Ultrasonic cleaner on the cylinder is all I've needed
True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
TANSTAAFL
just spoken to the club member, the reason he couldn't seat bullets in two of the chambers, was due to a bit of lead in each of them. Seems using too heavy a load does something to the hollow base of these bullets and breaks them off.
he is using Fiochi primers which are difficult to remove, will try his CCI next time and 3 grns of powder instead of 4
And then an ice hockey game broke out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0woZ...layer_embedded
son got MOM in world championships: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoCcYwNJxv4
just spoken to the club member, the reason he couldn't seat bullets in two of the chambers, was due to a bit of lead in each of them. Seems using too heavy a load does something to the hollow base of these bullets and breaks them off.
he is using Fiochi primers which are difficult to remove, will try his CCI next time and 3 grns of powder instead of 4
as for the indexing failing on 2 chambers, keeping the spindle cleaned and lubed and firmly pulling the hammer back cures it
And then an ice hockey game broke out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0woZ...layer_embedded
son got MOM in world championships: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoCcYwNJxv4
Just had time for a quick test on mine tonight after sorting my probationers out.
Using 3.5gr of Blue Dot with the HBWC lead bullets. Had the same issue with cylinder rotation after firing a couple of shots, though they were accurate when fired. I'll try another test on Monday with a well-lubed spindle.
Mine has no problems if only loading one chamber, only seems to stick if more than one primer is involved. Cylinder lockup and timing appears perfect without any chambers loaded.
Tested a full cylinder with caps only as well and they all fired sequentially with no problems. Only seem to get jams when firing actual bullets ...
NSRA and NRA qualified RCO.
make sure the cylinder is free enough to make it spin on the spindle, if it's tight'ish, the pawl that rotates the cylinder will not be able to move it very easily
And then an ice hockey game broke out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0woZ...layer_embedded
son got MOM in world championships: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoCcYwNJxv4
I don't think the chambers would have been undersized, not allowing the bullets to be seated properly.
I think your friend was shooting hollow base wad cutters and he used to much powder.
This will blow two or three mm off the bottom of the skirt of the wad cutter leaving it in the cylinder.
The next bullet wont seat properly.
I know this because I made the same mistake.
I had to use a screw extractor set or "easy out" to remove the skirt from the cylinder.
This will get it out without damaging the cylinder.
4Gn of Blue Dot or 3.5Gn or less of Herco is enough to shoot hollow base wad cutters without any problem.
I also found a large paper clip straightened out is perfect for pushing out the spent primers.
The cylinders are stainless steel and will not get damaged easily.
So far I have tried Hoppes copper/Lead solvent, works OK.
I have also tried Bore Foam on the barrel & cylinder, also works OK.
A friend suggested I tried KG1 ( A carbon/powder solvent ), will get some of this and give it a go, hopefully will be better than the other two above.
I also finish off by giving the Firearm a spray with Brunox, and wipe down with a silicon gun cloth when done.
It would be nice to find a product that works well, along with a nylon brush for scrubbing the bottom of the cylinder to get it spotless.
The nylon brush I have only really scrubs the sides.
I also use an undersized bronze brush wrapped in a large cotton patch to clean the cylinder ( Same method I use on black powder firearms )
I have not had an issue on the range with reloading into a dirty cylinder.
I have shot in excess of 60 bullets on one occasion without any issue.
[QUOTE=Frag Muppet;6381080]<snip>
It would be nice to find a product that works well, along with a nylon brush for scrubbing the bottom of the cylinder to get it spotless.
The nylon brush I have only really scrubs the sides.
<SNIP>
For my .44 BP guns I use a tool I made from an old electric toothbrush. Some have a round brush which can be easily removed. Trim it down to fit the cylinder with a Stanley knife, and glue it on to a bit of dowel (I used a 5.56mm case) and you can reach the bottom of the cylinder and give it a twirl to clean. Also works well on nipple recesses.
True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
TANSTAAFL
I have experimented already with different loads of Blue Dot.
4 Gn is pretty much a perfect load.
3.5 Gn is not enough you risk getting a bullet stuck in the barrel.
above 4.5 Gn of Blue Dot and it will blow the skirt off a hollow base wad cutter, leaving it stuck in the cylinder.
After I have cleaned the gun I give it a spray with Brunox all over & wipe down with a silicon gun cloth including the spindle.
This will cure your cylinder rotation issue.
I have shot in excess of 60 wad cutters in one go without any issue.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, I'll have another range session on Monday night and will report back.
I also have a nitro burning Uberti revolver from Anvil Conversions - the de-priming tool from that gun is perfect for use on the Westlake cylinder.
NSRA and NRA qualified RCO.
How are you getting on with it now.
Have you sorted out the problem you had with it?
Just an update on the bullets I have tried.
I was sent some free samples to try from the "Shellhouse Bullet Co."
Some solid 148gn & some solid 125gn .358 Wad cutters
The 125gn would not fit in the cylinder
Some of the 148gn ones did, but where not as accurate as the Wad cutters I brought direct off Alan Westlake
I was looking at casting my own, so I sent one of Alans Wad cutters to Henry Krank with a view to buying a Lee Mould & Sizer.
They measured Alans Wad cutter & found it to be just under .357 (356.5 size)
The same as I had measured using my cheap callipers.
Would love to know what Mould Alans guy uses to cast the bullets as they shoot the best.
I am just concerned a little when the day comes that I can no longer purchase bullets direct from Alan.
The closest bullets I have seen to Alans are Hornady 148gn 38 Cal Hollow Base Wad Cutters.
Norman Clarkes should be able to get hold of these, don't know whether to give them a try or not.
Stuart
Stuart I believe the bullets from Allan are swaged. I've used some of the 158's from shell house and they were better than the ones Allan sold me.
Sorry for the late report back guys, not had much range time lately.
Bullets - I cast 105gr SWC from pure-ish lead (not range scrap), size to .357 and lubed with liquid alox. (Lee dual cavity mould and Lee sizer) These are every short plain base slugs, about half the size of Alan's HBWC. (These also shoot great cast from range scrap in my Marlin rifle for gallery work) They shoot perfectly well and don't move under recoil, I think they are just long enough to be gripped where the chamber steps down in size. Feel the same as the HBWC when laoding with the supplied tool. Anyway they are working fine on charges of Blue Dot from 3.2gr to 3.5gr. Accuracy every bit as good as the HBWC at 22 yards and no hollow base to have skirts blown off.
My stuck cylinder problem - narrowed this down to the primers sitting very slightly proud and binding on the rear of the action. (Remingon 209's). After much testing I had a good friend of mine (cheers Steve!) deepen the primer pocket flanges *very* slightly. Primers now sit flush and I can actually get a full cylinder away without problems. On testing the primers there was a bit of variation in rim thickness on the Remingtons plus there was a variation in primer pocket depth on the chambers, obviously when it was sticking I had a fat primers sitting on undersized chamber flanges.
Also noticed that the crane arm can work loose, inducing a wobble on the cylinder alignment. Keep nipping up the screw every 2 cylinder's worth and it's fine.
Trigger adjustment - remove the grip panels to reveal a screw which gives a limited range of adjustment. It's attached to an ovoid pin which a spring rides on so 360deg gives a full range of adjustment. It is possible to dis-assemble further if you want to fiddle but I wouldn't recommend it. Not *too* difficult but it's unlikely you'll ever need to clean inside, mine didn't need cleaning when I checked.
NSRA and NRA qualified RCO.