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Thread: Idiots guide to classic airgun strips (pt 1)

  1. #136
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    Diana 27, pre-war

    Diana 27 (pre-war)

    This strip relates to the pre-war Diana model 27, a break barrel rifle produced throughout the 1910s up to 1930s. for more information, see Hiller or the excellent articles written by John Atkins in the Collectables series in AirGunner . Its most distinguishing feature is what I term the ‘slab sided’ trigger block housing ... flat sided with a curved top. It really is one of the easiest of rifles to strip and rebuild.

    To strip for a service (mainspring replacement, piston head inspection/replacement) it is not strictly necessary to remove the stock. But if you want to remove it, proceed as:
    Remove butt plate (2 screws). Remove trigger guard (remove the trigger adjusting screw first in order to get at the front guard screw). The butt is held on by a nut attached to a threaded rod: undo it (I used a 17mm box spanner). The stock then slides off the rod.
    There is no need to remove the trigger from its housing but if you wish to, simply undo the trigger pivot bolt and remove it; the trigger will come out of the underside of the housing with its spring. The housing simply unscrews from the cylinder. You may need to pull the trigger back as you begin the removal in order to avoid the cylinder. Spring tension is not great but I always secure the cylinder in a padded vice for extra control. With the housing removed, (the spring guide is integral with the housing), lift out the mainspring. I have used a Meteor mainspring as replacement when needed but take care not to ‘overspring’ the rifle with a ‘too strong’ a spring.

    To remove the piston, release the cocking arm pivot screw and lift out the arm. You could, if you wish, remove the breech/barrel from the breech jaws by removing the keeper screw and then the barrel pivot bolt. The piston then slides out.
    The piston washer will be leather ... a central cylindrical leather disc and an outer cup washer. Both are readily home made if you need a replacement. There is a screw holding them to the end of the cylinder. The breech seal is leather ... again easily made if faulty. I did not remove the cocking latch but if you need to, there is a single screw that secures it. Take care during removal that the latch does not ping away.
    After cleaning and effecting any replacements, reassembly is a direct reversal of the strip.
    In order to screw the action back onto the trigger housing, I found it easiest to clamp the housing in a padded vice .. the slab sides make this easy ... and offer up the cylinder to the housing. When replacing the trigger (if you removed it), I found it easiest to put the trigger in position on the pivot bolt then wiggle the spring into position, taking care to ensure it locates correctly. Alternatively you may find that you can put the spring in position on the trigger blade, engage the other end in position in the housing and then move the trigger blade into position to put the pivot bolt through. Replace cocking arm and stock (if removed,). Add trigger guard, ensuring it fits snugly into the stock ... note that the securing screw at the rear of the action passes through the stock to engage with a thread in the trigger housing. Replace the trigger adjustment screw. This acts to reduce sear engagement when you screw it in, so take care not to screw it in too far and so produce an unsafe trigger. My examples, in .177, produce about 600 – 670 fps depending on pellet.
    Job done.
    Cheers, Phil

  2. #137
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    Milbro Cougar pistol strip (pt1)

    I recently bought a very rough example of one of these and have been having a look at it. The foresight was missing and so was the wire shoulder stock and the trigger adjusting screw. The plasticware was broken and the barrel pivot pin. This will be an ongoing project and I'll have to try to find trigger springs and the other bits. HOWEVER

