Use of Danish Oil for Stock Finishing

[datadave]

Has anyone tried using Danish Oil for stock finishing? Until recently I'd never heard of it, but a friend who's into longbows uses it to finish his arrow shafts. He reckons it gives a durable, hard-wearing but silk - to matt finish. I'm in process of finishing a stock and ready to oil, but I'm unsure whether to use linseed oil, tung oil or one of the propriety ones eg: Tru Oil. Linseed oil is readily available and reasonably cheap, but I'm not sure how it'll turn out. The stock is some kind of ? far eastern beech?

What do people recommend? I'm after a more traditional, satin oiled finish if possible rather than a high gloss.

Cheers everybody - datadave

[DESERT FOX]

I tried numerous oils on my stocks without getting a nice finish EG. Walnut oil, Boiled Linseed oil.
It wasnt till i tried Danish oil that the stock really looked great.It brought out patterns in the wood that none of the others did.
Im a big Danish oil fan..

[tinbum]

And its a damn tough finish when dried!

[Phil4450]

we use danish oil on everything we make in the workshop unless the customer specifies other wise great smell too

[p.sharp]

I've yet to see an oiled beech stock that doesn't resemble a kitchen chopping board / rolling pin.

Would gladly be proven otherwise though..

[moonshiner]

i used danish oil on a couple of stocks,gives a brilliant finish,but only put thin layers on and allow to dry fully inbetween coats,the first one i did i went a bit heavy with the oil and it stayed tacky for ages after

[nige346]

I use both Danish Oil and Tru-Oil both to good effect, If your after a satin sheen as I normally require for my target rifles oil to fill the grain without going too heavy then once dried for a couple of days rub the stock over with Stock Sheen/Conditioner which is like a VERY fine rubbing compound (Birchwood Casey make this), This will give a smooth coat with a satin/semi matt sheen, The main thing with oil is not to apply too much and build it up, as each coat dries rub over gently with 000 wire wool and apply the next until you get a smooth coat with the grain filled, (apologies if you already know this)

[smallman28]

I have only ever used linseed oil,mainly cause it is cheap and it works for me
After some experimenting I have found it best to warm the stock up first with something like a hair dryer and then to rub in a very small amount of oil with your hands.
Once it has dried for about 24 hours I then rub the stock down with some fine wire wool to get it smooth before doing the same process again.
I have only done this 4-5 times at most and it starts to develop a nice sheen without being too shiny.
I dare so if you did more it more and worked the oil in for longer you would get more of a shine.

[r4robert]

I've used quite a lot of Danish oil and can unequivocally recommend it for timber kitchen worktops

Did all the worktops in our new kitchen and they look great. Well, they look great until they get scratched. Then they look decidedly second hand.

You need to understand that, despite the word "Oil", it is actually a type of varnish, and therefore like any other varnish it DOES produce a terrific finish that looks $1m.

However, unlike an oiled finish it scratches. Simple as that.

In reality, I re-coat our timber worktops every 6-12 months depending on how tired (scratched) they are getting.

I have just spent some time rubbing hot walnut oil in to the stock of my R10, and it looks good and brings out the grain, etc. But best of all, it does not show scratches or marks where I have 'caught' the gun, and if there is an area that looks a tad worn, then a coat of oil can be applied to that area alone. Do that with varnish and you will see where it has been 'touched up'!

So stick to real oil and avoid 'varnish type' products if I were you.

Personal opinion

Cheers,
Robert

[nige346]

Not sure whats in Tru-Oil but I've never had a problem with scratches, I do think some people put it on way to thick though almost painting the gun with it, I normally just put some on a rag and rub into the wood, The sheen conditioner (or for a glossy finish wax) provide's a protective coat, I have used this method for both hunting and target rifles without any issues and very good results, Warming the wood "gently" does help as it opens the grain allowing the oil to penetrate, What is however important is removing the old finish before attempting to apply anything, this is normally do with wire wool and denatured alcohol, the more time spent prepping the better and more durable the finish will be.

[richardscar]

dont forget ballistol

someone mentioned it in a previous thread ...so i got some
soaks into the wood , enhances the grain, protects and is not "varnishy" at all . apply it, put gun back in bag . nest time you get it out no stickyness or shine just better colour and detail ....
job done

[valboskie]

Another option you may consider is ccl conditioning oil
I was recommended that by Geordie the stock maker for my ginb stock
And it came out brilliant.
Just apply thin layer and leave it for 30 to 45 minutes then work in the oil with the heel of your hand till friction heats it up then wipe of any excess don't buff just a gentle wipe.
Don't be in a rush just do one coat a night till you get your desired finish.


I hope this is of some help to you.

http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps11e06e67.jpg

[nat1]

Most Danish oil is tung oil based., so it is a proper oil! it will of course have hardeners and resins in the mix and give a satin finish, a semi gloss can be achieved with more coats and plenty of burnishing/polishing.

Every thing i've made in my signature has Danish oil on,including these two fiddle-back maple stocks=





I've also had good results with boiled linseed and pure tung oil,use what ever you prefer.
Atb Woody.