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Thread: Umerex Colt 1911 - Backstrap Safety

  1. #16
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    Point taken, I'll see what is like to use first.

  2. #17
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    Two of gingernuts didn't work well at all, quite sick. Talking about his collection of Colts. Regarding the original 1911 Colt .45 ACP, John Browning did not have a grip safety on it, but the US Army made him design one because some beaurocrat thought it was a good idea, and complicated a simple pistol that formally had nice clean lines. I had four different .45 autos, Colt, Star, Llama and Norinco. The Star was the only one without a grip safety. Of course on the full bore pistol the grip safety needs to be pinned or fixed down solidly due to the heavy recoil during the firing cycle. Especially during sustained fire of many rounds during practical pistol competitions I have had things come to pieces like adjustable sights which just disintegrate. In comparison the Umarex Colt .177 is less than a pussycat in operation and does not need over engineered solutions.

    Baz
    Last edited by Benelli B76; 21-04-2014 at 02:26 AM.

  3. #18
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    Umerex Colt 1911 – Five Minute Mod

    The used Colt 1911 Co2 pistol arrived, and as expected, the backstrap safety is rather annoying (heavy/lumpy).

    I planned to lock the backstrap safety in the firing position using Sugru. However, I found that on my pistol, all that was required was to remove the spring from underneath the backstrap. Afterwards, the backstrap safety either stays/clicks in the closed position (Fire) once compressed, or if you push the upper part of the backstrap towards the beaver tail, it pops back out (pseudo Safe). This will probably vary from pistol to pistol depending on how much friction exists within the action. SA and DA is now a pleasure to use!

    This minor mod took a few minutes to carry out, all you need is a pin punch and a pair of bent nose pliers, or similar. The main safety is of course not affected (which disconnects trigger/hammer), although as we know, one should not rely on mechanical safeties alone.

    Before – Backstrap Sprung Out (Safe):
    http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps1be1be87.jpg

    Remove pin:
    http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps0e325552.jpg

    Slide out the lower back strap:
    http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps8833efef.jpg

    Remove the spring from underneath the backstrap safety:
    http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps33ef67aa.jpg

    Slide in the lower backstrap and re-fit the pin:
    http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...pseca65fe2.jpg

    After – Backstrap Compressed (Fire)
    http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps00b272c8.jpg

  4. #19
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    Made a note of that'

  5. #20
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    Having checked I think you remove that spring and then add the sugru to stop the backstrap safety moving at all.
    I would not want the strap clicking in and out.

  6. #21
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    I agree that using sugru will securely fix down the backstrap safety, and I may well do that down the line

    The spring was packed with grease, so the area would need a good cleaning/degreasing before applying the sugru. The other reason I did not apply sugru just yet is that it would need to be raked out again if I decide to remove the backstrap safety itself to remove the floppy transfer bar.

    This might vary from pistol to pistol, but on mine with the spring removed, and the hammer down, once the backstrap safety is pressed in, it remains nicely flat (it does not clack). So DA is very straightforward. Only when the hammer is pulled back for SA is the backstrap safety free to move, but as my palm is on the backstrap (and there is no resistance from the spring or transfer bar trying to lift the hammer), the backstrap safety again remains nicely flat (and the transfer bar in the correct place near the firing pin), so SA works well for me.

    Fixing down the backstrap safety with sugru will undoultedly ensure a more reliable result (i.e. no spurious movement of the backstrap safety and transfer bar).

