Weihrauch help/advise required (35's)

[T 20]

I've long had a project HW35 that I should finally get on with, the gun which is working, has a super rusty barrel & cylinder so badly pitted that if it would restore would surely cost far too much so I want to put all the working parts into a new cylinder with new barrel, servicing as I go of course.
It will be a Triggers broom but I was always intent on doing this.

I already had a cylinder (a KLS limited edition mentioned in another post recently) so I will need a barrel (Chambers £87 +vat but post to RFD of course).
Before I even start I see a difference at the safety button area, the old cylinder has a difference to the replacement one.
The difference is that there is another hole on the right of the cylinder and it's not like that on the old one, see picture where marked O & X.
This is where the button protrudes to the right side of the gun (as on my Export model) a change to that of early versions obviously, so my wreck must be much older, I wonder how old? serial 708755.
My main question therefore is will my safety button swap over (I haven't dismantled it yet) or will I need different parts and also what other issues may arise?

Visually and dimensionally I see no other problems.

I've never worked on a HW either so any pointers?


https://imgur.com/gallery/cqIY77U

TIA Steve

Hi Steve.

I'd use the KLS cylinder as the single sided safety cylinders come from the period when the cylinder brazing was a bit dubious --- all your components will fit the KLS cylinder.
I'd also be fitting a later piston with synthetic seal and longer stroke rather than using the original leather sealed piston.

If you put a wanted ad on here for a barrel etc, you may get lucky as many folks seem to have 35 parts kicking around.



All the best Mick

[stevegv8]

Hi Steve.

I'd use the KLS cylinder as the single sided safety cylinders come from the period when the cylinder brazing was a bit dubious --- all your components will fit the KLS cylinder.
I'd also be fitting a later piston with synthetic seal and longer stroke rather than using the original leather sealed piston.

If you put a wanted ad on here for a barrel etc, you may get lucky as many folks seem to have 35 parts kicking around.



All the best Mick

Thanks Mick, re the piston, exactly what items would I need and where to get them without having to go via RFD's? Will the existing cocking link work with it for instance?

Thanks

Steve

[stevegv8]

Great info and help so far guys,

Thanks

Steve

[stevegv8]

I found time today to try and finish putting it together, can't imagine what I might have done wrong/if I done wrong but it's stiffer to cock than my 35E (longer barrel though so that might make the E feel easier) and also although it latches it kind of feels like only just, again not quite as with my 35E, feels like the notch in the rod could do with being another millimetre nearer the trigger unit.
I adjusted the trigger either side of how it started when it was in the old cylinder with the old piston but set it back to how it was before for now which feels nice.

It's got to bed in no doubt but I have loaded it up and given it a few good thumps too test if the sear would let off but no issues found.
I will cycle it a few dozen times and see how it goes.

The trigger guard isn't brass, I sand blasted the badly scratched black off and sprayed it gold hammerite seeing as there is gold lettering on the cylinder.

I put an old scope on for looks as I will scope it and leave the standard sights off (with a stock and trigger unit I just about have enough parts to resurrect the donor gun)!

Pretty sure I'll need to source a nicer stock next and might consider a silencer if anyone can suggest one that goes straight on with no modifications needed.

https://imgur.com/gallery/5VpjAcZ

[maximus]

Hi, if its only just latching and difficult to cock the spring could be becoming coil bound now as it looks like you have added a chambers top hat and guide. Might need a coil off the spring to resolve. Regards Max

[landymick]

Another thing to look at is the thickness of the guide base , often Chambers guides are too thick .

[stevegv8]

A little disappointing they didn't mention things like spring length etc considering it was a telephone order with some extended discussion.
He did mention when I said I was replacing the old leather washer type piston set up that he was glad I said so as he would need to machine an adjustment but I've no idea what that involved.
The new guide and top hat didn't seem to be tight at all but due to their end thickness the original spring must be compressed a little more than it used to be no doubt.
Again in my naivety I assumed I was ordering a standard replacement spring. I abandoned the new and stuck with the old as it needed at least 2 inches off (random guess) before trying then another coil, another coil etc etc.
Cutting, heating, forming, and grinding one coil at a time would get me down I'm afraid and I wanted to avoid that, I don't have a chrono either to see where it would be at each chop, just wanted a smooth action with safe power.
I could go back to the old guide and no top hat just to compare latch up as an experiment to help decide if the new ones are playing a part.
I suppose I could now chop the new one down to one coil length less than the old one as a start? Will have to think it through.

[Travis299]

Great info and help so far guys,

Thanks

Steve

I believe that folks would love to see pictures of your restoration project as I know I would.

Thanks

[stevegv8]

I believe that folks would love to see pictures of your restoration project as I know I would.

Thanks

The only three pics I took are on page 2 of the thread (link below) including it finished, the new cylinder & the new internals. I haven't taken any others yet as the stock is still the scruffy one from the original gun.

https://imgur.com/a/5VpjAcZ

[T 20]

Thanks Mick, re the piston, exactly what items would I need and where to get them without having to go via RFD's? Will the existing cocking link work with it for instance?

Thanks

Steve

Hi Steve.

New Pistons come under the VCR act and are supposed to be purchased face to face from an RFD, but I'm told that if you send a piston to Chambers they can send you a new one in exchange --- I'm not sure how true this is ?

The existing cocking link will work with a newer cylinder and piston, the only change in roller bearing cocking links was the addition of an anti click hump on later versions --- it didn't work, they still went click when you cocked them.




All the best Mick

[stevegv8]

Hi Steve.

New Pistons come under the VCR act and are supposed to be purchased face to face from an RFD, but I'm told that if you send a piston to Chambers they can send you a new one in exchange --- I'm not sure how true this is ?

The existing cocking link will work with a newer cylinder and piston, the only change in roller bearing cocking links was the addition of an anti click hump on later versions --- it didn't work, they still went click when you cocked them.




All the best Mick

I'm probably having to use Chambers for a barrel anyway so a piston from them makes sense.

Steve

[T 20]

Further to my PM, Steve, here's why I don't recommend buying the leather to synthetic adaptor kit. :-


http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....46#post7719946




All the best Mick

[stevegv8]

Further to my PM, Steve, here's why I don't recommend buying the leather to synthetic adaptor kit. :-


http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....46#post7719946




All the best Mick

[stevegv8]

I had some time yesterday and parts had arrived from Chambers so I thought I'd put some time into this one again.

Two issues though, the new spring was far too long and would give huge preload?? I hear all the time about too much power, excessive recoil and heavy to cock so I reused the original as it seemed strong and was straight. I will cut the new one down eventually and form the cut end properly too but I wanted to get on.
Second issue put a halt to it though, don't you just want to swear when you think you've got all you need for a job and then find you haven't? No barrel joint shims!!

However I did at least assemble the Cylinder.
Also in my naivety I didn't realise the new barrel would be aftermarket (I should have really as with old cars and old watches that I also play with it's normal) and is lacking the Weihrauch logo stamped on the right side, not to worry it is a bitser after all.

So two projects on the go (BSA underlever double sear in collectables) and can't complete either.

https://imgur.com/gallery/dXq5oPo

Steve