Best way to clean old varnished stock

[ptdunk]

Hi all...
I have a really nicely figured stock on an Anschutz 220, but it is a bit dull and you have to get right up close to see the beautiful grain.

Can anyone suggest the best way to give it a sympathetic clean?
I definitely don't want to remove the original varnish and oil it, as I'm not a fan of doing that to these old match rifles.

Probably a damp cloth & detergent but I made the mistake of doing that to a lacquered stock once and it went all cloudy (luckily it went back to normal after a few days) I don't know how you can tell lacquer from varnish, I'm just assuming it's varnished.

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I just want to remove some of the grime that's built up over the last 60 years.
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Matt

[45flint]

I have used Renaissance wax for this with great results. I rub it in very vigorously with a cotton patch and it cleans and leaves a nice luster that does not hurt the finish. Many times it will cover up the normal wear so that it is not as noticeable. Use it on the bluing as well with same results. Awesome stuff and British!

[Muskett]

Renaissance wax do a clay buffing compound too.

American varnish/lacquer then TCut auto polish will work as some finishes are an industrial hard coat, not a "live" oil/wax coat.

The laminate stock that went cloudy probably had a beeswax on the outer coat. Modern laminates usually are resin saturate/coated. Final polish can be anything, man made silicon oil or a natural linseed, all with or without hardener.

[ptdunk]

Thanks guys.
Will Briwax work? It’s beeswax based and quite thin.
I don’t have any renaissance wax.

Cheers,
Matt

[Maple]

Thanks guys.
Will Briwax work? It’s beeswax based and quite thin.
I don’t have any renaissance wax.

Cheers,
Matt

Briwax is the most useless stuff you could put on a stock !

[Lawrie Amatruda]

Thanks guys.
Will Briwax work? It’s beeswax based and quite thin.
I don’t have any renaissance wax.

Cheers,
Matt

I use spray can liquid furniture polish sprayed onto a duster, with great success, on stocks and snooker cues when a sympathetic clean is needed.

Cheers, Lawrie.

[ptdunk]

I use spray can liquid furniture polish sprayed onto a duster, with great success, on stocks and snooker cues when a sympathetic clean is needed.

Cheers, Lawrie.

Thanks Lawrie,
That’ll probably do the job.

Atb, Matt

[MDriskill]

I am FAR from a wood-finish expert, but have had good cleaning results from vigorously wiping down with damp terrycloth, followed by diluted Murphy's Oil Soap if needed.

I'm also a fan of Renaissance Wax. A friend who is a museum curator recommended it to me - he aptly described it as "making things look the same, only better." It's pricey but a tin lasts pretty much forever.

[45flint]

Often I am buying very old rifles with great wood but a buildup of wax and other grit that some might call patina but I call dirt? I use Renaissance Wax to clean the best I can. If that doesn’t help in spots I use a XXXX steel wool and buff down to the original finish. Here is an example of a rifle that had just awesome old German walnut that looked like rosewood. First how it looked on the auction sight with a bad area, then after cleanup. Lastly another example of a 100 year old Webley Mark 1 with grit and white paint on it, then after.

[junglie]

Often I am buying very old rifles with great wood but a buildup of wax and other grit that some might call patina but I call dirt? I use Renaissance Wax to clean the best I can. If that doesn’t help in spots I use a XXXX steel wool and buff down to the original finish. Here is an example of a rifle that had just awesome old German walnut that looked like rosewood. First how it looked on the auction sight with a bad area, then after cleanup. Lastly another example of a 100 year old Webley Mark 1 with grit and white paint on it, then after.

Great to see the old wood again after years of grime removed.

[junglie]

Often I am buying very old rifles with great wood but a buildup of wax and other grit that some might call patina but I call dirt? I use Renaissance Wax to clean the best I can. If that doesn’t help in spots I use a XXXX steel wool and buff down to the original finish. Here is an example of a rifle that had just awesome old German walnut that looked like rosewood. First how it looked on the auction sight with a bad area, then after cleanup. Lastly another example of a 100 year old Webley Mark 1 with grit and white paint on it, then after.

Great to see the old wood again after years of grime removed.

[dvd]

My mod 220 has a beech stock. Fairly plain with medullary rays in some places, nothing spectacular though.
Yours has some nicer looking wood, not sure what it is from those pictures.
I would be tempted to give it the full works and patina be damned. I like the unabashed look of good revitalised timber using oil, as opposed to preserving a dull patina which is only acceptable if it still brings out the natural and timeless beauty of good wood.
It's your call at the end of the day and whatever it will be, enjoy that fabulous old timer.

[Muskett]

There is buffing back to the original finish and then treating again. Just gets all the dead wax and polish off, and then puts back fresh.

Take it further is sanding out the old finish and then some. This can completely lose the history. This method can lose the depth of colour from age. Its kind of like starting with new wood. To me thats rarely a good idea, and a step too far.
An experience stocker can blend his oils and potions and keep a patina that reflects the history and a fresh new start again.

When I've tried its usually taken several goes to get a result I'd be happy with. Takes hours, even weeks. I try not to do it too often, and only on things that really don't matter. The two above jobs are nicely done, and similar to what I've achieved "eventually".
Stock refinishing is a skill.

[ptdunk]

My mod 220 has a beech stock. Fairly plain with medullary rays in some places, nothing spectacular though.
Yours has some nicer looking wood, not sure what it is from those pictures.
I would be tempted to give it the full works and patina be damned. I like the unabashed look of good revitalised timber using oil, as opposed to preserving a dull patina which is only acceptable if it still brings out the natural and timeless beauty of good wood.
It's your call at the end of the day and whatever it will be, enjoy that fabulous old timer.

I’ve seen your 220 and the stock does look excellent. The only time I’ve ever stripped a stock is when the original finish is badly damaged or peeling. I’ve done it to a 250 stock and an LGR.
When it comes to pre war stock I don’t mind the dark grimy look! I think it’s part of its character. Having said that all my pre war stocks are reasonably bright. Some seem to have been refinished by previous owners but I don’t really mind that.

I won’t be stripping this 220 stock as the original finish is fine, I’ll just use a bit of pledge and a cloth to clean it up a bit as per Lawrie’s suggestion.

Cheers,
Matt