People say not to use nails to drive pins out, as the nails are pointed and flare the end of the pin, but they are fine if you grind the point off squarely
Great pics and not too bad to do cheers for the info
People say not to use nails to drive pins out, as the nails are pointed and flare the end of the pin, but they are fine if you grind the point off squarely
But you can buy a set of pin punches from the bay for £7.00 inc postage. I did last week.
Anyway, I stripped my CD trigger unit yesterday and gave the bits a good old polish. I'm a bit of a mechanical noob but I guess I'm not the only one on here. After reassembling I couldn't get the gun to cock. I posted a query about this last night on the main forum and received two helpful replies - I thought I'd pass on my comments.
First of all, is it worth doing?
Definitely!
The trigger is a totally different beast now. Light and precise first stage coming to a clearly defined stop before second stage - it's beautiful!
Two pitfalls I found:
1. Make sure you approximate the same or similar trigger-weight when putting your unit back together. If you follow this guide you will be removing the trigger-weight screw, so make a note of it's position so that you can copy it when reassembling.
2. Make sure the safety button is relocated correctly. Both factors can influence how the gun cocks.
Thanks everyone.
It's only a bloody pellet gun for Gods sake!
BASC member
Another rather basic newbie question.
What product would you re-lube this with?
And where would you put it?
It's only a bloody pellet gun for Gods sake!
BASC member
Thanks.
Will the tuning shown on this thread help remove the "creep/ spongeyness" i have on my tx?
Thanks
If anyone who has done this is reading this, what problems did you encounter when dismantling the trigger unit?
None, its really easy, just take your time, following the guide.
A very worth while mod and just two things to add
While you have your pride and joy apart you could also think about mirror polishing
the mushroom as well, you will notice after you have how much smoother it will cock
and its quieter as well.
Secondly while you are there with your sears and block in pieces give the adjusting
screws a polish as well (the ends that is )it helps your fine adjustments no end.
Rik
Never pull the trigger unless you know
you are going to hit what you are aiming at.
You never need an excuse to mirror polish your mushroom! Just don't get caught.
AA Prosport.177, HW77.177, HW97K.177, HW98.177, Theoben Evolution.177, Theoben SLR98.177, AA S410.177, Alros Trailsman.22
Tried this with my TX200 this week: stripped the trigger, polished the contact surfaces to a mirror finish and re-lubed with a bit of moly grease. I then decreased the travel of both stages bit by bit, resetting dry-firing the trigger block as I went. I found that by doing this, I was able to get the trigger light but sharp with a clear second-stage despite it being light, and no creep or "sponginess" to speak of.
The pressure feels different to when there's spring pressure on the rifle but it gives you a good idea of the stages if nothing else - set the trigger pressure a shade lighter than you'd want it and then put it back in the rifle and try it out. Remember of course to test the rifle by loading it then (whilst pointed in a safe direction) giving it a few firm smacks from different directions to see if knocking it will set it off. Obviously you don't want the trigger so light that this occurs!
I think it's worth the hour and a half to two hours I spent on it, so will be doing the same to the trigger unit on my Pro Sport soon.
Hi,
I have polished my CD trigger, but I'm not happy with the result. The first stage is not entirely "clean" and the trigger tends to get stuck just at the 2nd stage if the trigger is set at low pull-weight.
As I see it there can only be one contact point where the problem is. Since I have a rowan trigger with hardened screws and the metal piece where those screws make contact is mirror polished the problem has to be the other contact surface. Have i taken to much metal off (we are talking just the machining marks)? Are the edges to sharp? One theory i have is also that the surfaces are not entirely aligned with each other.
What do you think?
I'm not from GB, so please excuse my grammar
Try turning the rear trigger blade screw in(clockwise) 1/8th turn. This helps at times. It sounds like you have the travel after the first stage completely dialed out which may cause the sears to catch when they try to reset. I actually set my guns up the way your trigger is described. When I take up the first stage and try to release it the blade dangles. I use my guns for target work only, but if they were for hunting, I would add a little to the rear blade screw as well as the weight of pull screw.
You could purchase a set of pin punches (careful as the sets suitable for motorcars are rather too big for firearms), or it is possible to get by with a set of cheap drills (use the back end as a punch and grind the pointy end flat) if the pins are not too solidly in place. If you are really keen, punches for roll pins have a shaped nose to centralise in the pin, but will not work very well with plain pins so you need two sets.
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