BSA Supersport

[Ormicron]

Just got hold of a BSA Super sport, DS prefix, new in box. I got it from the original owner who says he got it from Cannock Army and Navy stores in 1986. is there a list of serial numbers out there so that I can confirm? i have had a bit of a disaster, taking the gun out of the box I clacked the back sight breaking the adjustable windage sight of the base. Can this be repaired? Have tried gluing no good, would it weld?

https://ibb.co/jw00Xnj
https://ibb.co/QCTWGsr
https://ibb.co/4PvXFKz
https://ibb.co/RSdGQTd
https://ibb.co/q0xn6KK

Does any one have any spares? Knibbs etc only have fibre optic types.


Thanks for any help you can offer.

[evert]

Congratulations on a really great gun!
If you can look past the breech pin and keep the forks well lubricated, the Supersport may be the best full power springgun BSA ever built. I've yet to get Superstars, Mercurys, Airsporters or pre-war under levers to shoot as accurate as my well set up Supersports.

DS prefix is a 1986 .22 Supersport according to the list on Knibbs' page.

I think 1986 may have been the first year of supersport production? Is it a Mk1 or a Mk2? Check the cocking links where they are mounted to the breech block, are there two or three links? The early Mk1 had two, and these may not be as durable as the later Mk2 with three links.

The sights come up for sale once in a while, so you should be able to find a replacement.

[Ormicron]

Thanks Evert

The gun has 2 links so a mk1 , the label states Supersport Air Rifle Carabine A Air. probably to id for other markets.

Dis they do a Carbine mk1?

[evert]

Thanks Evert

The gun has 2 links so a mk1 , the label states Supersport Air Rifle Carabine A Air. probably to id for other markets.

Dis they do a Carbine mk1?

I don't know the history of when the carbine was introduced.

For my own curiosity, how is the pin that secures the links to the breech block secured?
Does it have the same central rubber disc as the Meteor Mk5 and the late Mercury?

[Ormicron]

https://ibb.co/t45wnSh
https://ibb.co/ThnXyN0

Pictures of links

[evert]

Thanks, seems like it has the same rubber disc as the Meteor/Mercury.

The mk1 Supersport is much rarer than the later mk2, would be nice to hear if someone knows when they added the third link?

[Round]

Congratulations on a really great gun!
If you can look past the breech pin and keep the forks well lubricated, the Supersport may be the best full power springgun BSA ever built. I've yet to get Superstars, Mercurys, Airsporters or pre-war under levers to shoot as accurate as my well set up Supersports.

DS prefix is a 1986 .22 Supersport according to the list on Knibbs' page.

I think 1986 may have been the first year of supersport production? Is it a Mk1 or a Mk2? Check the cocking links where they are mounted to the breech block, are there two or three links? The early Mk1 had two, and these may not be as durable as the later Mk2 with three links.

The sights come up for sale once in a while, so you should be able to find a replacement.

Are they 5.5 or 5.6 barrels

[johnbaz]

They're nice rifles, I bought one from a mate (B'rider) in .25" cal, The only problem is that the only pellet that fits is the Marksman .25, All others almost crippled my thumb trying to get them to seat! (The pellet heads were too big so no point trying a pellet sizer!




It looks like I should maybe find some lower mounts out for the 32mm scope!!


John

[isobar]

the supersport looks like a nicely finished rifle,that .25 is a beauty.

[Josie & John]

Try Protek for a rearsight. They had several a while ago when I was after one.

[trajectory]

They're nice rifles, I bought one from a mate (B'rider) in .25" cal, The only problem is that the only pellet that fits is the Marksman .25, All others almost crippled my thumb trying to get them to seat! (The pellet heads were too big so no point trying a pellet sizer!


Guess it depends on how much you intend or wish to shoot your .25 but there might be a way to reduce the nose diameter while retaining the tail diameter. Not a quick process but how about running a tapered reamer Into a pice of 1/2" thick brass so the entry hole allows the pellet to easily drop into it. Then the next job is the tricky bit, push a pellet into the taper, measure how far the dome of the nose is from the exit hole. Remove pellet. Try nose in the breach for fit. Too small or still too large then try again with different seating depth in the brass block. Once the established depth is reached remove brass from the opposite side of the brass block, compared to where the pellet is put into it, so the most forward facing part of the domed pellet nose is flush with the surface of the brass. Note: the pellet does not pass straight through the brass block, it goes in from the wideest diameter of the taper, & is ejected out of the same. The idea being that the taper will not reduce the tail or skirt diameter as its the nose that gets restricted first.

