine up a new conical head with a corresponding internal thread to the seal retaining screw shown in the rear and then screw the head onto the latchrod using a stud.




    All the best Mick
    Last edited by T 20; 25-07-2021 at 09:26 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Another idea would be to machine up a new conical head with a corresponding internal thread to the seal retaining screw shown in the rear and then screw the head onto the latchrod using a stud.

    All the best Mick
    yeah, that gets my vote too. Should be fine in ali with a long stud to get plenty of thread engagement.
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  10. #10
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    Thanks both, that clarifies the problem and gives me some options for a solution. I like the idea of machining the cone with an integral threaded stud to attach it to the latch rod. I have access to a lathe so it's doable. The only issue is getting dimensions for the cone without having access to an original latch rod.

    Can anyone here supply these dimensions and, ideally, the stroke length of an airsporter mk 1 so that I can check that route out too? I greatly appreciate the assistance. If I can get this cycling somewhat correctly it will be worth addressing the cosmetic damage to affect a full repair. Otherwise it's a non-starter.

    Thanks again

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coralus View Post
    Thanks both, that clarifies the problem and gives me some options for a solution. I like the idea of machining the cone with an integral threaded stud to attach it to the latch rod. I have access to a lathe so it's doable. The only issue is getting dimensions for the cone without having access to an original latch rod.

    Can anyone here supply these dimensions and, ideally, the stroke length of an airsporter mk 1 so that I can check that route out too? I greatly appreciate the assistance. If I can get this cycling somewhat correctly it will be worth addressing the cosmetic damage to affect a full repair. Otherwise it's a non-starter.

    Thanks again
    I shall see if I can borrow a friend's spare Airsporter MK1 latchrod to get the dimensions you need, though I won't see him until the weekend, so bear with me.




    All the best Mick

  12. #12
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    I shall see if I can borrow a friend's spare Airsporter MK1 latchrod to get the dimensions you need, though I won't see him until the weekend, so bear with me.
    All the best Mick
    Much appreciated Mick

  13. #13
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    Now this is most likely a daft idea but : if the issue is finding the measurements / profile of the conical seal, could something like the stuff dentists use to make mouldings of teeth be used? Is there something model makers use to create rubber moulds that could be added to the cylinder and pulled out when set?
    Just daft thoughts ...
    Cheers, Phil

  14. #14
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    The .177 Club has a 2.4" piston stroke and the .22 Airsporter's stroke is 2.8" so piston unit/latch-rod dimensions may also differ between the two models.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    Now this is most likely a daft idea but : if the issue is finding the measurements / profile of the conical seal, could something like the stuff dentists use to make mouldings of teeth be used? Is there something model makers use to create rubber moulds that could be added to the cylinder and pulled out when set?
    Just daft thoughts ...
    Cheers, Phil
    I've used car body filler to do that , Phil, with a brazing rod embedded in it to make pulling it out easier.

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