2240 Power Adjuster?

[Aimstraight]

Recently bought a 2240 and would like an off the shelf power adjuster for extra flexibility (less power/more shots...although full power is most fun). There is blued one by Crosman (@SDCustom) that matches the pistol but that has a grub screw to lock the adjuster, which means carrying a tool. That one comes with a spring and delrin guide. There is a brass one with knurled brass locking ring (@Solware and GMac) that one has a built in spring guide (no spring). There is also a similar but 'small' brass one at GMac which looks ideal with its large diameter knurled locking ring.

Experience/comments with the above welcome.

Am I correct in thinking that these will adjust the power from full power with the original spring, down to lower power settings; not higher (i.e. keep legal). Or is it the case that some can tension the original spring tighter, increase the power, and therefore need to checked with a chrony?

Why are 'power springs' also advertised - they still have to keep within the legal limit (which I understand the stock pistol is close to)?

[webman]

If you leave the original spring in place, the power doesn't reduce by much at the lowest setting of the adjuster screw. You can increase the power, but soon reach a point when you get a bigger bang, but no increase in power, as the pellet exits the barrel before the extra gas can be used. The barrel length is the governing factor, for more than say 5.5 FP you need a rifle-length barrel. I fitted a slightly weaker spring in my 2240, and this gave me an approximate range of 2.5 to 5 FP energy. In order to initially puncture the CO2 bulb, you have to fire the gun, and if the hammer spring pressure is too low, it won't work. I set my adjuster to a high spring tension, and then back it off when the bulb is punctured.

[Aimstraight]

Thanks for that, I understand now, and guess that is why the 2250 with its longer barrel achieves higher power than the 2240.

[Snooper601]

Thanks for that, I understand now, and guess that is why the 2250 with its longer barrel achieves higher power than the 2240.

Most of the adjusters are designed for the 2250 so can cause you problems on the 2240.
The correct adjuster should make sure power remains below 6fpe in hot weather at it's maximum setting, use the correct spring to ensure this.

Cheers

John

[Saavan]

Yeah i'd echo some of the thoughts already posted. I've bought a lot of custom parts for my 2250 from GMAC which work a treat. I've been considering the power adjuster because mine isn't firing at the max potential, with a few upgrades -notably the breech, powers been upgraded to ~10.5 foot-pounds, still slightly off the cap. Don't get me wrong still packs a punch (.22), however were talking rifles. Not sure how the adjuster will be on the 2240 unfortunately.

[droid]

If I am honest the power adjusters I have had have been a total waste of time. I only put them on sometimes because they look pretty.

As for the stiffer springs I have a similar view, half the problems I come across are related to these "power springs" causing all kinds on issues, not limited to broken bolt handles.

You just dont need them on a 2240.

If you are target shooting just get a reduced volume valve and a trigger kit, money is better spent that way.

[Aimstraight]

Interesting comments regarding power adjusters on the 2240 (spring choice, care regarding fpe limit). Given the cost of them (& postage), I might just leave the 2240 alone, and keep any spare cash for something more productive...like a 2250B