Ok guys.
Have had this around for a while now, getting to sort out a few quirks and as such me thinks itīs time for a decent update.

The bottom line?
After this undertaking done this thing with ONE exception just plain works. It hits hard, itīs as accurate as i could ask and reliable.

Or well.. it turned reliable.



As power went up it turned out that the breech seal simply didnīt stay tight. Stock the actual probe is on 5.6mm, and vs the breech o-ring of choice that simply doesnīt cut it. As mentioned, this got more and more severe in all that power went up BUT is also a testament to that this really should be adressed for a 12fpe gun as well.

What i did was cut the actual probe off on the lathe and turned a new one. This i did at a rather early stage, so thereīs two revisions to this in short. Chamber on the piece comes in at 6mm flat so i ended up cutting one on 5.95mm which put a halt to that there issue.
In other words?
You guys out there with an Aselkon at the back of the gun safe, have a new probe made by your local machine shop.

That done the thing really started to turn consistent, but this first as i picked the regulator apart and first up polished the contact points of the stacked belleville washers AND in turn polished the "anvil" for the thing out. That done though i have to say, set to approx 170 bar, that the thing is rather repeatable - judging by the onboard Mickey Mouse gauge at least.
Yes. Accuracy indeed improved from this.



Uhu. Fresh moderator too. By now this thing has downed its fair share of scaly tails, and keeps at it no doubt. Albeit 12fpe and all that it might be worth of notice that this thing copes an easy 135J/100fpe without breaking a sweat.
No. Thatīs not where iīve got it set, but as many of you are aware i tend to use hollow point slugs and for the time being itīs been either H&Nīs 36 or 40 grain offerings. These shoot very similar, as in print on target.

I came to make the trigger assy adjustable right, but leave it to Aselkon to eff that up too cause.. materials involved simply wouldnīt take the elevated hammer spring pressures why i have NOT been able to adjust this "on the edge" and keep it repeatable.
I like my triggers very light and this thing simply refuse to cater to that. Ergo.. for the long run i guess iīll be making a new hammer down the line.
What DID help immensly though was recutting the closing angle on the sear. By increasing incline ever so slightly the thing SURE hooked up like a ton better. Trigger pull is still rather "breaking glass" just stiffer than i enjoy - which i certainly can get accustomed to too.

This said.

That 1:15 twist 550mm jobbie for a barrel is an absolute gem. It really is, and seeing that twist it of course caters to heavier pills (being a 22cal) being used. Indeed. It will by no means hand "bad" results with lighter pills itīs just that it REALLY shines as you start feeding the thing the 33.95 JSB pellets or.. as mentioned the heavier H&N slugs.
Effect on the scaly tails is downright frightening almost cause.. again.. them hollow really ARE the bees knees as far as putting pests down. Not only that, itīs easily accurate enough to hit a mouse at 50 meters in the dark, using the NV-008 LRF ontop.



Youīve read me rant on about the performance of suppressors/moderators and this one is no exception. It stands to reason that as power goes up the demands on the moderator of course goes with.
Iīve come to a point where i get real good results "go big or go home" TBH and then with the combination of an active shroud coupled with said mod. Issue here, on the MX-10, is the physical restraint of proximity between barrel and tank which limits the shroud tube to a mere 23mm dia. The norm here, to me at least, is a 28mm ditto which of course makes for a rather vast difference in both area and volume.
That being said, note the rather small exit hole on that there moderator, which is on a 50mm diameter. Iīve touched upon this before, suppressor efficiency is extremely much about baffle and end cap through hole diameter, why IMO all mods needs to be installed using a dial indicator on a lathe or a pair of V-blocks.
Yes.
It DOES make for a difference, one you simply wonīt believe until done. Take my word for this.

That rather massive 50mm/2" can becomes viable as power goes up to still keep things REAL silent. Truth be told though i wouldnīt exactly cry myself to sleep if that shroud tube would have been on 28mm...
Regardless.
As you can gather 40 grain pills running out the snout at mid to high 1000īs makes for some power and this bring more noise, which needs to be controlled. At least for any pesting within city limits, and this setup sure does.
No.
Itīs still not "dead quiet", as you can get a say 60J unit.. but at least quiet enough that noone cares.

Summary thus far?
Well.
For better for worse where iīm at i have to give this piece flying colors. Itīs that simple, it has really come the full 9 yards and has come to prove it. A contender for the more expensive PCPīs iīve got?
Nah. Not really. A solid and decent performer that hands all i can ask tho, yes. Certainly.

So the take from all this then, i guess, is that them Aselkons CAN be of use - for those not all thumbs. Regard them as a "rifle kit" instead of something to use as you lift them out of the box, cause thatīs really what they are. Although assembled i guess, but..
Worth it?
Iīd be lying if i stated to be anything but happy with the outcome here so.. albeit a c*apload of work iīd vote yes for those on the edge. Tearing them apart to build them up again to become something usable is certainly doable, and you end up with a VERY well performning cheap PCP that "all" doesnīt have.

The MX-9 (the rifle version iīve also got) still got a few odd jobs before full circle but that being said iīve got no doubts what so ever itīll follow this MX-10 down the rabbit hole.