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Thread: FWB 127 strip down help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    FWB 127 strip down help

    Hello all, I am restoring a friends fwb 127, which is nice because he will pay for the parts But I will have to give it back
    I have stripped it all down, straightened a slightly upwards sweep to the barrel. V-mach Kit is on order and the bits will go To Manchester airguns for a full re-blue. However I can not for the life of me work out how to remove the spring and ball bearing that locks up the breech. I assumed it was held in place by the pin going through the breech at the rearmost of the action, having drifted this out, I cant really see what this does and am no wiser as to how to remove the bearing and spring. I would be worried to send it to be blued with the spring in as it might spoil the temper? Therefore I need a little guidance.
    Many thanks
    Will
    Pro-Target 3 with a Silver Weaver.
    S200, tweakied, Ginb, with a Burris.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    City of London
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    Quote Originally Posted by raisedbybrocks View Post
    Hello all, I am restoring a friends fwb 127, which is nice because he will pay for the parts But I will have to give it back
    I have stripped it all down, straightened a slightly upwards sweep to the barrel. V-mach Kit is on order and the bits will go To Manchester airguns for a full re-blue. However I can not for the life of me work out how to remove the spring and ball bearing that locks up the breech. I assumed it was held in place by the pin going through the breech at the rearmost of the action, having drifted this out, I cant really see what this does and am no wiser as to how to remove the bearing and spring. I would be worried to send it to be blued with the spring in as it might spoil the temper? Therefore I need a little guidance.
    Many thanks
    Will
    I think the ball is simply 'crimped' in place, if that's the right word. I had a Sport reblued and the ball was left in place. Some blueing salt emerged from behind it for a short while but the spring held its temper perfectly well IIRC.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Ross on wye
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    Hello Mate thanks, does that mean it is just a very tight fit and requires prying out? don't want to brake anything, have to be extra careful cos i'm a blacksmith.
    Pro-Target 3 with a Silver Weaver.
    S200, tweakied, Ginb, with a Burris.
    B+C HW 95 special with a Burris.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Ashby de la Zouch
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    2,540

    Fwb

    As Danny says, the ball is pressed and staked in at the factory and I would not attempt to remove it. You will create a problem for yourself in refitting it - not easy

    The hot blueing is carried out at temperatures that will not effect the steel temper/metallurgy.

    Expect a bit of the chemical to leech out for a while after the bluing is complete, so check daily and remove it with a bit of rag soaked in oil.

    John
    hold me back !!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Ross on wye
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    Thanks Chaps, will leave it in place.
    Pro-Target 3 with a Silver Weaver.
    S200, tweakied, Ginb, with a Burris.
    B+C HW 95 special with a Burris.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Liskeard, Cornwall
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    Be careful not to damage the safety catch, they are made of thin metal, and difficult to replace.

    Gus
    The ox is slow, but the earth is patient.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Ross on wye
    Posts
    281
    Cheers Safety is fine, should all come up splendidly. Just stripping the orible varnish off the beech stock to refinish it.
    Pro-Target 3 with a Silver Weaver.
    S200, tweakied, Ginb, with a Burris.
    B+C HW 95 special with a Burris.

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