    Remove the foresight if it has one and the cocking aid. These are secured by what appear to be 4ba grubscrews. The rearsight is on an L shaped frame and is held to the cylinder end plug by a large screw that goes in from the back of the gun. Remove the plasticware by undoing the 4 screws on each side of the pistol (My pistol has a cap under the pistol grip but when I removed it,there was no screw or hole in the frame for a screw, although some of these guns have it). Then remove the 2 screws on each side of the trigger housing that secure it to the cylinder. You do not have to touch the trigger to do the rest of the strip. The missing trigger travel adjustment screw appears to be 6ba and I managed to find one.
    The cocking arm will drop out of the cylinder now. You can remove its pivot pin from the breech block if you want to lube it. Break the barrel and knock out the barrel pivot pin. The barrel and breech block will now come out. If you want to take out the plunger, you have to undo the grubscrew on the LHS of the breech block and the plunger and spring will come out for lubing. If the breech seal needs doing, you can attend to that now as well. The barrel lock up pin can be removed from the breech jaws if you want to do that as well. It is a smaller diameter than the barrel pivot one.
    Push on the cylinder end plug to compress the mainspring and push the cylinder end pin out and slowly release pressure. The plug,guide,spring and piston will all come out. The piston washer on mine was in good nick and as I'm not well set up now, I did not attempt to remove it.It appears to be held on by a screw that comes from the inside of the piston and then there is a nut that would require a forked screwdriver to remove it (like some cadet majors). It appears to be a cup washer set up. Clean and lube your bits and then start to put the thing back together. Assuming you have already done the barrel plunger,breech seal and lock up pin and refitted the cocking arm, it is straight forward.
    Go to part 2 STOP PRESS-- just stripped another one with a different piston set up. This appears to have a tapered pin holding a head on. The piston washer is held by a screw that would require a fork headed screwdriver to remove.
    Last edited by ggggr; 18-02-2013 at 01:01 PM.
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  3. #138
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    Milbro Cougar Pistol strip (pt20

    Replace the piston,mainspring and guide into the cylinder and then push onto the spring with the cylinder end plug. You should be able to wangle the cylinder pin through although you may need to lever a little with your punch to get it through in a couple of goes. Refit the breech block and the barrel pivot pin. Locate the cocking arm in the slot on the cylinder and you trigger housing can be refitted. This is just a matter of locating it and replacing the 4 screws that secure it. It is a lot easier to do than a Bsa Scorpion and seems less likely to strip the threads with the rear screws going into the cylinder end plug rather than just the cylinder walls. Replace the rearsight and tighten the screw that holds it. Refit you cocking aid and foresight to the barrel and replace the grubscrews. Your plasticware can now be replaced.

    It has not yet really been possible to try this gun. not sorted out a decent breech seal yet as not got my bits and bobs with me. Normally punch out a bit of leather and then punch a hole in the centre of that with those cheap riveting kits and then fit it. I need a barrel pivot pin as this is broken/shortened so allows the breech block to move in the jaws. The trigger is heavy but that is down to damaged springs. I refitted the actual trigger spring and the first shot had a light pull, but I assume it has jumped again as it went heavier. It looks a bit like a a meteor mk3-5 trigger spring. There is a torsion spring for the intermediate sear ( a bit like out of the middle of a clothes peg, but this has one lug broken). Then there is a long sear that engage the piston. It looks an easier/better set up than the scorpion but the trouble with these will be spares. not keen on the diecast trigger housing and it looks like the plasticware should play a part in stopping some of the pins from coming loose..
    I notice that it has a Diana 25 mainspring and I guess some of the pins in the gun will be off other Milbro guns (they all seem to have the same cylinder pin).
    Without a proper test, what are my impressions? Well it is heavy and ugly with the full plasticware, but not as bad with the front pieces off. The grub screws for the cocking aid are better than the scorpion slip on idea. never keen on diecast stuff on guns but the trigger housing on this seems a decent idea. Now if Chambers or Nibbs would get some trigger springs made up, I think this had the basis of a decent pistol. Maybe because it was only in production for 4 years, that is part of the problem. I was offered a good boxed one by Alan at Manchester Airguns a few years ago but declined it because of my fears over spares. It is less complicated than I expected it to be but it really is a pity with the spares situation.
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  4. #139
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    Bsa cadet major strip

    Hi im new so please forgive if not right place. I have a Cadet major and have followed instructions (including deburring and finally got all bits apart( thanks to ggggr). However, I cannot find anything that looks like a leather washer on the end of the piston or anything that looks like a washer could screw onto. At the front end of piston is a black rubber seal around the end but thats it. The rifle has been used and seems to work ok. At least it did before I took it apart. Am i looking in the wrong place as I asume the washer should be at the front end of piston ahead of the black rubber seal jobbie. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Bill

  5. #140
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    I find it difficult to visualise what you have found as the Cadet and Cadet Major used leather piston seals. Have a look at the Chambers gun spares web page for the Cadet and you will find an exploded diagram. Maybe you have a leather seal but it has worn flat?
    Any chance of a picture?
    Cheers, Phil

    PS please put any reply in Collectables as a new thread ... we try to keep this thread for 'strip instructions' only.

