Walther Century - Detune/tuning for accuracy and good manners

[TonyL]

They did- the gun now cocks very smooth, and theres not a hint of vibration on firing.
Theres still a lot of recoil, but the gun does not feel sharp and slammy any more.
It actually feels a lot like I've been thinking a well set up full power HW80 should (never got the 80 as good as I've been hoping for).
The accuracy is quite good on my 10 meter indoor range down the hallway, but it is naturally not as easy to shoot as a well set up TX or HW95..

Sounding good, though. I wonder if things improve even further once it has bedded in again even more and user and machine have had a little more bonding time?

Do you think you might still be tempted to sleeve down if you can get the LGV piston?

[TonyL]

Just a quickie and I apologise if it's been covered before, but if you couldn't easily come across an LGV piston, how much work would be involved to get the TX piston to work? Thinking about the cocking shoe arrangement and sear...

[NickG]

Just a quickie and I apologise if it's been covered before, but if you couldn't easily come across an LGV piston, how much work would be involved to get the TX piston to work? Thinking about the cocking shoe arrangement and sear...

I haven't actually done one , but the tx piston is shorter so the nose would need extending to put the skirt in the right place for cocking.

[evert]

Sounding good, though. I wonder if things improve even further once it has bedded in again even more and user and machine have had a little more bonding time?

Do you think you might still be tempted to sleeve down if you can get the LGV piston?

Yeah, the barrel and lockup on these are so good, that they deserve to be as good as possible.
And the way it is now, cocking becomes work...

[evert]

I haven't actually done one , but the tx piston is shorter so the nose would need extending to put the skirt in the right place for cocking.

The TX piston I have looked a bit short, so that sounds right.
I have two extra TX rods, one original and one really long from Bigtoe/Tony Leach, so making a piston would be possible.
Maybe the old B26 25mm tube could be a suitable tube for the sleeve? The cylinder without cutouts may be too short.

[evert]

Question to you guys who have done a lot of piston work:
If a reduced diameter piston was built from several parts: front, rod and body, would threading the front into the body be strong enough to endure the cocking forces?

[Shed tuner]

Question to you guys who have done a lot of piston work:
If a reduced diameter piston was built from several parts: front, rod and body, would threading the front into the body be strong enough to endure the cocking forces?

Well a TX piston is threaded into the piston. Just make sure you have a decent amount of material - at least 1.5x diameter so 15mm for M10 is plenty.

Body to nose (why not make out of solid) I think I'd rather press fit and weld.

[evert]

Well a TX piston is threaded into the piston. Just make sure you have a decent amount of material - at least 1.5x diameter so 15mm for M10 is plenty.

Body to nose (why not make out of solid) I think I'd rather press fit and weld.

The rod will of course be threaded like the TX, it is the nose I am more suspicious of threading to the body.
My welding skills are less than optimal, so I'm even more sceptical about welding the nose in.

[robs5230]

It was a pretty long time ago when I had a Century, but Nick STanning made me a TBT kit up (think I used a 97 export spring, 3.1 wire, 14.3ID) and it shot pretty well at sub 12

[evert]

It was a pretty long time ago when I had a Century, but Nick STanning made me a TBT kit up (think I used a 97 export spring, 3.1 wire, 14.3ID) and it shot pretty well at sub 12

Sounds like a good idea. I might have some delrin suited to make guides at that diameter.
Did you do open the transfer port to reduce bounce at that level?

[landymick]

You won’t need to open the T.P . It’s 3.2 on UK models , 3.4 on full power models. The FAC versions also had the LGV profile piston seal and thicker gauge spring .

[robs5230]

Sounds like a good idea. I might have some delrin suited to make guides at that diameter.
Did you do open the transfer port to reduce bounce at that level?

No I left the TP as it came

[evert]

After some more shooting, I'm beginning to like this setup even more.
The gun is as accurate as anything, but small mistakes in the recoil management does ope groups more than with the TX or HW97.
But even though the recoil is present, it is not unpleasant, and seems quite balanced, theres no "nodding" or jumpyness.
But the muzzle blast is quite loud and sharp, mounting a silencer really had a large effect.
So the next project might be a short silencer that matches the diameter of the muzzle weight.

[HW777]

After some more shooting, I'm beginning to like this setup even more.
The gun is as accurate as anything, but small mistakes in the recoil management does ope groups more than with the TX or HW97.
But even though the recoil is present, it is not unpleasant, and seems quite balanced, theres no "nodding" or jumpyness.
But the muzzle blast is quite loud and sharp, mounting a silencer really had a large effect.
So the next project might be a short silencer that matches the diameter of the muzzle weight.

Given the barrel lock up on the Century Evert, do you think this gives this rifle the edge over the Hw80 ?

Atb

John

[evert]

Given the barrel lock up on the Century Evert, do you think this gives this rifle the edge over the Hw80 ?

Atb

John

Well, I just shot some groups with a well adjusted HW95, and this gun shoots just as good as anything, so the 80/85/95/98 has a lockup that is more than good enough if properly adjusted.
But the Centrury/LGV seems even a bit sturdier, and for people who have been experiencing lockup issues with full power HW80's, the century's active locking system will probably feel reassuring.