Inside the 1912 BSA Improved D

[45flint]

Took apart the new to me 1912 BSA and it was mostly good news. Rifling clean like a mirror. I have the original spring, see pic with the 3 rifles stamp. John’s book says this rifle would have a single spring. The piston and spring are in good shape. The leather seal is still intact but the screw that holds it on has been beaten by slamming into the rifle barrel. The impression of the barrel in in the screw and brass seal cover. See pic. Not sure if I should peen it back and kept it as is or replace the leather seal with a new one I already have, see it in the pics. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[TonyL]

Thank you for sharing. This really emphasises the fine build and quality of these rifles. Excellent. If that old seal works fine, I might be tempted to just freshen it up a little with some neatsfoot and dress that screw. Having said that, if the replacement was to enjoy as long a life as the original, it's probably tempting to replace, safe in the knowledge that it will, hopefully, be good for another 100+ years.

Tough choice.....

[BRYAN3]

Is it possible to get the original spring re tempered?

[keith66]

The old seal looks like a replacement cut from a flat piece of leather belting or similar & looks too thin, I would replace it.

[Garvin]

Unusually, I disagree with Tony and like Keith I think you should change the seal for a parachute-type one based on the original pattern although that new seal you have looks a bit cracked.

[BC312]

Cupped seal or parachute seal is better for the gun. Usually the leather breaks down over time and you end up with a flat washer.

[45flint]

Couldn’t get the washer screw to break free easily so I kept the old for now. Fear of a screw that couldn’t be used again and not sure I can get a replacement? Getting about 9.5 fp. Agree the cupped seal would be better, will change out if I really want to shoot it regularly. But for now it’s a collectable that works.

[Josie & John]

Couldn’t get the washer screw to break free easily so I kept the old for now. Fear of a screw that couldn’t be used again and not sure I can get a replacement? Getting about 9.5 fp. Agree the cupped seal would be better, will change out if I really want to shoot it regularly. But for now it’s a collectable that works.

That's a sensible course of action and would have been my choice too.

Looks like performance is excellent too for a hundred year old rifle.

John

[mallyally]

The leather seal is still intact but the screw that holds it on has been beaten by slamming into the rifle barrel.

You mean transfer port of corse

[BC312]

It seems to be a common thing the screw slamming into the port hole, normal abuse over its life time, no pellet in tap, quite common. I think the counter sunk washer screw is near 5mm thread but can be re threaded to correct size. I normally do away with the brass washer and use a derilin or nylon washer and counter sink the new one a bit deeper that sinks the screw head a bit deeper, so if someone shoots the gun with no pellet then the plastic washer hits first rather than the screw, but this will be averted anyway if you use a cupped washer.

[Lakey]

If it were my gun, I would fit a new leather seal. Carefully sanding it dry to an easy sliding fit in the cylinder. Drip a little oil onto the seal immediately before fitting, then allow the gun to stand for a while. I would definitely keep the flat headed screw and the brass inner washer, that fits over the top of a secondary leather inner washer, as all that is completely original. The impression of the transfer port on the head of the screw is quite normal. I see it in 75% of the guns I open up. If you need a drop or two more oil, it is easily introduced in through the loading tap, then left to soak into the seal. But you don't want to flood it.

Love these gun's !!

Lakey

[sparko]

I must say that I am impressed with the attention to detail from BSA, with the piled arms stamp on the spring edge … I don’t suppose there was a need at all to do this, other than to id it as a BSA spring, but it was done never the less.

[silva]

Great rifle. I see the original spring is 33 coils. Would it be possible for you to measure the length and diameter of the spring and guage of the wire when you have a moment please I'm always wondering about the perfect replacement spring for these 45" rifles. Many thanks.

[45flint]

Thanks for all the comments. The rifle is back together after a good cleaning and lubing. I kept it as is, just peening the screw head lightly to push back the metal a little. I lubed the leather several times with neatsfoot oil letting it soak in. The leather seemed to revive and certainly there was a lot left as it was very difficult to get it back into the tube. Once in it sealed very well as I put my finger over the barrel pulled the cocking lever a bit and it recreated a vacuum that popped when I took my finger off. To me it was fascinating to experience the actual pull necessary to cock the rifle with an original spring. (My 1914 had a broken spring) It was a substantial pull. My first shot into my paper target was dead on. These were a beast of a rifle for the times!

Sorry with the rifle together I can’t measure the spring right now.

[45flint]

The spring had no preload when I took apart the rifle, is that normal?