  6. #141
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    Bsf 30 "junior" strip (pt1)

    A little rifle of the same size as Webley jaguar,junior,ranger, Diana 22, 23 and Weihrauch Hw 25 etc.
    I did not remove the sights but took care not to damage the rearsight when stripping the gun.
    Undo the front stock screw on the under side of the stock and also the front trigger guard screw, which is the rear stock screw. The action should lift out of the stock. There is a pin in the bracket that the front stock screw goes into. The cocking arm rubs on this pin and you need to remove the pin before you remove the barrel. These can be absolute swines on Bsf's but this one was ok. Undo the tiny barrel pivot lock screw and then the barrel pivot screw and remove the barrel and cocking arm from the cylinder. As the cocking arm has rivets I left it on the breech block. If you want to remove the barrel plunger and spring, then tap out the small pin that holds it in the breech block. I used a small piece of wood to push against the plunger and pushed the pin out with a punch. You can clean and lube this now and replace it back in the breech block.
    The cylinder has a knurled end cap on the end and you will see a trigger adjuster screw poking through it. The cap is not threaded but needed a good tap with a small block of wood to shift it as it was very tight. You can remove the trigger adjusting screw now as well.Unhook the trigger spring off the small tang at the back of it and remove the spring. (The other end locates on a pip on the inside of the trigger). You can now tap out the trigger pivot screw and remove the trigger. The pivot screw is the front one of the 2 pins in the cylinder. On this gun, the trigger was difficult to remove because someone had bent the steel a little and burred the outside of the pin hole. I gripped as much of the trigger as I could in soft jaws of a vice and gently moved the cylinder to get it out. I then cleaned up the damage and tapped it back to shape with a small hammer and a bit of flat bar. You can now tap out the rear cylinder pin with the right sized punch. The mainspring is under a fair bit of tension so once the pin moved a bit I put the back of the cylinder onto a bit of wood and pressed down to take the tension as I pushed the pin out. Slowly release tension and the trigger housing,guide and mainspring should come out. The piston was a little stiff coming out and needed some gentle persuasion with levering and tapping. The piston washer is leather and held by a small screw. The buffer washer appeared to be fibre. I removed these to clean the rest of the bits up but did not fit new ones as they were in good condition.Clean all your bits up and go to part 2.
    Last edited by ggggr; 07-02-2013 at 06:13 PM.
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  7. #142
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    Bsf 30 "junior" strip (pt2)

    Get ready to put it back together. The piston was solid but crude It looks like it was made of tube, with the end bit put in and spot welded and then ground off. The piston rod appears to be brazed in and there was some hard crud round it (old flux?).
    Assuming everything is lubed and you have the piston washer back on the piston, replace the piston, mainspring and guide in the cylinder( I used the old mainspring, which was a bit tired). Get the trigger housing bit located and then push down on the cylinder and locate the pin. Get the trigger into the cylinder and line up the pin hole with a punch a "slave" and then push the pin through carefully to keep everything straight. Locate the trigger spring on the pip at the back of the trigger and compress the spring and use a small screwdriver to locate it on the tang on the trigger housing. You can now replace the trigger adjusting screw and endcap, (remembering to line up the screw with the hole in the cap).
    Get your barrel, breech block and cocking arm and feed the cocking arm through the bracket on the cylinder and replace that pin. Replace barrel pivot screw and lock screw. Drop action in stock and replace the front and rear sock bolts. If the holes dont line up, you have probably not tapped the cylinder endcap on far enough.
    I reckon this is a crude little gun. The piston is rough as I mentioned and the back of mine seemed a bit oval. The breech of the gun has 2 spot welds holding it to the cylinder which look ugly when you see them. The trigger is like all the other small guns mentioned but is adjustable. I think this was an early version as there was no scope rail and the trigger housing seemed to be in one piece.
    not seen an Original 22 yet but this little Bsf is better made than the other guns I mentioned, including the Hw25 ( which I think is very overated). Even with the tired spring I left in it, it is fairly punchy and great fun.
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  8. #143
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    Red face Webley Stinger strip down (sort of)

