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Thread: airsporter spring removal

  1. #1
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    airsporter spring removal

    Can any one help , I would like to renew the spring in in my mk6 airsporter i have striped the under lever off i would now like to remove the inerds / spring and trigger housing, also any info on reblueing or kits or costs to have it done
    Cheers

  2. #2
    harvey_s's Avatar
    harvey_s is offline Lost love child of David Niven and Victoria Beckham
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    Just undo the trigger housing, it's got a normal right hand thread and a sharp tap with a wooden mallet is the best way to get it moving if its stubborn (tap the underlever mounting, not the trigger guard...)
    Once you get in going wrap towel or similar around the trigger block cos' it should be under a fair bit of pre-load, two peeps would be best for re-assembly - but it is do-able on your own...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by grumpar View Post
    Can any one help , I would like to renew the spring in in my mk6 airsporter i have striped the under lever off i would now like to remove the inerds / spring and trigger housing, also any info on reblueing or kits or costs to have it done
    Cheers
    They all strip down the same way: once you have removed the underlever, remove the cocking slide by undoing the nut on the retaining block and then push the slide forward until it can be removed from the cocking slot.

    Now that you are left with the cylinder/trigger assy only, the latter can be unscrewed (anticlockwise). There are several ways of doing this, BSA say you should put a close fitting rod through the hole in the trigger block, but many people grip the block in a vice/workmate (being careful not to mark or deform it) and then turn the cylinder using heavy workgloves or similar to grip it without damage. Depending upon how tight it is, you may need to use a wooden mallet or similar to tap the block in order to get it started.

    The thread is fine so it takes a good number of turns. There may be significant spring compression so keep everything under control as the last few threads come undone.

    Reassembly is much the same but you may need to rest the muzzle on a piece of wood on the floor and put your weight on the block (again wearing the gloves) to re-engage the threads - having an assistant to turn the cylinder.

    Hope this helps.
    Happy Shooting!! Paul.
    "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.

  4. #4
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    ...are as above 'fine' , and as I never seem to be able to use gloves , shredded my fingers raw and bloody on reassembly , as those thread cuttings are as sharp as the day they were made .
    A wooden sash clamp from an old style junk shop would be high on my list of future buys if I get the chance to go looking . I'm sure a modern steel clamp from one of the tool merchants would do .
    " WHEN YOU'RE GOING TO SHOOT - SHOOT , DON'T TALK ! "

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arch.Stanton? View Post
    ...are as above 'fine' , and as I never seem to be able to use gloves , shredded my fingers raw and bloody on reassembly , as those thread cuttings are as sharp as the day they were made .
    A wooden sash clamp from an old style junk shop would be high on my list of future buys if I get the chance to go looking . I'm sure a modern steel clamp from one of the tool merchants would do .
    Trouble is the sculpted rear end on the trigger block makes it hard to apply a cramp. I guess you could make some kind of a spacer profiled to do the job though.
    Happy Shooting!! Paul.
    "We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking that we used when we created them" - Albert Einstein.

  6. #6
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    Thanks all

    I would just like to say thanks guys for your information , the operation went quite well and i now have it striped down , i was in two minds about stripping down this far now glad i did inside was full of old dry oil and the rubber rings fell apart when i took them out

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