Diana Model 10

[Modski66]

Having recently acquired an Original 6G and been suitably impressed with the Giss system, I now find myself wondering if a Diana Model 10 would make a good 10m target pistol?
I had to part with my beloved FWB 65 because my bad right elbow could not cope with the side lever cocking, whereas the 6G break barrel is okay.
But the Model 10 just looks like it takes things to another level. I didn't know much about the Giss system, other than it was scary and to be avoided, so I am somewhat behind with my knowledge of these pistols.
What does the collective knowledge of the target shooting community think of the Model 10, why are there none for sale, and if there were, what sort of price would I be looking at?

[Rutherford99]

When I used to shoot 10m pistol competitively at club level using a Steyr LP10, other shooters being similarly equipped, the best shooter in the club used an Original Model 10 pistol.

[AC99]

In the early 80's I used an Original mod 10 in 10m match competitions at my local club with a high degree of success before buying a FWB 65 and then moving on to a Morini but I regret selling the mod 10; a nice pistol to shoot.

[MDriskill]

The model 10 is a fantastic airgun, arguably the best barrel-cocking spring-piston pistol that it's possible to make...nothing quite like it before or since. Grips, trigger, and sights are all significantly advanced over the 6G.

The down side is that the mechanics are even more complex than the model 6 - especially the trigger mechanism, so you need to either buy one in good nick or have a good mechanic to hand! And, it is even heavier than the FWB 65.

Part of the issue is balance. The Giss system is amazing, but makes for a long receiver tube and a lot of weight in the middle of the gun. To get the muzzle-heavy feel that I like, I needed the auxiliary weight, putting things near the 1.5 kg legal limit. Even in my younger/fitter days, I was all over the target after just a few shots.

[Modski66]

The model 10 is a fantastic airgun, arguably the best barrel-cocking spring pistol that it's possible to make...nothing quite like it before or since. Grips, trigger, and sights are all significantly advanced over the 6G.

The down side is that the mechanics are even more complex than the model 6 - especially the trigger mechanism, so you need to either buy one in good nick or have a good mechanic to hand! And, it is heavy, especially with the optional muzzle weight mounted. It weighs even more than the FWB 65.

Having re-assembled the trigger mechanism on a FWB 65, the Model 10 can't be any more complicated than that!

It may be that I will not be able to acquire one any time soon; the sale of Ian Jones's collection at the Melbourne Airgun Fayre will not now happen, and there was the possibility of buying his. I will just continue to work on the anatomical grip for my 6G and see how I get on with that for now.

[thirdwheel]

If you are serious at all about 10m forget the 10, as has been said above it is heavy and too forward balanced, save your money and buy a s/h pcp.
But if you are a plinker, shooting for just fun and love mechanical things it is fine but the 6 is also just as good, not many 10's were sold as it was up against the 65 and that is so much better.

[Modski66]

I already have a pcp target pistol, had a FWB 65, but due to a bad right elbow, I couldn't manage the side lever cocking. I recently purchased a 6G that has been my first experience with the Giss system, and I am quite impressed, but the limited trigger adjustment is a bit frustrating.
The Model 10 looks a sleeker bit of kit with a lower sight line and better anatomical grip.
I don't think I would ever use one for serious competition, but it would fill the void left by the 65 as a 'vintage' target springer.

And IMHO, the 10 just looks so cool!

[zooma]

I already have a pcp target pistol, had a FWB 65, but due to a bad right elbow, I couldn't manage the side lever cocking. I recently purchased a 6G that has been my first experience with the Giss system, and I am quite impressed, but the limited trigger adjustment is a bit frustrating.
The Model 10 looks a sleeker bit of kit with a lower sight line and better anatomical grip.
I don't think I would ever use one for serious competition, but it would fill the void left by the 65 as a 'vintage' target springer.

And IMHO, the 10 just looks so cool!

Agreed

[hwtyger]

I liked the model 10 (I had a 6M and 10). But I found the grip to be too thin for me. But pistol (GISS) is awesome to shoot, good trigger.
I rate them higher than the FWB65. Never could get along with these. Awkward cocking and heavy at the back and no weight up front. If you can, buy one.
On egun they go for E300 ish Id estimate.

[zooma]

Hi Modski66,

I bought a new Original Model 10 soon after I started the Exmouth Air Pistol and Rifle Club back in 1971 to replace my Original Model 6.

The pistol was superb to look at, was very accurate, and for me it was a major upgrade over my Model 6 albeit "a bit on the heavy side" and with grips that could be a little on the small side for anyone (like me!) that has large size hands.

After several years my Model 10 was sold to fund a new FWB Model 80, but I wished I had kept it as I never got on with my Model 80 as well as I did with my Model 10.

Many years later I bought a used Model 10 in very good condition and had it resealed by Dave Mercer and it also shot very well....with some power!

The Achilles heel of the Model 10 (and the later version of the slant grip Model 6m that shared the same barrel as the Model 10) is the plastic cocking grip that pulls forwards to be turned over the front sight to protect the hand when cocking the pistol as they are known to wear (or split) and have not been available for many years .

I would hope that somebody has made a 3D printed copy of this vulnerable part by now, and if they have, it should be possible to keep the Model 10 (and 6M) pistols going for many years to come.

Bob.

[zooma]

As a matter of interest, I had two Model 10 air pistols re-sealed at the same time. Both were in excellent cosmetic condition and bought from two different sellers with the knowledge that they both needed re-sealing and fitting with new pairs of springs.

When they were returned one would shoot so high over the target that the sights could not be adjusted low enough to bring the shots back down onto the target .

The other Model 10 shot way underneath the target and did not have enough adjustment left on the rear sight to bring the shot back up to the target.

Without seeing this or experiencing it you wouldn't believe it!

Both Model 10's had been resealed and fitted with new springs and both shot well and with good power making it hard to understand what was going on at the time, but the gunsmith had not shot either pistol at a target after rebuilding them.

It was suggested by the gunsmith that the owner of the first pistol slammed the barrel shut hard enough to bend the barrel upwards over a period of time, and that the previous owner of the second pistol opened the barrel when loading too aggressively causing the barrel of that pistol to be bent in the opposite direction.

Both pistols looked OK and did not look like they had bent barrels.

Both were adjusted by leaning on the barrel in the right direction to correct the problem.

We had a Model 6 in the club once that shot so far to the right it could not be adjusted far enough to the left to bring it back on target. Armed with the experience gained with the soft barrels on those two Model 10 air pistols I gently pressed against the barrel of the Model 6 when it was rested on a wooden bench until I corrected it for the happy owner!

It is surprising just how soft the barrels are on these Original air pistols, how easily they can be distorted out of shape, and how easily they can be corrected!

[Helm]

Hi Chichester armoury had a boxed 10 a couple of days ago
Cheers ian

[MDriskill]

I already have a pcp target pistol, had a FWB 65, but due to a bad right elbow, I couldn't manage the side lever cocking.

As an aside, I've found that how I hold a 65 when cocking makes a difference for my old elbows.

The traditional way for a right-hander, is to hold the pistol vertically in the right hand; grab the lever overhand with the left, and pull sideways:




I find it easier to hold it horizontally (palm facing up), grab the lever underhand, and pull up: