I think your talking about neck turning, (not sizing which is done with a die). I bought my neck Turner from Sinclair in USA. But I am sure you would be able to get in UK now.
Was watching some guys at the game show that were turning their brass in a drill and making the neck walls all the same thickness.
I asked where you could buy one but they didn't know as it came from a friend in America. Where could I get one.
BBF
"The grass is always greener on the other side"
I think your talking about neck turning, (not sizing which is done with a die). I bought my neck Turner from Sinclair in USA. But I am sure you would be able to get in UK now.
Is this any help?
http://riflemansjour...ck-turning.html
If link doesn't work its on UKvarminting handloading section
Last edited by saxon; 24-02-2015 at 10:28 AM.
I use a Hornady one, Sportsman Gun Centre show one on their website, but ring before ordering to see if they actually have it in stock.
You will also need calibre specific mandrels.
Unless you have a tight necked custom chamber or you intend to use bushing dies it is absolutely pointless neck turning your brass.
Ian.
taking the high spots off even in a factory rifle aids grouping imo.in nuneaton your not far from norman clarkes they sell all that stuff.or give spud 1967 a call he will set you up and advise on whether or why you should bother.
Yes thanks for that
BBF
"The grass is always greener on the other side"
Why is it pointless?
Concentric ammunition is accurate ammunition, if you have wall thickness of 0.015 at one side of the neck and .011 at the other side it takes little time or effort to turn the neck and it is a one time job, same as flash hole de-burring.
If loading to mag length with a jump to the lands, any efforts taken to help the bullet leave the case central to the bore can't do any harm?
With hunting ammunition, and the range that most shots are taken at, the difference is probably negligible, but if you don't do it the niggling doubt that you haven't fully prepped your brass will always be there.
if you are only shooting in the 4's you need to look at fundamentals if you are chasing groups in the 1s and 2s rather than trying to "polish a turd" (harsh in this scenario but you get my point) with neck turning a flash hole uniforming.
I only have two rifles that I have actually spent the time on to develop truly accurate loads
Both of them shoot in the 0.3's without any case trimming, turning, batching, pocket/flash hole uniforming and that's with me shooting them off less than ideal platforms!
people often do things for their own gain rather than the gain of the rifle
But if it makes the shooter more confident ...crack on.
just don't expect miracles
I don't, but have seen some of Steve Kershaw's borescope pictures that show how bad they can be.
I will ask him to have a peek next time I call in.
Bottom line is I can reduce variables by proper brass prep that makes it more consistent and better matched to my rifles than factory fodder.
Reloading is a hobby in itself, same as fly tying. I don't think I catch any more fish by tying my own flies, or kill more with homeloads than I would do with factory, but I do have confidence in what I produce.
The thing is that your carefully prepared (and now slightly weaker necked) brass will be blown over whatever it is fired in.
Neck sizing has its place, but it can open up other cans of worms. It can help skimming to even up high spots if you feel the need, but it is really used to allow a tight necked loaded case to fit a chamber. The idea being to reduce brass movement. Over trim where you dont need it and you can actually make things worse (brass stretches a lot more in the neck).
I would make sure you need to do it first mate.
It has never made the blindest difference to anything I tried it with (and yes, I was able to tell).
I'm a maggot in another life you know