Spring compressors for a, er, spring change

[pgakister]

Before I attempt a spring change, thought i would invest in one of these. I am a coward and have a strong desire to keep my skin on my body.

Are the standard automotive ones too large? They look it to me. If so, what do people use?

Cheers


Pete

[Gwylan]

Try and get a S/H carpenter's sash cramp from a car-boot sale, or a S/H shop.
Screw it to a piece of wood, and off you go..! Some springers, like the TX200s don't need 'em.

Gus

[ikarma70]

what rifle is it that needs a spring change?

[pgakister]

Well there will be a 95k first, followed by a 97k at some time in the future

Pete

[Punchsteve]

As Gwylan said a sash clamp is the best way to go.

[kash2001]

Is it easier to remove the barrel first before fitting in a sash clamp ?

As I find that trying to keep the gun in postion whilst compressing the spring is awkward and can mark the gun as the compression gets greater, sometimes i find the gun wants vear left or right - Gas struts I usually send to a professional - Removing the spring i find is easier.

What do you guys use to protect the guns surface when compressing ?

Cheers

[Guppsta]

Have a look at THIS m8, it'll give you an idea of how to make one.
Dazz

[Gwylan]

Lots of good info on Guppsta's link. I use cable ties as a quick method of holding the gun in place, and plastic insulating tape on metal cramp surfaces. Some rifles you have to leave the barrel on, (all underlevers..!) so make sure your clamp/compressor is long enough.

Gus

[Guppsta]

Lots of good info on Guppsta's link. I use cable ties as a quick method of holding the gun in place, and plastic insulating tape on metal cramp surfaces. Some rifles you have to leave the barrel on, (all underlevers..!) so make sure your clamp/compressor is long enough.

Gus

I found it out cos im going to build one my self when i get time, i did have a more detailed link but it seems to have dissapeared.
Dazz.

[ikarma70]

never really needed 1 on my 95,there isnt that much preload.

[derekm]

I'll try and describe my spring compressor. It's all wood and doesn't risk marking the gun (Gamo CFX).

Lay the action on bench (length of action down length of bench and screw two blocks of scrap wood, one each side of barrel, so that breech end of cylinder can butt against them.

Two more blocks, one either side of trigger end of action to prevent movement side to side.

Take a piece of approx 1 1/2" x 3/4" x about 2feet long. Screw one end to bench, with screw (forming a pivot) approx 8" towards rear of bench and approx 2" behind rear plug of action. Add suitable packing between this lever and end plug and lean on lever to compress spring, then you can use both hands to remove plug retaining bolt or pin.

Sorry if it's a poor description, I was trained in heavy electrics, not English!
The CFX required about 10lbs to compress the spring and unloaded, it projected about 1 1/2" out of cylinder. I imagine other springers will be similar.

I should have taken a photo, but hindsight is always 20/20!

[Nige]

Here's a guide with photo's I did for the FWB 124, I suppose it could work with other springers?
WEBPAGE HERE

Nige

[kash2001]

Thanks for all the info guys, wish my wood work skills were as good as yours Nige52 , i noticed that the c clamps / sash clamps are different to mine,.

A c clamp doesn't appear right unless you cut part of the clamp off then youve got to mount it sash clamps usually fit on en edge are there any clamps for sale that are L shaped that can be fitted straight into place ?

Any links to good clamps to use would be welcome.

Paul

[LukeB]

Paul,

I am in the process of making a spring compressor and bought a cheap 6" G-clamp (£5.00 from B & Q), and was expecting it to be a complete pain in the backside to cut & drill to end up with the same kind of thing as pictured in the link that Guppsta posted. In reality all you need is a decent hacksaw (full size, not junior) and an HSS drill bit and some 3-in-1 oil. It took me about 3-4 mins to cut though the clamp when held in a bench vice, and as long as you go fairly slowly with the drilling and use a bit of oil to stop the drill bit from overheating it goes through easily enough. I wanted 7mm dia holes so started with a 4.5mm drill bit first, then went through again with the larger drill bit.
If you do use a G-clamp cut down to make an L shape, note that a strip of timber is used in that spring compressor to space it away from the base bit of timber board.

[GoodWILLHunting]

never really needed 1 on my 95,there isnt that much preload.

I agree also as you have to twist the end piece out which is tricky with some compressors that require the cylender to be restrained. Piece of cork on the flat of the hand, arm stright (holding the cylinder upright with transfer port resting on some card board on the ground) and press down with the stright arm and corked hand, then use the free hand to twist the cylinder. Not much pre load. I did my new .20 yesterday and managed to close it off with both hands only. The piece of cork helps grip the flat end when twisting.
ATB
Willie