Old HW50S

[MDriskill]

Another variable in the "old" HW 50 is the transfer port size.

I have two leather-sealed 50's, one with deluxe stock and simple trigger from 1958, and a standard stock Rekord 50S from 1967, with about a 4mm port.

I have two Beeman import guns, a "Monte Carlo" stocked 50S from 1980 and an R8 from 1983, with about a 3mm port. I know the R8 has synthetic seals and I suspect the 50S does as well, but have never had it apart.

(For what it's worth: the very homely '67 gun fits me the best. With a Maccari kit driving a reconditioned OEM leather piston seal, it's also by far the best shooter.)

[T 20]

I recently purchased a 1972 DOM HW50S. Upon arrival I tried a few weights of quality pellets through my chronograph. JSB exact 8.44 gr averaged 570 FPS and Exact 7.3 gr came in at 615.Both were 10 shot average.These figures are low so I ordered a spring and guide kit from ARH designed for the R8 HW50S. In the description of the kit there was mention of varying piston lengths. Would someone versed in older Weihrauch HW50 air rifles explain that to me please. I am unfamiliar with the internals of these airguns aside from the 25mm piston diameter and that it will be a leather piston sea.

Oh, I've just realised that the last 50 I bought off Mach 1.5 is in .177" flavour so I'll go and chrono it for comparison.



All the best Mick

[T 20]

Oh, I've just realised that the last 50 I bought off Mach 1.5 is in .177" flavour so I'll go and chrono it for comparison.

With the gun as supplied by Paul but with the piston and guts fitted by me just to make it complete. :-

https://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread...71#post8185971

FTT = 600fps

Super Domes = 610fps

So hovering at about 6.9 ftlbs with a very tired spring and seals.



All the best Mick

[Mach 1.5]

Must say the R8 in the pic above is rather nice. Mach 1.5

[MDriskill]

Must say the R8 in the pic above is rather nice. Mach 1.5

Thank you - Dr. Beeman did have a good eye, it's a very attractive design for sure.

But the R8 gave me an appreciation for HW's own stock design, too. For me at least, the plain finger-groove wood on the two classic old 50's in the photo is better; slimmer, lighter, and better balanced.

[Quadra]

Now that it's apart I've got a better understanding of what I have. HW50s #439xxx(1972) Almost nothing for preload when unscrewing the trigger block so either it's a aftermarket 7.5 joules spring or a Weihrauch HW55 spring used with the factory sheet metal guide. It could even be a cut spring but the spring ends appear the same. The spring is well worn(bent?) and is obviously in need of repacement when the ARH kit arrives.

[Quadra]

just thought I'd give an update. I installed the kit from Air Rifle Headquarters when it showed up. Contents were a synthetic guide and a new spring. I used minimal lube and soaked the leather seal In Neatsfoot oil. Everything in spotless form prior to assembly. The most it would yield was 6.9 FPE. I'm somewhat disappointed with those results as I expected more. A very nice shooter though, and such a lovely piece

[Shed tuner]

will the rekord swap straight in (omitting the safety catch, obviously) on the old school perfekt triggered HW50 ?

[T 20]

will the rekord swap straight in (omitting the safety catch, obviously) on the old school perfekt triggered HW50 ?

Yes, Jon, straight swap.

[Mach 1.5]

Later HW50's say around late 80s had the safety catch built into the perfect trigger. Just fitted into the groove at the back of the cylinder. The safety is a simple push up and down affair. Mach 1.5

[Shed tuner]

Yes, Jon, straight swap.

ta... although I've just tried mine today, and actually the trigger is not so bad...

[Quadra]

I've just reread one of T20's posts in this thread regarding HW35 leather sealed piston head length vs corresponding length in a synthetic sealed version. I have recently purchased a 1968 DOM HW 35e which is in the mail. If unmodified it should have a leather piston seal. I'm planning (if necessary) to purchase another tuning kit from ARH for this one as well.If so does that mean that there would be room to install piston preload spacers to allow tailoring velocity? Would this also be applicable to my HW50S. I'm not trying to make either of these quality air rifles into something they are not, I'm merely trying to ensure they are running at there maximum potential whilst retaining a smooth shot cycle. I always verify my tinkering results with a chronograph. Sometimes the results are both unexpected and/or surprising.

[junglie]

I've just reread one of T20's posts in this thread regarding HW35 leather sealed piston head length vs corresponding length in a synthetic sealed version. I have recently purchased a 1968 DOM HW 35e which is in the mail. If unmodified it should have a leather piston seal. I'm planning (if necessary) to purchase another tuning kit from ARH for this one as well.If so does that mean that there would be room to install piston preload spacers to allow tailoring velocity? Would this also be applicable to my HW50S. I'm not trying to make either of these quality air rifles into something they are not, I'm merely trying to ensure they are running at there maximum potential whilst retaining a smooth shot cycle. I always verify my tinkering results with a chronograph. Sometimes the results are both unexpected and/or surprising.

The older leather sealed HW35's make good power if the seals lubed well & in good condition with standard mainspring with very little preload, my '77 .22 made 11.5 ft;lbs easily in the original mainspring & seal after relubing.

[Shed tuner]

The older leather sealed HW35's make good power if the seals lubed well & in good condition with standard mainspring with very little preload, my '77 .22 made 11.5 ft;lbs easily in the original mainspring & seal after relubing.

they do but it normally involves a good bit of combustion assistance (if they are not suffering from the leaky breach). the longer stroked synthetics just shoot softer, less recoil and less cocking effort, and can genuinely make full power in .177

It's just laws of physics... increasing the swept volume..

[junglie]

they do but it normally involves a good bit of combustion assistance (if they are not suffering from the leaky breach). the longer stroked synthetics just shoot softer, less recoil and less cocking effort, and can genuinely make full power in .177

It's just laws of physics... increasing the swept volume..

Mine didn't diesel at all, it came to me as a sleeper for £100, with some bad pitting behind the barrel band & front of the cylinder but shooting ok if a bit twangy at 10.5 ft'lbs, when i stripped it for polishing prior to reblue all i did was soak the dry piston washer in hempseed oil, make a piston sleeve from a pop bottle & add two thin slip washers either end of the mainspring after polishing the spring ends & a bit of moly grease where needed.. The mainspring was the original HW one as it'd never been apart since 1977 & it was easy to cock(easier than my HW50s) & made 11.5 with hobbys straight away with no dieslling at all, oh i added a newer breech seal too but it didn't really need that. Shot lovely with a slowish shot cycle but very accurate with good pellets like Ftt's or jsb's. I prefer hempseed oil as I found neatsfoot diesels if applied too liberally & it's easier to get hold of online or at tesco's. all i do is smear the washer with it & wrap the pistonhead in cling film overnight to soak in.