I just painted on Domestos and left it for 20 minutes.
When the stock goes white, rinse it off, dry it and then stain till your get the colour you want
I just painted on Domestos and left it for 20 minutes.
When the stock goes white, rinse it off, dry it and then stain till your get the colour you want
seems like wat ever paint you use (or 'covering) its all about the right mix with the thinners and how many coat's required...and a touch of skill in aplication..
heres a 'ruff' job i did some 20 plus years ago, this stock was out in the weather for 2 years, by weather i mean straight line rain, ice..snow...baking hot sun you name it..midnight freezing fogs the works, day night 24/7... then left for years here there and every,including sheds and garages that leaked.
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/9...80stocklh0.jpg
its no supa job, but lets face it its a piece of beech lol..
two pots, one of stain (two thin coats) one of yaught varnish again 2 coats of just the right amount of thinners..
the motif was all the range back then, you'd pay anything from 80 quid up to the hundreds (a weeks wages or more).. some undercoat, black gloss and white gloss, the smidgens out of an old past it can..
i'd luv to get the sable brush's...and french polish something..bin a while but still in the head
wow how deep a glean..
Get your self a bottle of walnut stain and a bottle of true oil use the stain neat with a rag use as much or as little as you wont then use the true oil it will come up a treat you can then leave it gloss or apply a wax to make it a sheen or matt.
Here is one more very good article:
http://indiansforguns.com/./kb.php?mode=article&k=19
-Inder
FAC Diana52 .22 with Maccari kit - Bushnell Legend 5-15*40, FAC Diana52 .177 - Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Mildot 4.5-14×44 , FAC HW97 .177- Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Mildot 4.5-14×44, FAC TX200HC .177- Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Mildot 4.5-14×44
Does anyone have any ideas on what i should use to keep my walnut stock on my Theoben in tip top condition i did hear from one gun dealer that bees wax was rather good ????
Webley Raider 10-22,Logun Mod,Rhino 6-24-40 irTheoben Rapid Mk11-22,-Gary Caine profile stock-Rhino 8.5-39-52 ir- AWT Mod
For walnut you can use bees wax or get an oiling kit from your local gun shop or go to a good wood yard that supplies wood and oil for the furniture hobbyist/trade. I'm just about to try a "Trade secret" oil kit.
Many years ago when I was a boat builder I knew a boat builder called Jack Chippendale, he was some thing like great great great great grandson of the master furnature making Chippendale(not the male strippers). When varnishing boats he started off with 75% thinners to 25% varnish, then 50/50 then 25/75 and finishing with about 10 to 12 coats of varnish. The wood looked like it was under a sheet of glass, it was the best wood finish I've ever seen.
As an antique furniture restorer,i thought i'd give a few of my tips for stock finishing,
1/ BEECH FINISHING, i find it best to use water based stains (not spirit based) lots of colours available. Seal bare wood first with 50/50% shellac/finishing spirits or you could use a sanding sealer,cut back with 0000 wire wool then apply stain with a damp rag,allow to dry,seal the stain in with 80/20% shellac,finishing spirits,lightly cut back with 0000 wire wool,then wax up and buff off.
2/WALNUT OIL FINISH, I prefer not to stain walnut,(because i believe sealing after staining would prevent the oil soaking in!) but you can if you wish.Bare walnut will take a stain better,but remember to seal in the stain or the oil will make it streaky looking.
My method with a bare stock= wet the stock with a damp rag,dry quickly with a heat-gun/good hair-dryer(careful not to darken/scorch wood).Sand back with 400 grit paper,do this process twice.
Now for the oil process, i use (for the first two coats only) a mix off 35% tung-oil,35% boiled linseed oil,30%white spirit (turpentine works also) .This is a thin oil coating to help penetrate the grain better.Brush on,leave for 15 minutes wipe off excess with a rag(T-shirts are good),allow to dry for 24 hours in a dust free room.Then cut back with 400 grit paper.Do this process twice.
Now for the 3rd-8th coats. 45% tung-oil,45% boiled linseed oil,10%white spirit(or turpentine), use a rag to apply,leave 24 hours to dry,then cut back with 0000 wire wool,repeat 8 times,8 coats= about 8 days.If you wish once lightly cut back,apply wax or leave for further oil coating.
A WORD OF WARNING!!!! RAGS THAT HAVE BEEN USED TO OIL WITH CAN SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUST !! Wash out the used rags,then lay out flat outside on pavement/patio etc.
Handmade walnut s200 stock, BEFORE= http://img152.imageshack.us/my.php?i...tock004sm2.jpg
AFTER= http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=eds005uv0.jpg
A couple of suppliers i use= http://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/
http://www.mylands.co.uk/
I hope some of this is helpfull....Woody.
Last edited by nat1; 08-10-2008 at 04:42 PM.
oops!
Last edited by nat1; 15-05-2009 at 07:56 PM.
one thing you could try is a feather and ink technique i have seen this done to enhance the grain on some expensive shotgun stocks and it can look amazing but as always practice first... to get a good smooth finish on your stock once you think you have finished sanding and you are ready to stain soak the stock with water and dry quickly with a hair dryer this will make the stock rough again then use wire wool to remove the roughness repeat this process a few times to get a mirror finish prior to staining good luck
Hi All,
I tried looking at the original link and there it was gone..
Have any of you found it again or something similar???
Mark
i have just done 2 old bsa stocks, i stripped them back to the bare wood with 180/240/ then finished of with 800 grit papers then fished with about 6 coats of danish oil, they do it in several diferent colours well pleased with the result, i have used this fish on a lot of wood turned peaces i have done and as lon as you leave them to dry properly and sand in between coats with a soft wire wool finish comes up bril pm me if you want pics
muzzy
I have just stripped and re-polished the beech stock on my Logun Axsor. I used a high quality furniture wax called SUPREME WAX POLISH, it's by Fiddes & Sons. Mine was stripped pine in colour but you can get darker colours if you wish. The finish is extremely good and because it's a natural wax it remains very slightly tacky when your hot hands get on it. This makes it a very good grip with no slipperyness at all.
Regards, John