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Thread: Inside the 1912 BSA Improved D

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Cupped seal or parachute seal is better for the gun. Usually the leather breaks down over time and you end up with a flat washer.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
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    Couldn’t get the washer screw to break free easily so I kept the old for now. Fear of a screw that couldn’t be used again and not sure I can get a replacement? Getting about 9.5 fp. Agree the cupped seal would be better, will change out if I really want to shoot it regularly. But for now it’s a collectable that works.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
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    Basingstoke, U.K.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45flint View Post
    Couldn’t get the washer screw to break free easily so I kept the old for now. Fear of a screw that couldn’t be used again and not sure I can get a replacement? Getting about 9.5 fp. Agree the cupped seal would be better, will change out if I really want to shoot it regularly. But for now it’s a collectable that works.
    That's a sensible course of action and would have been my choice too.

    Looks like performance is excellent too for a hundred year old rifle.

    John
    Currently looking for Baikal Makarov pistols with the following prefixes to the serial number: 98, T01, T09, T21, T22
    Prefer boxed or cased but will consider loose examples too.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Runcorn right by the bridge
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    The leather seal is still intact but the screw that holds it on has been beaten by slamming into the rifle barrel.

    You mean transfer port of corse

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Bordon Hants
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    660
    It seems to be a common thing the screw slamming into the port hole, normal abuse over its life time, no pellet in tap, quite common. I think the counter sunk washer screw is near 5mm thread but can be re threaded to correct size. I normally do away with the brass washer and use a derilin or nylon washer and counter sink the new one a bit deeper that sinks the screw head a bit deeper, so if someone shoots the gun with no pellet then the plastic washer hits first rather than the screw, but this will be averted anyway if you use a cupped washer.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
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    If it were my gun, I would fit a new leather seal. Carefully sanding it dry to an easy sliding fit in the cylinder. Drip a little oil onto the seal immediately before fitting, then allow the gun to stand for a while. I would definitely keep the flat headed screw and the brass inner washer, that fits over the top of a secondary leather inner washer, as all that is completely original. The impression of the transfer port on the head of the screw is quite normal. I see it in 75% of the guns I open up. If you need a drop or two more oil, it is easily introduced in through the loading tap, then left to soak into the seal. But you don't want to flood it.

    Love these gun's !!

    Lakey

  7. #7
    sparko is offline One of Tiger Woods' lovers...
    Join Date
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    I must say that I am impressed with the attention to detail from BSA, with the piled arms stamp on the spring edge … I don’t suppose there was a need at all to do this, other than to id it as a BSA spring, but it was done never the less.
    Not sure where I`m going.....But I`ll get there someday

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