    I couldn't really be bothered doing this one properly as You cannot get spares for them as far as I know. However cut and pasted this bit that I put up on another thread and hopefully it might help if you are having problems.


    Well the one I bought was pretty crappy at pushing the bb,s out and often did not fire. I decided to strip and "tune" it.
    If you knock out the pin at the back that is through the "Slider?" , then you can lift it off to reveal gat like internals. A quick clean and lube of the "cylinder thingy", which is a monkey metal block and it was ready to look at the other bit.
    If you unscrew the bolt at the front underside of the pistol, then you can lift out the barrel and the band that holds it in place. As you lift it out,you can see a Webley hawk like breech seal. This and the barrel push up against something call a "gate". The "cylinder thingy" transfer port passes through the centre of this "gate" from the other side. The problem is the sealing of it/barrel/breech.
    While you are at it, you can have a look at the "gate" and you will see a little clip on bit of plastic on top. This is where the bb,s feed into. You will also see a small pin at the bottom of the "gate". This is a little plastic plunger and spring for locating the bb,s.
    Anyways---when you cock the gun, a bb drops into the "gate" and the transfer port on the "cylinder thingy" pushes the bb into the front of the breech seal. The mighty power of the gun is then supposed to dislodge the bb and send it at great velocity towards the target.
    I was not happy with the seal arrangement and tried various combinations of O rings to try to get a better seal. Unless you have something very thin on the "gate" side, the barrel cannot push in or the breech seal fouls on the ID of the O ring.
    Obviously the breech seal was holding the bb a bit too tight or maybe not sealing properly. 3 options --- (1) try to open the ID of the existing seal so it did not grip the bb to much (2) try the same with 2 small O rings (3) make a leather one.
    OPTION (3)---usng a bit of a hardened seal I made the other week, I filed the OD until if fitted the barrel. Then I opened up the ID with a gimlet and then a drill bit I turned with my fingers, until it would hold a bb but the bb would push through easily. Too slack and the bb would just fall out of the barrel.
    I put a little Sm 50 on the seal and have since fired about 150 shots with no problems.
    I hope this is of some use to someone on here who may have problems with their gun.
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    A guide to dismantling and reassembling the Theoben 'H.E.' gas ram

    As in the title really....... A while ago I decided to renew the seals in my Fenman. It had become quite stiff to cock and power was a little lower than I wanted. Curiosity was also partly to blame! A commentary on the process, together with photographs will be linked by the mods shortly I think.

    As the file was too big for the internal file host, the PDF file for the stripdown can be found here.
    Last edited by Punchsteve; 22-03-2013 at 08:23 PM. Reason: adding file

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    Crosman 2200 Magnum Pt 1 ~ strip

    CROSMAN 2200 MAGNUM

    Warning: taking this rifle apart is not difficult but putting the receiver components back together can be very fiddly, so if you are prepared to take the task on, give yourself plenty of time. Renewing the pump head seal is easy with no pitfalls.

    Pump head seal: You need to remove the complete pump assembly, but there is no need to strip the receiver components. Remove the band that holds the barrel to the pump tube, one screw secures the two halves. Pull off the black cap underneath the band halves. There is a roll pin holding the pump rod link to the pump cylinder. Remove the pin. Remove a black plastic end cap from the pump cylinder tube and pull the pump assembly out of the cylinder. The pump head seal is a push fit on the end of the assembly ... part 760-140 (same part for the Crosman 2100, 760 and 766 and most likely other Crosman rifles). Reassembly is simply a reversal of these steps.

