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Thread: Daystate Merlyn, hammer spring guide.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Daystate Merlyn, hammer spring guide.

    The Daystate Merlyn (c. 2009?) has a white split tubular guide about 2cm long on the hammer spring. I am pretty sure that my hammer spring has been rubbing on the guide at the end of the cocking stroke (spring expansion) to produce a certain graunchiness to the stroke. I have removed the guide and, so far, the graunch has gone. Question: Is this guide essential? I have chamfered the ends of the guide and smoothed the interior in case I need to replace it but do I need to? The spring locates quite happily in a recess in the safety holder and in the hammer housing.
    And before you ask, I tried all other means I could think of bar stripping the trigger to try and remove graunch.
    Cheers, Phil

  2. #2
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    sorry can't help you phil, but wish i still had my merlyn.atb mick

  3. #3
    premierpistol's Avatar
    premierpistol is offline Six out of seven dwarfs aren't happy
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    The split nylon spring guide is unlikely to be the issue but it wont hurt for it to be removed, its design function is to prevent any spring resonance upon firing, it is split to allow the spring to expand during cocking so theoretically, it would need the internal edges to be chamfered as opposed to the external edges??

    graunching upon cocking could stem from roughly ground spring ends? or from the contact area of the cocking dog screw that is fitted to the cocking bolt, as it slides along the slot on the underside of the breech housing, if there is any crumbs of crud or grit in there, they will get picked up by grease or oil and dragged up and down, making for some truly horrible cocking effort.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by premierpistol View Post
    The split nylon spring guide is unlikely to be the issue but it wont hurt for it to be removed, its design function is to prevent any spring resonance upon firing, it is split to allow the spring to expand during cocking so theoretically, it would need the internal edges to be chamfered as opposed to the external edges??

    graunching upon cocking could stem from roughly ground spring ends? or from the contact area of the cocking dog screw that is fitted to the cocking bolt, as it slides along the slot on the underside of the breech housing, if there is any crumbs of crud or grit in there, they will get picked up by grease or oil and dragged up and down, making for some truly horrible cocking effort.
    Thanks for the thoughts. I polished the spring ends even though they were very good. The sleeve as fitted was not chamfered at all, just lopped off a tube and cut down the middle with sharp corners on the cut. Cocking bolt is clean as is the actuator, I only use single shot. Bolt returns very smoothly once cocked. I polished the hammer to remove slight tool (?) marks. Dog screw is fine. I intend to continue my tests. I chamfered the inner edges in case I want to put the sleeve back, sorry I should have been clearer. I detect no resonance on firing after removing the sleeve.
    Cheers, Phil

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