Reply With QuoteSnatching the trigger is bad technique pure & simple, as far as I'm concerned, I agree with your method.
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
I was brought up with the old school trigger technique of taking up the first pressure on the initial aim, then as the sights settle on the mark release the breath and hold, allow sight to sit on the mark while second pressure is taken up, the sear will trip at some point and the shot will be released, and a couple of seconds allowed as follow through. Anticipating the sear tripping was seen as a fault, the holding steady on aim and a constant rearward pressure would take care of everything.
It’s a technique that will work with most rifles from a Lee Metford .303 to a Feinwerkbau 300. I like the second pressure to have at least 2lbs pull weight or it doesn’t feel right.
However I see many people with PCPs or springers with an active trigger mechanism like an HW or AA set their trigger super-light and they snatch the trigger as the sights dance over the mark. Some people seem to be successful with this. I was taught this was bad form, that it was dangerous to set your trigger to a ‘hair trigger’ weight, and also it was poor technique ultimately affecting consistent accuracy.
Given that I was taught to shoot by my Dad, who learned from his Dad who learned it in the Officer Cadet Corps from Boer War veterans, am I a little out of date? Is snatching a very light trigger the thing nowadays?
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Snatching the trigger is bad technique pure & simple, as far as I'm concerned, I agree with your method.
Zebedee
Fully agree with you two chaps. And once that bad habit is embedded into the subconscious, it can only lead to further problems.
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I always use your technique. Snatching to me sounds like double tapping on a semi auto.
Registered User
Are we trying to say that "snatching" is an actual technique?
I always think of it as a mistake.
Personally I don't see anything wrong with a "hair trigger" as long as the shooter can use it, can feel it properly and control the pull.
My two main rifles have this set up.
Your technique would work with a heavy trigger or a light trigger.
Unless bench rested, then holding onto a target is very difficult, so you learn to move your sites onto the target and squeeze.
Some or most come up from below, I come in from the side, settle on target and squeeze.
Most of the time I don't even "think" right squeeze, it just happens, like automatically.
VAYA CON DIOS
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To be fair the standard of shooting by the British in the Boer wars was so bad the NSRA was set up to improve it!
While trying to explain the concept of the surprise break on another forum a while back, I was amazed at how many people just didn't understand the concept
Registered User
I have observed some very good shots on the field target circuit Ihave witnessed a technique even where they tap the trigger several times before the shot !.
Almost like several snatches .
Not for me I use the op's approach.
I'm happy with mine
agree with you
Even better looking than a HW35
I actually adjusted one of my triggers the other day as it was to light, I suppose the problem for me is using different triggers, I've become accustomed to the fake two stage unit on my Supersport Custom, which I find is a lovely trigger to use, so I try and set my other triggers up to be like that, the trigger I'm used to is not light but does break like glass (in my eyes anyway), so I'm used to pulling quickly through the first stage to positive stop and then tripping the trigger when ready, the proper two stage unit I adjusted the other day was to light, so when I pulled through the first stage quickly it went off, so I adjusted it slightly heavier, so it stopped positively, if you get what I'm saying.
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
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I also remember that on a Mercury S and Challenger I had back in the dayOriginally Posted by look no hands
Custom BSA S10 .22 PAX Phoenix Mk 2 .22 Custom Titan Manitou .22 (JB BP) HW77 .22 FWB Sport Mk1 .22 Sharp Ace .22 Crossman 600 .22 Berretta 92 .20 Desert Eagle .177
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I have to agree with the OP, I've bought two rifles second hand that had hair triggers, didn't like them set like that at all. One of them in particular, a HW 97, the millisecond I felt the trigger touch my finger it had fired !
Obviously everyone likes things how they are comfortable with, but sometimes it's just plain dangerous IMHO.
There's nothing cushy about life in the Women's Auxiliary Balloon Corps!
What is a fake two stage trigger?
What is the advantage of a two stage trigger over the trigger on my Scorpion pistol which doesn't move until it fires after more than one and a half pounds force is exceeded? I like that type the most.
P1V1overT1=P2V2overT2
Even better looking than a HW35
Commonly known as a pseudo trigger, not a true or proper two stager, I like them as my Supersport has one and I shoot that well.
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
There's nothing cushy about life in the Women's Auxiliary Balloon Corps!
My HW80 has the respected Rekord triger but I've never understood what the first stage does - except that sometimes the trigger does not return if I abandon the shot before the second release stage.
What does the first stage of a real two-stage trigger do?
P1V1overT1=P2V2overT2
Donor Fixer
It should return when you release it. It could be you just need to add half a turn clockwise to the weight screw behind the trigger blade.
If a bit of extra spring pressure doesn't fix it it could need a clean and relube, or maybe a little more restorative work internally.
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