Beeman R1 (HW80) strange ring noise in shot cycle??

[Bayman]

Good day gents.
I'm once again here to use the vast knowledge available to bail this yank out. I'm at my wits end with this R1. Its made 20 fpe in 22 and now I recently brought it down to 16 fpe in 22 caliber. To do so seems to takes more spring then makes sense. In any event to the best of my recollection it's always made this very audible metal ring or ping noise in the shot cycle. I've worked on a few other R1s and never remember them making this noise. I always associated the noise from this gun to being oversprung but it still makes it now that I brought it down to the same power as my 22 HW95. I'm starting to wonder if this noise could be associated with the suspected missing power. I can't find anything statically wrong with the sealing. It holds vacuum and pressure at any point in the seal travel. Yet the gun is still slammy feeling as if the TP is too big or piston seal is ruptured.

It makes the noise unscoped
It's had several different piston seals and springs.
It has a Vortek PG4 kit in it.
It's not the cocking arm.

I made a video of the gun to record the sound but for the life of me I can't figure out how to post it here. I suspect the noise is from the Comp tube or possibly the piston. Unfortunately I don't have spares to swap out.

This rifle has been a thorn in my side since I got it. It has been run in three different calibers, with two different spring kits, broken a Dampa mount and an Airmax scope. Something just isn't right with this thing. It's just my nemesis. Please help me if you can.

Thanks all
Ron

[MartynB]

Good day gents.
I'm once again here to use the vast knowledge available to bail this yank out. I'm at my wits end with this R1. Its made 20 fpe in 22 and now I recently brought it down to 16 fpe in 22 caliber. To do so seems to takes more spring then makes sense. In any event to the best of my recollection it's always made this very audible metal ring or ping noise in the shot cycle. I've worked on a few other R1s and never remember them making this noise. I always associated the noise from this gun to being oversprung but it still makes it now that I brought it down to the same power as my 22 HW95. I'm starting to wonder if this noise could be associated with the suspected missing power. I can't find anything statically wrong with the sealing. It holds vacuum and pressure at any point in the seal travel. Yet the gun is still slammy feeling as if the TP is too big or piston seal is ruptured.

It makes the noise unscoped
It's had several different piston seals and springs.
It has a Vortek PG4 kit in it.
It's not the cocking arm.

I made a video of the gun to record the sound but for the life of me I can't figure out how to post it here. I suspect the noise is from the Comp tube or possibly the piston. Unfortunately I don't have spares to swap out.

This rifle has been a thorn in my side since I got it. It has been run in three different calibers, with two different spring kits, broken a Dampa mount and an Airmax scope. Something just isn't right with this thing. It's just my nemesis. Please help me if you can.

Thanks all
Ron

Have you measured the TP ?

[tinbum]

Have you measured the TP ?

My first thought too! Check power with a range of pellets and post the averages on here, that will shed some light on it.

[Shed tuner]

Defo check the TP.

Also check the piston is round and true, and the rod is central.

Check the rear guide when fitted lines up with the trigger block hole (I mean exactly).

Check for burrs on the underside of the cocking slot

Check the cylinder is even as you slowly push the piston down

Check the barrel lock up stop is allowing a proper breach seal closure (true face, not sloping up or down).

Check it's not over sprung.. a 80/R1 should cock really easily if making just 16 FP in .22

[Waddy]

Sounds like could be an oversized TP, if this problem has persisted with all the changes you have done it has to be something that's been there the whole time.

The only other thing I can think of is if the piston skirt is smaller than it should be & is slapping around ?





.

[Bayman]

Defo check the TP. 3.0 mm

Also check the piston is round and true, and the rod is central.Did that it's good

Check the rear guide when fitted lines up with the trigger block hole (I mean exactly). Did that it's good

Check for burrs on the underside of the cocking slot Did that it's good

Check the cylinder is even as you slowly push the piston down Did that it's good. One of the first things I check is cylinder taper an distortion. I used to build race engines. Sealing cylinders is in my blood. Except maybe this one

Check the barrel lock up stop is allowing a proper breach seal closure (true face, not sloping up or down).did that tried different thickness breech seals. I also spread silicone grease on the seal to check for blow outs. Nothing found. It did seem to break the barrel open slightly and get vertical stringing with more spring

Check it's not over sprung.. a 80/R1 should cock really easily if making just 16 FP in .22 it's not terribly hard to cock but it doesn't feel any easier to cock than my 22 cal Hw95. It has a PG4 kit with 27.5 coils of 0.865" OD 0.148" wire spring. It's running about 25mm preload including the 18mm trigger housing thread

As far as pellets go I'm mostly testing with FTTs. The gun like most of the 22 Weihrauchs I've owned and worked on was most efficient with them. JSBs of any weight wouldn't match the accuracy or energy of the FTTs. Barracuda 18s have like four pounds less energy than the FTTs.

I gotta go I have guests At the house now.
Be back later

[Mach 1.5]

Funny enough I have an R1 which was a webley test rifle. Been tuned by the best in the business but still as a funny click when you cock the rifle. Just like the old 35. Mach 1.5

[MartynB]

Funny enough I have an R1 which was a webley test rifle. Been tuned by the best in the business put still as a funny click when you cock the rifle. Just like the old 35. Mach 1.5

Does it have articulated cocking lever (breach to cylinder) ?

[Mach 1.5]

The R1 doesn't have an articulated cocking lever. It's solid like the 80. Mach 1.5

[MartynB]

The R1 doesn't have an articulated cocking lever. It's solid like the 80. Mach 1.5

Could piston rod be clipping hole in cylinder end block, ie not quite straight ?

[TonyL]

Long shot but maybe worth checking that this isn't connected to the cocking lever, cocking shoe or something in the trigger unit / block?

[evert]

Does the gun have a piston sleeve?

[Shed tuner]

seems you checked pretty much everything already - not a big surprise, I know you know what you are doing

3.0mm TP is a bit small for a full fat 80... I'd defo open it out to at least 3.2mm initially, as that should significantly improve things. Ultimately I'd be expecting 3.4-3.5mm to be the sweet spot.

PS ream, don't drill. a 1/8" reamer will be perfect for a start

[TonyL]

Does the gun have a piston sleeve?

Good point. A metal sleeve could cause a "springy/pingy " type of sound if not correctly fitting. And when I was thinking trigger unit.....maybe the pivot bushes or safety spring?

[Barryg]

It's not the cocking arm.

I guess that you have checked the gap between the shoe and the piston slot as there has to be a small gap and sometimes if you fit a thinner piston seal it will hit.