Best way to refinish a gun stock

[Segata]

Only difference to the two is it tends to be darkened to make it look Walnut but otherwise it behaves the same.

[maximus]

I have done 3 beech stocks, the first two went well but I wasn't happy with the last one. It had a lot of residual staining after removing the original finish. I had it sanded up nicely but tried the trick of soaking in bleach water to remove the stain. This kind of worked but the wood never took on the stain I applied successfully, maybe because of the bleach. I originally used Danish oil over the stain but refinished using a coloured wax. Still not what I was after but its OK I guess.

[Segata]

The Bleach was probably still in the wood effectively, it's a bugger for seeming dry when it's not quite, probably best to let it sit for quite a while after bleaching in a warm dry place so it goes completely dry.

[Logunner]

The Bleach was probably still in the wood effectively, it's a bugger for seeming dry when it's not quite, probably best to let it sit for quite a while after bleaching in a warm dry place so it goes completely dry.

You need to neutralise the bleach with white vinegar.

[ricardolamos]

I have used oxalic acid to bring out the grain in a beech stock before oiling.

I recently used Parker Hale walnut oil on a walnut stock and lots of light coats and buffing in between has given a really nice satin finish.

Lots of sanding with very fine grade paper(2000-3000)is worthwhile before applying the finish.

[maximus]

You need to neutralise the bleach with white vinegar.

Thanks for that tip, it only occurred to me that the bleach might of been a factor as I posted on this thread.

Regards Max

[vestlenning]

Alkanet oil on beech:

[FRANKIE]

Alkanet oil on beech:

Great looking finish you got going there fella.. Does the Alkanet oil you’ve used have dye in it or did you apply some before?

[ToniD]

It depends on the current finish.

If it’s oil then strip it with meths and scotchbrite pads ( fine grade will do the job ), use a nylon brush on the chequering and then clean out with a tooth pick.

Let it dry for 24hrs, then steam any dings and if the gun is used there will be dings. Let it dry before sanding with scotchbrite pads, medium down to extra fine and then wash off with spirit.

If not staining then the first coat should be 50/50 of chosen oil and spirit, for me this is always Alkanet oil. Leave it 24hrs and then fill the grain using the alkanet oil and 1000grit wet n dry paper, dont wipe off the slurry just leave it 24hrs before buffing it off with lint free cloth. Check it over and see if any grain needs further filling, if not then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.

Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months. If you prefer a more satin finish then the last piece is to use xxxfine pumice powder to take the sheen back a little. She’ll be silky smooth if done well.

Tru-oil is hideous varnish that is only fit for bar tops in the local boozer, just my opinion…

Alkanet oil on beech:

Oh that does look good, ordered the root from the horrendous auction site.
I've previously used raw Linseed Oil on a mark one Vulcan, it takes a little longer but works.