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Thread: S410 cylinder removal and refitting

  1. #1
    bitmonkey Guest

    S410 cylinder removal and refitting

    Hi all,

    Hoping there's either a gunsmith or avid DIYer who can answer a couple of questions on the S410 for me.

    Since my S410 hasn't been shot much since I've had it (couple of years) I don't really want to pay air arms £60 to service it yet, but I'd like to check there's no corrosion inside the cylinder (I fill with a stirrup pump).

    a. Is the easiest way to inspect the cylinder to remove it near the action. Ie. remove the cylinder-to-barrel clamp at the front then remove the cylinder with the quickfill adapter and filling valve in place? Looks a lot simpler than removing the filling valve but I may have overlooked something.

    b. The diagram shows a sealing ring RN324 between cylinder and firing valve, will this be ok to re-use if undamaged or should I get a new one to reassemble with? Should I apply a little oil/grease to anything during reassemly or leave dry?

    c. How tight will the cylinder be screwed onto the firing valve? Will it need retightening to more than hand tight?

    Also, am I likely to run into problems realigning the barrel exactly afterwards or will the front clamp go back on easily exactly as it came off?

    Sorry for so many questions, if no-one can confirm I've got this right I'll probably wait a while then get it serviced, but it seems a waste of money when it's mainly sat unused and the only thing that really needs inspecting is the cylinder.


    thanks.

  2. #2
    Nodmeister is offline All I ask is that you are inventive but kind
    Join Date
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    Hi bitmonkey, may I suggest that you fill in your profile. It is unlikley as a newbie that you will get the information you are looking for until you do so. It's not that you may or may not know what you are doing BUT nobdy knows anything about you so your request may be met with some hostility. However IMO you wouls be better taking it to a qualified gunsmith. You are dealing with a compressed cylinder and it wouldn't be pleasant if it went bang in your face.

    Oh and by the way,, Welcome aboard.
    BSA R10 .177 Nikko Stirling Gameking 4-16x44A/O

  3. #3
    Deano1 Guest
    Welcome mate

    Gunsmith is your best bet, It will work out cheeper if you end up damaging the gun or worst still yourself.

    Horses for courses and all that

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Make sure the cylinder is empty, you may have to dry-fire it 'till it dumps the last of the air through the barrel with a loud "hiss..!"
    Take off the figure 8 clamp. Assuming it's the old-type filler, grip the cylinder behind the filling valve body, (AA part no. S490), with a strap wrench, or a leather belt and a pair of pliers. Fit a spanner on the male snap connector, S470, and the whole front end will come off in one piece. (be careful of the large O-ring, RN 234.) You can now look inside the cylinder.
    Don't take the whole cylinder off if you dont have to.
    HTH
    Gus.
    The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.

  5. #5
    The Specialist Guest
    answered.

  6. #6
    bitmonkey Guest
    Thanks, just saved me a load of beer tokens.

    To all those who urged caution - understood, I'm aware of the dangers but mechanically competent and, perhaps more relevant, part scottish ;-)... (Only 1/8th but I'm sure it's running in the blood .....

    Paul

  7. #7
    bitmonkey Guest
    Oh, one more thing - will I be able to get the valve to close using a pump afterwards - I've heard it can be tough to fill from totally empty with a pump. If not it's no big deal, can always take it to a shop to fill first time.

    thanks again.

    Paul

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Location
    Walsall, Midlands Uk
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    11,142
    Yes you will - just be sure to cock the action before proceeding.
    Put on heading 270, assume attack formation

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    14,313
    PS... try not to knock the barrel with the fig 8 clamp off, it's quite "springy, and shouldn't be a problem, but you'll probably have to re-zero when you put it back together again.

    Gus
    The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.

  10. #10
    bitmonkey Guest
    Thanks again - 1 hour to get an answer, wow - what a great board.

    Paul

  11. #11
    Rumplestiltskin Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Gwylan
    Fit a spanner on the male snap connector,
    All this will do, is remove the quickfill........

  12. #12
    bitmonkey Guest
    Just an update to say I got the cylinder open and gave it a clean with tissue paper wrapped around a 12ga cleaning rod. There was a little surface rust and I wasn't quite able to get it all off, but it was nothing serious anyway. Good to know it's not suffering much from the stirrup pump air, but I may buy a bottle at some point anyway just to make sure.

    Cheers.

    Paul

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
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    14,313
    Quote Originally Posted by Rumplestiltskin
    All this will do, is remove the quickfill........
    Rumpo... I discovered when I tried to remove the male filler on my S400, the whole lot came off. There are two holes in the front of the filling valve body to take a key wrench. I had to lock this up to take the filler off.

    Gus
    The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.

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