What's it like for "give" at the two bends? Can you solder a web on the inside of the bend, to take out some of the potential flexing?
What's it like for "give" at the two bends? Can you solder a web on the inside of the bend, to take out some of the potential flexing?
www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee
You read my mind, until all the guides are fitted (i hope to support the rod in 3 places) weather i will need to brace the bends, the trigger is light, supporting the rod with my fingers and pushing against the trigger the rod doesn't flex at all,i can push the trigger all the way back, surprising as the rod is only 2.5mm thick. I want to keep it as simple as possible..
Sometimes the best designs are the simplest - I trust the linkage won't foul on the cylinder-stock interface?
JB
Never eat yellow snow
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With the linkage attached to the tip of the trigger you will get a lot of travel in the first stage, especially if the pivot for the slave / forward trigger is above the fixing point of the link rod.
Hth
Wwwdot
Bsa R10 Mk2 .177, Theoben Evolution .177 CS800, TX200HC .177, HW100T .177 Bullpup, Airwolf MVT .177, Ray Neale Titanium JIm Vickers stock .177
i think i may be more excited than you for the end result.lol
I know you were after something simple, but I was having a think how to get rid of those reverse bends in the spoke.
I tried having one simple toggle lever but the movement would be reversed, I mean, pulling the trigger at the finger end would push the actual blade forwards and not back; too difficult.
Here's a concept idea; the green fulcrum points would need to be supported by a bracket fixed with the screws that hold the trigger guard on.
www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee
Never eat yellow snow
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Yes I agree. It was just a thought as to how to avoid the springiness that will be introduced if the bent spoke flexes at either of the bends. If we want to keep the weight down and use thin spokes, the stiffness will become an issue. This could be minimised by making the bends as open as possible so that the spoke is on the line of force, as near as can be. Or, as suggested, introduce a gusset brace.
Maybe the best solution for a bullpup trigger anyway is to go electrical, and fire by wire. I've always thought the Airwolf was a prime candidate for pupping.
www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee