Vintage stock - is this a rescue or possibly making it worse?

[ashf9999]

That’s how I thought I would do it with a single cutter following the lines. Thanks for your input helps to know it has been done successfully and I’m not going down a path where I’m destine to screw up.

Yes indeed you’d need a single line for the border and to extend the main part up to that border. It’ll take a little longer, but will be just as satisfying.

[BC312]

I had a similar problem which i sorted out by simple cleaning, the checkering was full of old varnish and crap, a soaking in Acitone with a bristle brush cleaned out the checkering and with a re oil of the stock back to a decent checkering finish.

[isobar]

i agree with what has been said,nice and steady with a single line cutter and multiple passes until the right depth has been made,you already have good lines for the tool to follow.good light essential.

[Garvin]

I've done this Steve and dare I say, it's not so easy to screw up if you're refreshing what's already there, compared to chequering afresh. Just follow the advice above and take it slow.

[keith66]

And leave the border until last! in fact a good idea to put a couple of layers of masking tape round the outline, start with a good straight line in the middle & work outwards from that. Dem bart tools were available here & are excellent, not sure if you can still get them here. If your eyes get tired stop have a rest & come back to it later.
Borders are often put on stocks to hide over runs on cheap checkering jobs.

[Muskett]

Generally I would leave alone as it is an indication of its age and history. Requering won't add value, amd possible lose some.

Refreshing, recutting chequering just requires aplication and a steady hand. Slip half way through and its annoying.
The best chequerer I knew was the late Alan Wey. Real art.

[Garvin]

Generally I would leave alone as it is an indication of its age and history. Rechequering won't add value, amd possible lose some..

Not sure this is right tbh, because the existing chequering was sanded flat. I agree it would look worse if the chequering was damaged further, but IME this is unlikely with care, because the lines just need to be followed. Maybe the tool I using was so blunt the wood was safe from me bu**ering it up.

[Lakey]

Something like this would do the job nicely

https://www.brownells.co.uk/VEINER-L...iner-100048196

and see here for a good guide

https://kurtthegunsmith.com/how-to-r...on-a-gunstock/

Lakey

[Muskett]

Not sure this is right tbh, because the existing chequering was sanded flat. I agree it would look worse if the chequering was damaged further, but IME this is unlikely with care, because the lines just need to be followed. Maybe the tool I using was so blunt the wood was safe from me bu**ering it up.

Its been messed about a plenty over the years.
Chequering is a lot harder than it looks, especially first cut. Its a real skill and there is a lot of not great chequering done, heck even on "best guns". Its also not impossibly difficult but it does take a shed load of application. It comes down to the character of the person and good tools.
Does it matter from 5m away? Chequering is for added grip, and most works. The very best chequerers are in a league of their own.

Might your rifle look better for a recut? Sure. Its your rifle too. But with older rifles recutting loses some of its history, even the bad history.
If it was a really historically important original rifle then leave it alone. If not then fill your boots, or just move it on.

[Garvin]

The best chequerer I knew was the late Alan Wey. Real art.

Our very own Craig-P is also amazingly good. Here's an example of his work: