Best way to refinish a gun stock

[ToniD]

Then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.
Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months.

Has anyone tried buffing with a polishing mop, or could it burn and damage the stock?

I'm honestly not being lazy, just arthritic with nerve damage.

[4end]

I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

[leighvite]

I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

I to was trained in similar way there are so many unnecessary methods used, I have made my stock refurbs a little more robust by adding equal quantities of tung oil takes a little longer to dry but gives a great finish. The wood does not take very much oil to seal and then the oil sits on top and takes longer to dry, I have also added alkanet flakes to the oil to enhance the colour or some spirit stain, beware the alkanet flakes do not take long to emit the red stain and can easily be over done, Beech is more difficult because the grain is much closer and harder than walnut. I agree using this method it only takes a buff to polish up again.