Reply With QuoteThe Mk5 is a good gun, the replacement seal has the power up to normal for a Meteor and its putting pellet on pellet at 15 yards. I think I need another (or a MK4) to make into a carbine. Meteors are cheap enough to be addicted to.
Go ahead,,, String that bow
That would explain everything Heavy roller
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The Mk5 is a good gun, the replacement seal has the power up to normal for a Meteor and its putting pellet on pellet at 15 yards. I think I need another (or a MK4) to make into a carbine. Meteors are cheap enough to be addicted to.
Go ahead,,, String that bow
I'm hooked.Originally Posted by Gamocfx
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Are you a Meteor fan Dornfeld? I think I'm addicted to these little guns, I often wonder if there was an alternative stock for them? The narrower stock is on the version for the cadet force? I definatley need one of those as well
Is there a tuning kit for the Meteor? Not for power as I realise 10ft/ib is about top for a Meteor... just wondered how far people have gone with one of these? Restock, tune kit, fancy optics? What is the worrlds fanciest Meteor I wonder?
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The "narrow" stock is the standard stock. The stock with the square front and the rubber pad is the Super.
When it comes to kits, I have made my own. A well fitting guide plus a delrin tophat makes for a good improvement.
Remember to put a steel washer in front of the tophat, as the piston head keyhole can make problems without a washer.
The JM/Maccari spring makes for a quick shotcycle.
The biggest problem with the mk3-5 meteors is their sheet metal tube and the scope rail.
I had a good improvement after making a 1" brass honing plug to hone a cylinder straighter, and it really shows on the inside how high areas have been removed. You cant do that with a brake cylinder hone.
Use small light scopes to avoid problems.
Too many airguns!
Go ahead,,, String that bow
Not so much a fan as bordering on obsessive.
I'll be starting on one in the new year that I bought from here. Watch this space.
Last edited by Dornfelderliebe; 27-12-2022 at 10:00 AM. Reason: missed a bit
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It never occurred to me, to hone the cylinder Evert. Top man. Something else for the new year.
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Wow honing the cylinder is taking things to a new level (for me anyway as I never even imagined it could be done) and I am now looking at how it is done. Making a new top hat and guide is again beyond my skill set but I will look out fo ra kit-someone somewhere must be selling one!
I will be following with interest your work Dornfield as meteors are oddly becoming my favourite rifle. I intend to carbine a .177 and fit a barrel shroud which for me is akin to rocket science.
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IF you consider honing: DONT use brake cylinder hones or any other flexible honing tools - they can easily make cylinders WORSE, and even make tapers if used wrong.
The reason I wrote brass plug for honing is that it is the easiest available honing method for amateurs that only takes down high spots and does not introduce tapers or follow existing problems.
Too many airguns!
Go ahead,,, String that bow
I'll avoid them then Evert. I was contemplating fixing wet & dry to a piston (minus head) securing it to a suitably sized piece of wood and pushing it up and down , prior to my usual polishing of the cylinder but I rather think there would be so much scope for error it would make it worse.
Can I assume you hone forwards and backwards?
Go ahead,,, String that bow
I've just asked Evert about this gamocfx and it may pay not to try something without the proper skill set. A proper fitting delrin spring guide and top hat will make a difference as will deburring the cocking slot and spring ends. To do this you have to be comfortable with disassembling and more importantly reassembling it. You will need a spring compressor.
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No, I make honing plugs that fit on M10 all thread rod, and use a cordless drill.
I run the honing plug with emery paste to remove high spots, and try to run it up and down while spinning.
Then I finish off with fine wet&dry on a piece of wood dowel turned to a close fit in the tube.
Your piston idea will probably no be consistent enough in diameter to accomplish what you want,
I have more belief in the close fitting wood dowel with wet&dry paper.
Too many airguns!
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Its a good thing I returned to the thread! I just watched a couple of you tube vids on honing using the brake cylinder kit things! Looks like the dowel technique for me then.
There are a few tuning kits advertised but can be as much as £70 so I think I will stay within the service kits as I am not trying to up the power.
Thanks for the help with this.
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To be fair, brake cylinder hones can be used for the final surface finish after using coarse grit to remove high spots in the tube.
Just dont use the flexible honing tools to true up the tube.
Too many airguns!
Go ahead,,, String that bow
Nice one Evert. Not having any engineering facilities or suitably sized wood. I searched for another 25mm tube. Low and behold I found 25mm plastic conduit in the screwfix catalogue, wondering whether plastic is strong enough I tried it.
I glued a section of 400 grade wet & dry to it and gently had a go. I usually use different tubing with a slit to secure wet & dry wrapped around to polish cylinders so I was not worried about doing this carefully.
Whilst rotating it, I could feel alternating resistance then free movement. When moving forwards/backwards with a few degrees movement each time. I felt no difference.
Sadly my glue is not waterproof and after 5 minutes each on the two Mk3 cylinders I am working on, the paper came loose.
This may point to the uneven profile. I currently waiting for the glue to dry for a second attempt.
Last edited by Dornfelderliebe; 07-01-2023 at 10:11 PM.
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