Targetman, perhaps it's worth posting what you'd like to have the final finish as and what the stock is made from as that will help get the answers you need.
Has not one but two workbenches in his shed
Targetman, perhaps it's worth posting what you'd like to have the final finish as and what the stock is made from as that will help get the answers you need.
You'll Shoot your eye out Kid
Banned
Thanks for the replies so far everyone, apologies it is a walnut stock, and would just like to get it looking decent, it has no dings or scratches but was previously refinished by someone else and would like to get it back to it's original state.
Has not one but two workbenches in his shed
Should be fairly straightforward, you'll need to strip the finish, ideally with a Chemical stripper, gentle sand and wipe down with alcohol to make sure theres no contaminents left, oil liberally and wipe off with something like Danish or Linseed oil and then use an appropiate varnish or wax sealer.
I do reccomend searching those tutorials out so you can see visually how it's done, I wouldn't use a stain in this case if you're certain its Walnut as you'll not want to darken it (some like my 25 use Beech and then darken to mimic walnut).
You'll Shoot your eye out Kid
Registered User
Hi, a walnut stock is the easiest to refinish imo. Remove all the existing and sand down to at least 400 grit ( thats as far as I go). Then get a good gun stock oil such as CCL and rub in. It'll soak in easy at first and slow down over time. Don't slosh too much on at once and remove any excess before it dries. Little and often is the best way. You won't need to overseal with wax or varnish, the oil finish will build up over time. Don't put hardly any oil in the checkering, just enough to colour the wood.
Plinkerer and Tinkerer
Banned
Perfect, thank you everyone, it doesn't sound too difficult, I think even I can do it!
Registered User
It depends on the current finish.
If it’s oil then strip it with meths and scotchbrite pads ( fine grade will do the job ), use a nylon brush on the chequering and then clean out with a tooth pick.
Let it dry for 24hrs, then steam any dings and if the gun is used there will be dings. Let it dry before sanding with scotchbrite pads, medium down to extra fine and then wash off with spirit.
If not staining then the first coat should be 50/50 of chosen oil and spirit, for me this is always Alkanet oil. Leave it 24hrs and then fill the grain using the alkanet oil and 1000grit wet n dry paper, dont wipe off the slurry just leave it 24hrs before buffing it off with lint free cloth. Check it over and see if any grain needs further filling, if not then you can start the months long process of building a very nice oil finish.
Thin coat of oil, wait an hour and buff off with lint free cloth, do this every other day for fortnight and them once a week for a couple of months. If you prefer a more satin finish then the last piece is to use xxxfine pumice powder to take the sheen back a little. She’ll be silky smooth if done well.
Tru-oil is hideous varnish that is only fit for bar tops in the local boozer, just my opinion…
Has not one but two workbenches in his shed
Can't stand actual Varnish myself, I used to muck about with vintage radios and it loves to discolour and flake if exposed to the Sun over time which for a Rifle is pretty much whenever it's used.
You'll Shoot your eye out Kid
Registered User
If using Alkanet oil, do you use it during the whole process, or just for the first coat to achieve the colour then continue with Linseed oil?Originally Posted by Logunner
Thanks.
Toni
Registered User
Has anyone tried buffing with a polishing mop, or could it burn and damage the stock?
I'm honestly not being lazy, just arthritic with nerve damage.
Last edited by ToniD; 19-03-2024 at 01:48 PM.
Administrator
When I've quickly refinished oiled stocks in good condition, I just scrub them down with cellulose thinner to remove the old oil and dirt and then when dry I've re-oiled them.
If your stock has been refinished with varnish then you have the ball ache of removing the varnish before re-oiling.
All the best Mick
Registered User
If you have no dings or scratches a clean stock that needs a new finish then theres no need to sand anything just remove the old finish. I use cellulose thinners or gun wash with fine wire wool, then either colour the stock or have it in its natural form and either spray vanish it in matt satin or gloss or oil with a boiled linseed or true oil. With boiled linseed it takes a very long time to dry before handling, true oil you can build up to a gloss or use one or two coats for a matt or semi gloss let it fully dry and then go over with a very fine steel wool lightly and then wax. If you want it factory its usually sprayed with a lacquer in 2k or standard. To be honest there are quite a few ways to do a stock best to experiment before you try your prized piece.
Registered User
just butting in here sorry :-
Just wondering if any one as had good success refinishing Beech stocks , ive got a HW80 and a pros-port , that could do with a make over .
Registered User
I’ve used a CCL kit on a Webley Omega and Webley .410 shotgun. You will definitely need to raise and seal the comparatively porous wood, but it does work quite nicely. Worth using something like red root oil to stain the wood before oiling. You’ll need to stain darker than you want it to end up, as it lightens during oiling/palming.
Registered User
Same process for Beech as it is for Walnut, although you could use Danish oil on the beech.
Not Tru-oil, never Tru-oil
Has not one but two workbenches in his shed
Only difference to the two is it tends to be darkened to make it look Walnut but otherwise it behaves the same.
You'll Shoot your eye out Kid
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