never used a spring compressor , just an old towel and your own weight to take the load off gently .
I'm a bit worried about removing the rail. Also, do you need a spring compressor?
Thanks
never used a spring compressor , just an old towel and your own weight to take the load off gently .
A spring compressor is usefull but not imperative. The rail can be very tight as the rubber cushion ( one strip either side) really does grip the cylinder. What I do to remove the rail is ( after removing the end cap , cross pin and spring,obviously), spray wd 40 into the length of the joint between rail and cylinder on both sides, this loosens the sticky film holding the rubber strips in. Then tap the rail rearwards using a hard plastic or wooden drift and a hammer, so as not to mark the rail or tube. The rail only goes back about half an inch then lifts up, so don't keep hammering thinking it is jammed.
That's all there is to it. Refitting with the same lube and soft drift.
Pete.
Im going to be doing one of these myself. I was told that to put it back on it is helpful to apply downward presssure on the rail as it is drifted back into position,thus helping it to engauge. Are new plastic strips always required on re assembly?
Thanks very much. Also, can the piston come out without stripping the trigger?
The strip and rebuild is as Pete describes and not too difficult
Use a piece of wood up against front end of rail to remove it without damaging the cylinder
Also use a piece of dowel with a slot cut into one end to fit inside the cylinder and around the cross pin.
A spring compressor would help but the job can be done without one.
It's a few years since I replaced a gas ram in mine with the original piston but I don't remember having to strip the trigger. You may have to manipulate the sear to clear the piston though
John
hold me back !!
It can but requires a set procedure that is easy to do but difficult to explain. What yo have to do is pull the trigger back and hold it .....then looking at the rear of the trigger unit you have to lift the rear end of the sear up ( assuming you have the rifle upside down in a gun cradle with trigger unit uppermost), and keep it there ,against sear spring pressure, whilst sliding the piston out.
What I do is pull back the trigger and zip tie it back, then lift up the rear end of the sear about 3mm using a sharp instrument.......then whilst holding it up insert a small screwdriver from the side ( in between sear and cylinder),to wedge the sear out of the way of the piston.
It is easier to do than it was to explain.
Pete.
Thanks very much all of you. Looks like it wont be too hard after all with your advice.
I have done a few of these from lighting, airsporter carbine, superstar and goldstar. TBH they arent as bad to do as you think.
Like has been said, tap the rail back with a peice of plastic until it comes back far enough to lift out. When putting back on I tend to put a little grease or oil where rail goes on to help it slide back on. I found that there's really no need to put any more pressure than hand pushing down before tapping it back on level with a rubber mallet.
Fozzy
The glorious Maxigrip scope rail...
I think BSA would like you to get a new set of rubbers each time you take one off but I never saw the need & haven't had a problem.
I used to get into contortions with G clamps & wood packing to press the thing down when I reinstalled it, but a few years back I tried it with simple hand pressure & it went back quite happily, the lugs get a grip & pull it tight on their own.
As noted, WD40 is your friend.
I may have a go tonight