    Parts inside receiver: To replace most receiver parts there is no need to remove the pump assembly. However, if you wish to service or replace the valve assembly or transfer port then you should remove the pump assembly as it makes handling so much easier.

    To split the receiver halves, remove the three screws from the lh receiver side but keep the halves together. Place the rifle lh side down on a table and slowly begin to lift the rh receiver side up from the lh side. As you do this, watch out for the sear spring which will appear in the gap between the two halves just in front of the trigger housing. It is unlikely to ping away, but be prepared as it will almost certainly emerge through the gap as you separate the receiver halves. Continue lifting the rh receiver until it comes away over the cocking lever. You will be left with the trigger, sears, valve and hammer mechanisms in place on the lh receiver. All reassembly operations must be done with the lh receiver flat on the table, assembling the parts on this part before adding the rh receiver.

    Lift away the little black plastic ring that holds the pump arm firm on the right side of the receiver. Do not forget it.

    Lift away the sear spring mentioned earlier, noting that it locates on a peg on the underside of the sear bar. Lift away the steel right angled black part (trigger bar) sitting on top of the sear bar, then a washer, then the sear bar. There is no need to remove the trigger blade and the safety catch and catch spring. They will sit where they are quite happily.

    Before continuing, look at how the pump tube and barrel assembly lies in the receiver; hopefully it will not have jolted free when you split the halves. Note the lh end hole in the pump tube and the black plastic part visible through the hole and the end of the tube. This is a spring guide for the hammer spring. The sides of this guide are flat and have a hole passing through them. One of the receiver securing screws passes through this hole. To access the valve mechanism, lift the barrel and pump tube away from the receiver. As you do this, the hammer and its spring will push the black plastic guide out of the tube, but they should not ‘ping away’. The hammer cocking lever and pellet probe assembly ... the black plastic bits that sit on top and rear of the barrel will lift away at the same time. The barrel and pump tube are not secured together and can be simply separated. No doubt the cocking lever parts will fall away as well but do not panic. Lift barrel off the pump tube. The transfer port should remain secure inside the valve housing that is in the pump tube. Remove the hammer, hammer spring and spring guide.

    My valve housing, situated in the lh end of the pump tube, had a blow off valve fitted to the underside of the main valve housing; a brass cylinder about 12mm long x 8mm diameter dangling from the underside of the pump tube. It is a push fit in the valve housing so just pull it free. To access and service the valve mechanism you must push the valve (dowel will do it), towards the rh end of the pump tube; it simply pops out. Note the hammer pin at the lh end and a domed rh end with O ring seal. To access the inside of the valve, the rh end (domed) part unscrews but it may be tight. There is another O ring to seal this end part into the valve cylinder. Kits are available containing all the parts needed to service the valve, although if you suspect the valve itself is OK it may be worth trying just a new O ring on the valve body to give a better seal against the pump tube.
    Look at the transfer port on the valve body; there should be a seal inside. Renew it if it looks worn.

    Reassembly notes in Pt2, next.

    Cheers, Phil

  11. #146
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    Crosman 2200 Magnum Pt2 ~ reassembly

    Reassembly: When you are satisfied with the valve mechanism, replace it in the pump tube, apply a little Pelgun oil to the sealing O ring and push the valve back down the tube ... hammer pin to the left. Take care not to nick the O ring on the pump slot as you do so. Make sure the transfer port lines up with its hole in the tube. Now is a good time to replace the blow off valve, if fitted. Simply push it back into place under the valve assembly.

