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Thread: the best way to get rid of pitting on a project rifle

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by valboskie View Post
    ...I was thinking of buying a grinding wheel and buying some polishing mops for it
    To save a bit of labour but im not sure if it will work.
    Has anyone tried this method to get the pitting out.
    Atb
    David
    I'd say you have nothing to lose. I used fine diamond files on some areas as I was keen to preserve the sharpness on all the edges and stampings. Finding something isn't aggressive enough isn't really a problem, just a few minutes wasted, going the other way results in damage which could take hours to polish out.

    Given the original deep pitting you need to be quite aggressive to start off with. However, I do feel that I could have gone to the polishing mops earlier in the process, and think that the sisal wheel with compound would have saved time. That little bit of compliance in the polishing mop may help to "reach in" and abrade the pitted areas.

    I have an old Diana 22 which is very tatty, and may try a more aggressive approach by using a brass wire wheel from the off and then going to the polishing mops, which would dramatically reduce the amount of wet'n'dry used.

  2. #47
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    If you imagine a pit as a pothole.. if it is deep you want to get the edges of the hole tapering into it so that when its blued it will be less apparent... the only way to completely (and pedantically!) Get rid of all pitting is to bring all the surrounding material diwn to the same depth as the deepest pit! As said earlier in this thread, trying to smooth out the pits locally should be enough for a satisfactory finish. Bluing will not hide any pits, but as long as they dont have defined edges it should look good enough.
    Personally ive never went the whole hog and really tried for a perfect finish.. I just dont have the tools to make it simple.. like you I have spent hours and hours with wet n dry getting it as good as I can then cold bluing...ive never had a gun hot blued or rust blued so I really have no knowledge of how these finishes deal with faint pitting. I imagine its pretty much the same.
    As long as I get a nice even blue I dont mind tiny blemishes where pitting used to be.. after all its an old gun.. as long as its protected from further rusting im happy... its like picking up a mangy mutt from the pound!
    Donald

  3. #48
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    Looking at micks hw77 and reading his post again you could see pitting before he rust blued it
    And it Was all gone when he had given finished.
    The rust bluing fills in the pitting so I won't need perfection.
    Donald if you want me to chip in for half the the cost of any supplies you need for the rust bluing
    That's no problem at all just let me know.
    Cheers
    David

  4. #49
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    Haha .. my slow rust bluing has emphasis on the sloooow!

    After looking at some of these recipes a few of them say to always add water to the acid..I wonder if that could have been a factor in my failed attempt... ive got this old victor here.. ill get that stripped back and give it a bash... I wouldnt feel comfortable dunking your gun into the fume box without at least 50% certainty that it will work dave!!! 🔫
    Donald

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Yes Phil.

    Nice fresh wee, but so far no rust.

    Even using my heated cabinet I can't get acid fumes to rust a test piece --- the best result I have achieved in this damp weather is by rubbing brick cleaning acid onto the test piece and then hanging the piece in the damp air.

    I may be better off putting water in the heated cabinet to create a damp box and then put the piece in this after wiping with acid.

    Another liquid I'm trying as a rusting agent is plumbing flux as this seems to attack steel when wiped on it.



    All the best Mick
    Mick

    Mercury Bichloride

    Be careful though as its effectively mercury salt, not as dangerous as it sounds but hands, eyes, outdoors..

    Rusts anything very rapidly

    Nearly as good is Ammonium Chloride, not nearly as dangerous and available on the bay

    Rich
    Last edited by RichardH; 18-02-2014 at 07:00 PM.

  6. #51
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Slight correction to the previous post. Its mercury bichloride and ammonium chloride you mean, not bichlorate or chlorate. Mercury bichlorate, if you could even get it, would blow your head off as soon as look at you. I would recommend ammonium chloride as an excellent rusting agent, easy to get and completely harmless (unless you ate a load).

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccdjg View Post
    Slight correction to the previous post. Its mercury bichloride and ammonium chloride you mean, not bichlorate or chlorate. Mercury bichlorate, if you could even get it, would blow your head off as soon as look at you. I would recommend ammonium chloride as an excellent rusting agent, easy to get and completely harmless (unless you ate a load).
    Poxy spellchecker, corrected now

    Be careful

  8. #53
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    Richard Do you use a buff and compound when you polish up an action before bluing
    If you do is the buff strong enough to get rid of the pitting.

    I was looking at dremmil type tools plus bench grinders and replacing the stones with mops to get rid of the pitting.
    Atb
    David

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickenbacker View Post
    Hiya Mick

    I guess you can't get the American bluing solution over here, but have you tried anything like 'Gunguard Slow Blue Solution'?

    About a third the way down the page here:

    http://www.blackleyandson.com/acatal...tals.html#a112

    ATB - Phil
    Hi Phil


    The thing that originally attracted me to the fume bluing process was the simplicity of it --- dangle your gun in acid fumes to rust it, then boil it in water and the red rust goes black.

    Unfortunately the weather seems to have a big effect on the rusting process; I’m still experimenting every day with my heated cabinet to try to find the correct temperature.

    I’d like to crack the Acid Fume process before moving on to other liquids but I may well end up buying a rusting liquid just so I can get a move on with some guns.




    All the best Mick

  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
    Mick

    Mercury Bichloride

    Be careful though as its effectively mercury salt, not as dangerous as it sounds but hands, eyes, outdoors..

    Rusts anything very rapidly

    Nearly as good is Ammonium Chloride, not nearly as dangerous and available on the bay

    Rich

    Cheers for that Richard

    You've made me realise I have access to tons of Ammonium Nitrate, which is also an oxidizing agent --- if this works it would be great for David and Donald as it's available off the shelf as a plant fertilizer.





    All the best Mick

  11. #56
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    superb, let us know...
    Donald

  12. #57
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    How would you use ammonium nitrate
    Is it fume like with the brick and mortar cleaner or do you brush it on in liquid format.
    Atb
    David

  13. #58
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    ammonium nitrate how do i use this with it being safer than acid to use
    any info on how to go about it would be brilliant
    has anyone got any pictures of any rifles they have used this product on
    atb
    david

  14. #59
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    interesting reading in this thread
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/arch.../t-153822.html
    cheers
    david

  15. #60
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    http://www.blindhogg.com/homemadesalts.html
    how to make home made bluing salts another interesting read

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