To use it hold the brass block firmly on a flat surface, smallest hole down. Drop a pellet nose first into the tapered hole. Push down on the pellet until the nose of the pellet makes contact with the firm, flat surface under the brass block. Lift the block & eject pellet out of the larger hole.

If you are inclined to try it then it's possibly a nice little job to have a go at. I'd suggest making up a nose & tail punch from dowel or similar material profiled to fit the nose & tail of the pellet to avoid distrortion as much as possible.

I've made a couple of these before, on one I made a swivelling plate at the 'nose' end of the brass block to make a self contained unit.


All the best


Edit. Rolling the nose of the pellet between two flat surfaces can work, it's quicker but i reckon it's less controllable.
.

[Blackrider]

They're nice rifles, I bought one from a mate (B'rider) in .25" cal, The only problem is that the only pellet that fits is the Marksman .25, All others almost crippled my thumb trying to get them to seat! (The pellet heads were too big so no point trying a pellet sizer!




It looks like I should maybe find some lower mounts out for the 32mm scope!!


John

I'd forgot about that Supersport John but then I remembered the pain of forcing a true .25 pellet into the breech !
if you remember, I had a 635 Magnum and a Superstar excactly the same ?

Did you fit the high mounts or me ?
I may have done it to allow the "scope view" clearence over the rear sight ?

[johnbaz]

I'd forgot about that Supersport John but then I remembered the pain of forcing a true .25 pellet into the breech !
if you remember, I had a 635 Magnum and a Superstar excactly the same ?

Did you fit the high mounts or me ?
I may have done it to allow the "scope view" clearence over the rear sight ?

I can't remember John but I think I bought the Kassnar separate to the rifle, You charged me very little for it!, I have a feeling I fitted the mounts but may be wrong!!

[johnbaz]

They're nice rifles, I bought one from a mate (B'rider) in .25" cal, The only problem is that the only pellet that fits is the Marksman .25, All others almost crippled my thumb trying to get them to seat! (The pellet heads were too big so no point trying a pellet sizer!


Guess it depends on how much you intend or wish to shoot your .25 but there might be a way to reduce the nose diameter while retaining the tail diameter. Not a quick process but how about running a tapered reamer Into a pice of 1/2" thick brass so the entry hole allows the pellet to easily drop into it. Then the next job is the tricky bit, push a pellet into the taper, measure how far the dome of the nose is from the exit hole. Remove pellet. Try nose in the breach for fit. Too small or still too large then try again with different seating depth in the brass block. Once the established depth is reached remove brass from the opposite side of the brass block, compared to where the pellet is put into it, so the most forward facing part of the domed pellet nose is flush with the surface of the brass. Note: the pellet does not pass straight through the brass block, it goes in from the wideest diameter of the taper, & is ejected out of the same. The idea being that the taper will not reduce the tail or skirt diameter as its the nose that gets restricted first.

To use it hold the brass block firmly on a flat surface, smallest hole down. Drop a pellet nose first into the tapered hole. Push down on the pellet until the nose of the pellet makes contact with the firm, flat surface under the brass block. Lift the block & eject pellet out of the larger hole.

If you are inclined to try it then it's possibly a nice little job to have a go at. I'd suggest making up a nose & tail punch from dowel or similar material profiled to fit the nose & tail of the pellet to avoid distrortion as much as possible.

I've made a couple of these before, on one I made a swivelling plate at the 'nose' end of the brass block to make a self contained unit.


All the best


Edit. Rolling the nose of the pellet between two flat surfaces can work, it's quicker but i reckon it's less controllable.
.

Thanks for that but it shoots really well with the Marksman, They're quite a bit lighter than all the other .25 pellets and done have such a pronounced drop on the trajectory


Cheers, John

[evert]

They're nice rifles, I bought one from a mate (B'rider) in .25" cal, The only problem is that the only pellet that fits is the Marksman .25, All others almost crippled my thumb trying to get them to seat! (The pellet heads were too big so no point trying a pellet sizer!




It looks like I should maybe find some lower mounts out for the 32mm scope!!


John

I'm using Hawke low mounts with small scopes on the Supersports.