    Place the hammer, spring and spring guide into the pump tube. Add the cocking lever components onto the top of the barrel assembly. Reassemble the barrel to the pump tube, making sure transfer tube on the barrel sits inside the port on the tube and that the peg on the hammer locates in the slot in the cocking lever assembly and that when you move the cocking lever to the left it takes the hammer with it. Get the lh receiver part, complete with stock attached, ready in front of you on the table. Now, hold the tube and barrel assembly in your right hand and with your left hand push the spring guide into the tube, making sure the flat sides of the guide are facing up and down so that when you push the guide into the tube you can see the hole in the guide through the hole on top of the tube. While holding the barrel and tube in position with the spring guide, lower the assembly onto the lh receiver such that the hole in the underside of the lh end of the tube locates on the peg in the receiver. It should go neatly into place, retaining the spring guide as it does so. It will, hopefully, stay put while you continue:

    Replace the pin for the trigger sear bar in its hole, followed by the sear bar, a washer, and the right angled black trigger bar on top. The rounded flat section points to the top of the action, the side with a bent end goes on bottom left. Locate the trigger sear bar ‘sears’ into the slot on the underside of the pump tube. Now ... before you forget, replace the pump lever holding bit on the right side of the receiver. So far, so good. Now for the fiddly bits.

    Replace the sear spring... over the lower peg on the sear bar and tucked onto the underside (bottom edge) of the lh receiver. Now slowly add the rh receiver part, keeping it flat as you first pass it over the cocking arm and then locate the lh side where it goes into the stock. Lower it onto the lh receiver side. Keep pushing down until the bottom edge, closest to you is just touching the top of the sear spring. You now need to push this spring back into the receiver as you continue to lower the rh receiver onto the lh one. Push it correctly and the receiver will come down far enough to hold the spring in place. I can now guarantee that the left hand side has become stuck because the safety catch is not locating in its hole in the rh receiver part. You need to get a small screwdriver or needle and tease the safety catch into position to allow the rh receiver to fall/push onto the lh one. Hopefully, as the receiver halves come together, the sear spring will take up its correct position in the receiver. But be warned: it is very easy to trap a coil or part coil of this spring as you bring the receiver halves together. Attempts to correct this by holding the receivers apart while you try to fiddle the spring into position are doomed to failure; the spring may come adrift of the sear or flip over completely. Far better to admit defeat and start again.

    But, hopefully, you have succeeded. Now, holding the receiver halves together, cock the trigger and check it works (Do not pump air in). Success? Now add the central screw that holds the stock halves together. Try cocking and firing again a few times. If this fails, it shows that the trigger bar and sear bar have not seated correctly. The only cure is to start again.

    If you removed the pump assembly, replace it along with the end band.

    Job done ...


    Cheers, Phil.
    Note: I have not yet opened up the blow off valve so cannot comment on it.

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    Pre War Diana Modell 5 strip (part 1)

    been waiting to geta look at one of these for a while. It is very similar to the Slavia ZVP copy to strip.
    Remove the sights if you want.
    Undo the trigger guard screw and then unhook the guard from its pin and remove it. Remove the 4 grip screws. The action should now lift out of the grips. Watch out for the trigger spring, which will probably stay in the grips. Undo the cocking arm lock screw and pivot screw. Slide the cocking arm forwards until the pin lines up with the big hole in the trigger housing and then remove the pin. The arm should now slide out. Undo the barrel pivot lock screw and barrel pivot and remove the barrel and breech block. If you want to get to the plunger, Depress it a bit and unscrew the grub screw on the LHS of the breech block. The plunger and spring should now come out. Clean them, lube them and replace them and the grub screw.
    Tap out the trigger pin and remove the trigger and then do the same with the sear.
    Remove the small screw in the cylinder end cap. Unscrew the cap, keeping pressure on. When it is undone, the guide,mainspring and piston should come out. The piston has a leather washer set up held by a screw if you want to replace it.
    Clean off your bits and go to part 2
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  13. #148
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    Pre War Diana Modell 5 strip (part 2)

