Best way to refinish a gun stock

[Targetman83]

Thanks for the replies so far everyone, apologies it is a walnut stock, and would just like to get it looking decent, it has no dings or scratches but was previously refinished by someone else and would like to get it back to it's original state.

[Segata]

Should be fairly straightforward, you'll need to strip the finish, ideally with a Chemical stripper, gentle sand and wipe down with alcohol to make sure theres no contaminents left, oil liberally and wipe off with something like Danish or Linseed oil and then use an appropiate varnish or wax sealer.

I do reccomend searching those tutorials out so you can see visually how it's done, I wouldn't use a stain in this case if you're certain its Walnut as you'll not want to darken it (some like my 25 use Beech and then darken to mimic walnut).

[maximus]

Hi, a walnut stock is the easiest to refinish imo. Remove all the existing and sand down to at least 400 grit ( thats as far as I go). Then get a good gun stock oil such as CCL and rub in. It'll soak in easy at first and slow down over time. Don't slosh too much on at once and remove any excess before it dries. Little and often is the best way. You won't need to overseal with wax or varnish, the oil finish will build up over time. Don't put hardly any oil in the checkering, just enough to colour the wood.

[Targetman83]

Perfect, thank you everyone, it doesn't sound too difficult, I think even I can do it!

[Logunner]

It depends on the current finish.

If it’s oil then strip it with meths and scotchbrite pads ( fine grade will do the job ), use a nylon brush on the chequering and then clean out with a tooth pick.

Let it dry for 24hrs, then steam any dings and if the gun is used there will be dings. Let it dry before sanding with scotchbrite pads, medium down to extra fine and then wash off with spirit.

If not staining then the first coat should be 50/50 of chosen oil and spirit, for me this is always Alkanet oil. Leave it 24hrs and then fill the grain using the alkanet oil and 1000grit wet n dry paper, dont wipe off the slurry just leave it 24hrs before buffing it off with lint free cloth. Check it over and see if any grain needs further filling, if not then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.

Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months. If you prefer a more satin finish then the last piece is to use xxxfine pumice powder to take the sheen back a little. She’ll be silky smooth if done well.

Tru-oil is hideous varnish that is only fit for bar tops in the local boozer, just my opinion…

[Segata]

Can't stand actual Varnish myself, I used to muck about with vintage radios and it loves to discolour and flake if exposed to the Sun over time which for a Rifle is pretty much whenever it's used.

[ashf9999]

My best tip is…take your time…

(As most would also agree).

If you have to go back to bare wood, Personally I’ve had best results from the CCL range of refinishing kits - nice that you can get the individual components as well. Be prepared to, if necessary, (as mentioned already) raise and sand back the grain, then ensure the grain is filled before you choose (if necessary) to stain it. This takes time and depends on the wood quality; the better quality being more tightly grained and in need of less prep. Palming in the oil/hardener does take many weeks to build up, but if done with patience will enhance any stock. I’ve also had success with the Napier kit.

[ToniD]

It depends on the current finish.

If it’s oil then strip it with meths and scotchbrite pads ( fine grade will do the job ), use a nylon brush on the chequering and then clean out with a tooth pick.

Let it dry for 24hrs, then steam any dings and if the gun is used there will be dings. Let it dry before sanding with scotchbrite pads, medium down to extra fine and then wash off with spirit.

If not staining then the first coat should be 50/50 of chosen oil and spirit, for me this is always Alkanet oil. Leave it 24hrs and then fill the grain using the alkanet oil and 1000grit wet n dry paper, dont wipe off the slurry just leave it 24hrs before buffing it off with lint free cloth. Check it over and see if any grain needs further filling, if not then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.

Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months. If you prefer a more satin finish then the last piece is to use xxxfine pumice powder to take the sheen back a little. She’ll be silky smooth if done well.

Tru-oil is hideous varnish that is only fit for bar tops in the local boozer, just my opinion…

If using Alkanet oil, do you use it during the whole process, or just for the first coat to achieve the colour then continue with Linseed oil?

Thanks.

Toni

[vestlenning]

If using Alkanet oil, do you use it during the whole process, or just for the first coat to achieve the colour then continue with Linseed oil?

During the whole process.

[ToniD]

Then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.
Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months.

Has anyone tried buffing with a polishing mop, or could it burn and damage the stock?

I'm honestly not being lazy, just arthritic with nerve damage.

[4end]

I served a 5yr apprenticeship where wood finishing was part of my training. I see lots of recommendations by guys that have used various materials to achieve a finish and without running them down I would only use one to achieve an oil finish. Raw artists grade linseed refined to remove the fats will dry quickly without any residue gumming up. It can be applied in several flood coats until the wood will absorb no more, any surplus wiped off and the stock placed somewhere warm to allow the oil to harden off. When hardened the surface can be buffed to a shine. This method is by far the simplest method to achieve a traditional oil finish and because the oil penetrates the surface the stock will remain waterproof needing just a buff to restore it if caught out in the rain.

[T 20]

Thanks for the replies so far everyone, apologies it is a walnut stock, and would just like to get it looking decent, it has no dings or scratches but was previously refinished by someone else and would like to get it back to it's original state.

When I've quickly refinished oiled stocks in good condition, I just scrub them down with cellulose thinner to remove the old oil and dirt and then when dry I've re-oiled them.

If your stock has been refinished with varnish then you have the ball ache of removing the varnish before re-oiling.



All the best Mick

[BC312]

If you have no dings or scratches a clean stock that needs a new finish then theres no need to sand anything just remove the old finish. I use cellulose thinners or gun wash with fine wire wool, then either colour the stock or have it in its natural form and either spray vanish it in matt satin or gloss or oil with a boiled linseed or true oil. With boiled linseed it takes a very long time to dry before handling, true oil you can build up to a gloss or use one or two coats for a matt or semi gloss let it fully dry and then go over with a very fine steel wool lightly and then wax. If you want it factory its usually sprayed with a lacquer in 2k or standard. To be honest there are quite a few ways to do a stock best to experiment before you try your prized piece.

[darren m]

just butting in here sorry :-

Just wondering if any one as had good success refinishing Beech stocks , ive got a HW80 and a pros-port , that could do with a make over .

[ashf9999]

just butting in here sorry :-

Just wondering if any one as had good success refinishing Beech stocks , ive got a HW80 and a pros-port , that could do with a make over .

I’ve used a CCL kit on a Webley Omega and Webley .410 shotgun. You will definitely need to raise and seal the comparatively porous wood, but it does work quite nicely. Worth using something like red root oil to stain the wood before oiling. You’ll need to stain darker than you want it to end up, as it lightens during oiling/palming.