Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
nah, when you unscrew the piston washer and holder, you get an m8 threaded rod sticking out. if you machine back the shoulder of the piston face, to increase the stroke, as i mention above, leaving the central section around 22 mm fo fit inside the tighter section of the seal, then screw on a machined ally disc 3mm thick to form the mushroom that retains the seal, around 6mm of that m8 rod will be left pocking through... just chop it off flush.

i did take a piccy, will post in up over the weekend.

defo sleeve down the port.. just loctite the tube in.

I do it a bit differently, Jon.

I measure the stroke and cocking lever gap and do a quick calculation before I start machining.

Then I machine the front of the piston back by the amount needed to end up with a 71mm stroke, naturally this leaves more of the latch rod exposed.

After threading the newly exposed latch rod I screw on an alloy or delrin arbour to take the synthetic seal.

A quick tickle with a Dremel on the rear of the cocking lever slot in the piston to give a 1mm clearance on the cocking lever and it's good to go.


Doing it this way removes more weight from the piston and gives more threads inside the arbour, but saying that, this still doesn't get the piston down to the weight of the factory synthetic sealed piston.





All the best Mick