  7. #22
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    I know this is kind of off topic but I have one of these and was tempted to try and modify it for more power. I'm currently getting around 2.6ft lbs average from my 1911 with 7grn wadcutters but thought that combining increased hammer spring and opening up the release valve might be able to yield another ft lb. I know that the easiest 'mod' you can do with these co2 pistols is use really heavy, say FAC pellets but was wondering how feasible what I'm about to attempt would be. I imagine shot count would fall by at least 50%... Also, noticed that the co2 cools ridiculously quickly on these co2 pistols and I'm certain it's because they're in contact with so much metal. I'm thinking that a really simple additional mod would be to foam line the inside of the co2 housing

  8. #23
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    You might be best with a new thread to catch attention to this question. Sure some of the experts on here will know the answer.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by oling View Post
    I know this is kind of off topic but I have one of these and was tempted to try and modify it for more power. I'm currently getting around 2.6ft lbs average from my 1911 with 7grn wadcutters but thought that combining increased hammer spring and opening up the release valve might be able to yield another ft lb. I know that the easiest 'mod' you can do with these co2 pistols is use really heavy, say FAC pellets but was wondering how feasible what I'm about to attempt would be. I imagine shot count would fall by at least 50%... Also, noticed that the co2 cools ridiculously quickly on these co2 pistols and I'm certain it's because they're in contact with so much metal. I'm thinking that a really simple additional mod would be to foam line the inside of the co2 housing
    My first question would be why? The Umarexes aren't really designed to put out oodles of power- if you want raw power for whatever reason (?) go for a 2240, Benjamin or the like. You may well find putting a "FAC weight" pellet in a trifle disappointing. AFAIK nobody has managed to get a power gain like you mention on a Umarex, so you are probably wasting your time.

    Here we go: http://umarexboysclubforum.myfinefor...about2476.html Someone wanting to get a CP99 up to legal limit, no less. Heaven knows why???

  10. #25
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    The cooling is caused by rapid evaporation of the CO2 from a liquid state to a gas when it is released. It is the same phenomena with all CO2 pistols not just Umarex. The more rapid shots you make the more cooling takes place. Anyone who has seen a 12 grm capsule leaking will see the frosting take place.

    Baz

  11. #26
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    I have a few Umarex 1911 s.
    They vary in power even from new ,and accuracy.

    The two I have that have been pinned and have a screw fitted to the hammer head produce about 50 fps more than the others and are more accurate.
    They both reach over 400 fps whilst my standard ones can be as low as 320.
    They are more accurate because I dont have to pull the backstrap in.
    So these little mods are a good idea.

    On a contentious note I matched a Centenary 1911 against my Tangfolio Witness yesterday and the TFW outshot the 1911 on a 6 yard target and 10 metre cans.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    The cooling is caused by rapid evaporation of the CO2 from a liquid state to a gas when it is released. It is the same phenomena with all CO2 pistols not just Umarex. The more rapid shots you make the more cooling takes place. Anyone who has seen a 12 grm capsule leaking will see the frosting take place.

    Baz
    I am well aware of that but none of the BB pistol I shoot seem to cool anywhere near as quickly as the Umarex co2 replicas and I believe that's because the process is augmented by so much metal contact.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by gingernut View Post
    I have a few Umarex 1911 s.
    They vary in power even from new ,and accuracy.

    The two I have that have been pinned and have a screw fitted to the hammer head produce about 50 fps more than the others and are more accurate.
    They both reach over 400 fps whilst my standard ones can be as low as 320.
    They are more accurate because I dont have to pull the backstrap in.
    So these little mods are a good idea.

    On a contentious note I matched a Centenary 1911 against my Tangfolio Witness yesterday and the TFW outshot the 1911 on a 6 yard target and 10 metre cans.
    Interesting. I have the backstrap pinned on mine, but first I have heard of the screw/hammer set up. Does it have any impact on wear and tear?

  14. #29
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    It might!
    I should have clarified that these two guns have had the transfer plate in front of the valve removed as well.
    So your hammer with the screw in is hitting the valve hard and direct.
    The difference would be quite clear if you shot one of them!
    Wait and see.If it wrecks the gun I will let you know.

    But other Umarex models hit the valve direct.
    The transfer plate on the Colt is to make the grip safety work-badly.

    I should also make the point that these mods take you nowhere near the legal limit.
    They just make the gun work better.

  15. #30
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    Thanks to all the comments regarding the backstrap safety workarounds. I now a pistol that is much more pleasing to use, and have the option to fix the backstrap safety down securely, and to do the hammer bolt job (when I work out where to get a suitable tap and bolt from).
    ATB

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