    With your bits cleaned and lubed, replace the piston, mainspring and guide into the cylinder. Compress the spring and screw on the endcap and then replace the screw on the cap.
    To compress the spring and get the cap on, I place the breech jaws of the cylinder onto a piece card on a piece of wood and then press down from above with the cap. You should be able to get enough of a bite if you turn both hands and then keep the weight on while you get another bite with one hand.
    Replace the barrel, pivot screw and lock screw (You,ve already re fitted the plunger,spring and grub screw---Remember?). Locate the cocking arm into the trigger housing and line it up with the big hole and replace the pin. Locate the cocking arm in the breech block and replace the pivot and lock screws.
    Replace the sear and it,s pin and then the trigger and it's pin. You should be able to cock and release the gun now to check you have it in the right place.
    Put the trigger spring into the hole in the grips and lower the action into the grips, checking the spring is going into the hole in the sear.
    Replace the 4 grip screws and then hook the trigger guard onto its pin and refit the screw into the grip.
    only had a quick go with this gun and have been told by the previous owner he cut down the mainspring a little. He also built up the foresight with weld as these guns often shoot high (along with the Slavia ZVP and Chinese Copies). It seems a nice accurate pistol but kicks up a little, which putting down the the lug on the piston, adding weight.
    I like this and the Slavia. Nice simple designs.
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    ASI/Gamo Falcon pistol strip

    I bought a dodgy one of these recently. On stripping it down, I found that not only had the windage screw on the rearsight been broken and the spring and bb gone missing, but the spring and bb were missing off the safety and the transfer port was also absent.

    Anyhow--a basic strip. Undo the screw under the rearsight and remove it, looking out for the 2 springs under it. Undo the rear grip screw, near the rear sight and the 2 fore screws. The one near the trigger is an adjuster screw and can stay put.
    The action will lift out of the grips now. Lift the cocking arm out of the cylinder slot. Put weight on the cylinder end plug and tap out the cylinder end pin. When the pin is out the endplug/guide (it is a one piece plastic set up) will come out and you can remove the mainspring and piston. The pin is narrower in the centre because the rear grip screw holds it in place.
    There is a screw at the front LHS of the cylinder. If you undo this, the loading tap can be taken out. You can now get to the breech seals and transfer port. There is one seal on the barrel side and one on the transfer port side. They seem easy enough to change. http://gunspares.co.uk/shopdisplaypr...=Falcon+Pistol .If the transfer port needs changing or the O ring on the port (not the breech seal) then it pushes into the cylinder easily enough. When you remove it, you can replace the O ring on it into the narrow one of the 2 grooves. After cleaning up and lubing, they can be pushed back into the cylinder pointy end first. I thought I might have to make up a tool but it went in easily enough with just a piece of dowel.
    The piston seal on mine was leather but the buffer was plastic and damaged. I made up a leather disc to replace it. Go to part 2
    Last edited by ggggr; 16-04-2013 at 03:28 PM.
    Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"

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    ggggr is offline part time super hero and seeker of justice
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    ASI/Gamo Falcon pistol strip (pt2)

    With your bits cleaned and lubed, replace the piston, mainspring and guide/endplug. Put weight on the endplug and you should be able to locate the cylinder end pin. Replace the cocking arm in the cylinder slot. I did not try to remove the cocking arm or linkage because of the rivets. You should be able to replace the breech seals with a small screwdriver or similar. I fitted them with the flat edges to the cylinder and barrel and the stepped edges to face the loading tap. Replace the tap and locate and tighten up the pivot screw.
    Refit the grips and then the rearsight. Gently push the rearsight down against the 2 springs until you can locate the elevation adjusting screw.
    I did not really go into the trigger on this other than to sort out a bb and spring for the safety catch. There are 3 self tapping screws on the RHS of the grips. If you undo these, the grips should ease apart. The safety slides across to block the trigger. I improvised a cut down spring from a lighter and a bb to locate the safety.
    I tried the gun afterwards. It was firing a little high for me at 7 yards, with the rearsight on the lowest setting. It was accurate but not very much fun to shoot. The pistol is light and has a pretty good sight picture. The grips are not very solid. The tap is a little fiddly to use but you will probably get used to it.
    While this was an easy strip and there is nothing wrong with the gun as such, it is not my cup of tea. Between this and the Diana Modell 5 I did previously, I know which one my money would be on to last ANOTHER 70 years
    Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"

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