[QUOTE=tacfoley;6721438]Cheap method - uses a fired cartridge case and a bullet that you can use again.
1. Take your once-fire case and neck size it.
2. With a fine-blade hacksaw, cut three or four slits in the neck down as far as the shoulder.
3. Insert the bullet - it should be held fairly tightly by the neck, in spite of the slits, which act as a spring-loaded 'retainer'. Insert it just far enough to be held without falling out.
etc, etc, etc
QUOTE]
Bang on how I do - But Tac described it better than I could manage
.22LR CZ452; .22 Hornet CZ527
Tikka T3 Varmint .223; .204 Ruger CZ527 Varmint;
6.5 Creed Bergara B14 HMR
Probably the single most important reloading tool. http://www.hornady.com/store/Lock-N-...traight-1Each/
Marksmanship = Accuracy, Consistency, Observation and a little of The Force
SharpshootingUK www.sharpshootinguk.com
Thanks Rich, will give that a try.
It is amazing how much stuff is needed to reload. Anyone new to reloading would think that a 'kit' gives them all they need but I'm finding that there's more and more bits that I need. I'm still building up the gear before attempting to start. So far I've got:
1. Hornady Lock 'n' Load Classic Kit (press, powder thrower, trickler, digital scales, hand priming tool, chamfering and deburring tool)
2. FL sizing dies and seating die
3. Digital calipers
4. Lee case length gauge and shell holder for power drill (awesome little tool by the way)
5. Hornady case sizing wax
Still need:
1. Ultrasonic cleaner for brass
2. OAL gauge (and possibly Hornady Comparator Body and Anvil Base)
.22LR CZ452; .22 Hornet CZ527
Tikka T3 Varmint .223; .204 Ruger CZ527 Varmint;
6.5 Creed Bergara B14 HMR
The thing is you don't Need anything more than is in the kit, apart from dies,calipers and consumables, but you soon realise there are lots of items that will make it easier, quicker and possibly create more accurate ammo. You don't really need an OAL gauge if you use any of the methods above but it potentially will measure more accurately and if it makes you more confident in your loads then fair enough. I've managed fine without one so far and my loads shoot plenty accurately enough for me.
If you can find one cheap a small pillar drill is good combined with the case length gauge as it leaves both hands free, whilst spinning a quick polish with ultra fine wire wool gets the cases nice and shiny and removes the external burr.
Thanks for looking
once fired brass or sanded/reamed/sized with something like a K&M sizer. Gun upside down, depending on caliber you can drop a bullet in from the rear or if not bullet in before you chamber. Use a cleaning rod with 2 (makes it tighter) o rings on and push the rod in until the bullet stops (not too hard). Withdraw rod carefully to avoid dragging them. Reassemble case and bullet outside of the gun.
Just make sure the case is tight in the chamber (I use a shotgun wooded cleaner rod section).
In many cases (especially European 243s) where you cant get the bullet on the lands before it is out of the case with lighter bullets. 223s with TNTs are also a challenge as tend to be too long for the magazine.
I tend to start all my loads at bullet diameter depth. It is quite often the case that bullets on or into the lands is not the best position.
You're not wrong Boydy, must admit, I am enjoying collecting the bits and bobs.
My £30 ultrasonic cleaner arrived today. I threw some once fired brass in with 1 cup of warm water, 1/4 cup of white vinegar, tablespoon of salt and a squirt of washing up liquid. Put the timer on for 6 mins and they came out looking pretty good bar a couple of marks in the primer pockets
Thanks Tac, duly noted as I mentioned above. I'll certainly be giving that a try before I consider investing in an OAL guage. I'll be sure to let you know how I get on
.22LR CZ452; .22 Hornet CZ527
Tikka T3 Varmint .223; .204 Ruger CZ527 Varmint;
6.5 Creed Bergara B14 HMR
I used your method the other day Tac for the first time as I was loading 69 gr TMKs which wouldn't leave a lot of room for powder if seated to SAAMI length, worked perfectly so measured the 3 different bullets I'm planning on load testing over the next couple of months to give me a start point.
Used a Dremel with 2 fine cuts as I found I just beat the neck up with the hack saw!!
Thanks for looking
You Cannot Reason People Out of Something They Were Not Reasoned Into
"Politicians like to panic, they need activity. It is their substitute for achievement" Sir Humphry Appleby
Forget all the 'off the lands' faff it is totally unnecessary. Load to book COL and then crimp with a Lee factory crimp die.
If you ask the reason why most attempt to load just off the lands you will not get a straight answer - coz they do not know in reality.
The Lee FCD negates the buggering around measuring this distance and achieves a consistent shot start pressure (what the jump to the lands is all about).
Blimey Marten that's a bit of a leap mate.
Jump to the lands is about optimal barrel exit timing within the harmonic 'shake' of the barrel on firing.
I don't see any work class accuracy shooters using crimp dies lol!!
No disrespect meant but don't start Elliot off on the wrong foot here
Richard Utting
Marksmanship = Accuracy, Consistency, Observation and a little of The Force
SharpshootingUK www.sharpshootinguk.com
You Cannot Reason People Out of Something They Were Not Reasoned Into
"Politicians like to panic, they need activity. It is their substitute for achievement" Sir Humphry Appleby
So telling me not to start Elliot off on the wrong foot yet you start waffling on about OBT?
OBT is not taken care of with the jump into lands exclusively, the powder load is the major factor. OBT can be tuned just as easily from COL moving a few thou either way.
I'm trying to keep it simple for a novice, so don't worry about a jump into lands or even measuring it, just load to book length - simple.
As to competition dudes they need a mental edge over their competitors hence all the puffery n bs.