Results 1 to 13 of 13

Thread: Webley Mk 3

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    middlesbrough
    Posts
    688

    Webley Mk 3

    I have recently aqquired a Webley Mk 3 with the serial no F68. I wonder if this would be a guide as to its rough age? Can anyone help on this one?
    many thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    2,153

    Webley Mark 3

    One of the last made 1973-1975.

    Mike95

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    middlesbrough
    Posts
    688
    Hi Mike thanks very much for that

  4. #4
    Bowyer is offline They don't like it up 'em, Mr Mainwaring
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Cambridge, U.K.
    Posts
    1,014
    Anyone know an approx date for a Mk 3 seriel 39672?

    Much appreciated.

    Also, just ordered a new leather washer for it and I've never shot one in before. Any tips? What lube etc?

    Cheers,

    Chris.
    Don't tell 'em y'name, Pike!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    2,153

    Webley mark 3

    Date approx 1961-1964. Relube cylinder/spring etc in normal manner with a little moly grease, soak leather washer in suitable oil..I think original was Weboil, seen calves foot oil mentioned, squeeze out all excess oil to avoid a lot of initial smoke!
    Original instructions were Weboil down the barrel/tap to lube the leather washer and cylinder...remember this is a copy of a pre war Diana which was probably a copy of an even older BSA. If you have a chrono you could try the oil down the barrel (tap closed), let it stand in a warm airing cupboard for a day or so and fire it up! Worked fine on a BSA Cadet Major that I could not open. NOT recommended for a modern gun.
    I have replaced a number of my Mark 3 washers with ptfe (TR Robb does them I think) and you get an almost immediate 9ft/lbs or so with no running in period. The leather washer will want a few hundred pellets or more to settle down.


    Mike95

  6. #6
    Bowyer is offline They don't like it up 'em, Mr Mainwaring
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Cambridge, U.K.
    Posts
    1,014
    Thanks Mike!

    I've got a new leather washer, screw, spring etc just arrived today. The gun's got a PTFE washer in at the moment - along with a horribly cut down ox spring. It does all of 4ft/lbs and recoils like a mule!

    I'll try just replacing the spring first off and chrono it, then proceed on to the replacement of the PTFE with leather if it's still way down....


    Toddles off to play....
    Don't tell 'em y'name, Pike!

  7. #7
    Bowyer is offline They don't like it up 'em, Mr Mainwaring
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Cambridge, U.K.
    Posts
    1,014
    Hmmm... does 5.65ft/lb with the correct spring and the PTFE washer.

    Next stage will be to fit the leather washer, but I don't have suitable oil, so back on the shelf for now. Any other oil recommendations gratefully received.
    Don't tell 'em y'name, Pike!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    MANSFIELD
    Posts
    257
    1957-1961

  9. #9
    edbear2 Guest
    Hi...I use Cengar green oil in my old guns, it is a close match to Weboil and similar types (do a search online, loads of info)...I believe Weboil was a straight grade (sae30) mineral oil, so Silkolene oil would be a good alternative (they sell straight grade oils in their classic section).

    There are two schools of thought obviously, as modern silicon / graphite lubes dont detonate like a mineral oil will, but at anything up to 10 pounds energy, after the intial few shots and bit of smoke,they seem to settle down well, and I just do the old fashioned 2-3 drops in the transfer port every 700 - 1000 shots as all makers used to recommend till well into the 1970's.

    Others will say neatsfoot, lard etc. etc, and all have been used by many people over the years, But I have found the main thing is not to over lube!

    P.S.....leather piston washer fitting....I personally size the washer (grip the piston rod in a lathe or drill) with glass paper / sharp lathe tool/finish with paper...until it is an easy sliding fit in the cylinder, then I lightly grease the piston bearing surfaces, but leave the washer dry.....I assemble the gun, and then fill the loading tap with oil, close and stand the gun upright for 48 hours in a corner to allow it to run into the compression chamber. Then I cock /decock several times, and leave for another day or so. Seems to work fine for me, and I was told this is how BSA used to build the pre-war guns.

  10. #10
    Bowyer is offline They don't like it up 'em, Mr Mainwaring
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Cambridge, U.K.
    Posts
    1,014
    Before I go on to replacing the washer with the leather one - there's a bit of air blowing out of the loading tap area when firing. Not too bad, but how much does this affect it - were they always like this or is there undue wear?
    Don't tell 'em y'name, Pike!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Northampton
    Posts
    2,153

    PTFE washer sizing

    They do need sizing....chuck into an electric drill and use some wet and dry to reduce. I use a long piece of threaded rod, mount the ptfe washer via a washer and couple of nuts. Light smear of moly and introduce into the cylinder. You want the ptfe to slide under a few pound pressure...many of them are made over size for obvious reasons. If the ptfe washer is too tight you will lose power.
    If the tap is leaking you will lose power...you can grease up the tap but it will not hold. Some have the taps nickel plated to take up the wear.


    Mike95

  12. #12
    Bowyer is offline They don't like it up 'em, Mr Mainwaring
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Cambridge, U.K.
    Posts
    1,014
    Thanks Mike. Thanks to Edbear too.

    Chris.
    Don't tell 'em y'name, Pike!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Winchester, UK
    Posts
    15,430
    Some have the taps nickel plated to take up the wear.
    John Walker of Hull has just done this on an old Mk.3 he wants to use for plinking, and after careful lapping in, it now aligns perfectly.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •