I’ve had a few remmy’s and not had a weak lockup on any and a couple I’ve tapped to open the breech, fitting a mod can cause a different poin simply from having less flip and I guess that’s what happened to him.
I’ve had a few remmy’s and not had a weak lockup on any and a couple I’ve tapped to open the breech, fitting a mod can cause a different poin simply from having less flip and I guess that’s what happened to him.
It looks pretty chunky so I think you’re right. What does the ball locate into? On the HW30 it simply snaps over a round pin, maybe if it’s a stud like in an FWB Sport there could be irregularities? I don’t know.
Quite curious about the Remington, only thing is it’s not the kind of rifle I would keep, just buy tune and move on .. still they’re quite inexpensive..
I am slowly rebuilding a ball catch Mk3 Meteor, bought as spares last year. Bearing in mind that it is 50+ years old so may have worn and is just the assembled barrel and cylinder, the lock up feels weaker and it is much easier to break open.
It won't be as well engineered as the Feinwerkbau and this was obviously a short lived experiment which BSA must have revoked for a good reason.
Still looking for a stock for it.
The more I think I know, the more I realise the less I know.
My Express doesn't suffer droop.
The ball catch works just as it does on many Dianas
The breach adjusts so as to set the jaws for drag.
The only minor issue is the Chinese failure to use a shim under breach seal.
That can cause a consistency issue
I use the shim from a Diana model 34 and a BS109 O ring and it's sorted
Replacement breach seals are then pennies in a choice of 3 hardness types.
As you hint in the OP, and Barry and others mention, I would think it has more to do with the individual design and integrity, strength of spring etc and tolerances than whether it's a ball or chisel detent, Al.
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