Reloading 357magnum and 38special

[JackDavis]

What die set should I get from Henry Kranks?

It says with 38 special 3die set you can reload 357 magnum

So should I buy this kit ? http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?...oducts_id=2299

This is the deluxe pistol kit with 4 dies and she'll holder

[Turnup]

Not clear from the website what the 4th die actually is - the three die set has Resizer, Expander/Powder thru, and Bullet seat/crimp. I presume that in the 4 die set the 4th die is a crimp die. When I used to use a 3 die set I found that the seat/crimp die had a tendency to shave lead off the edge of the crimp cannelure (remember that it is in the final stages of crimping while the bullet is still moving in the final stage of seating), so I obtained another die, set one so that it would seat and not crimp, and the other so that it would crimp and not seat - much better that way.

If you plan to switch between .38spl and .357mag, because of the different case lengths, be aware that it will be necessary to re-adjust all but the Resize die when you change cases. Those who do so frequently usually purchase another turret plate and a second set of dies (one for each case type) so no re-adjustment needed.

[steve medlock]

Fairly sure that's the set I use and do load both cases. Prefer the longer case myself though.

Steve

[ZaksGod]

it looks like my set jack but the bar code is different.mine is 7 34307 90510 1.
this just could be the fact that it is the 4 die set maybe

[JackDavis]

Cheers 👌🏼

Lee 38 SPL Pistol 4-Die Set. Includes Carbide Full Length Die, Bullet Seating Die, Powder Thru Expanding Die, carbide factory crimp die, Universal Shell Holder, Powder Dipper and InstructionsLoad Data.

[Simon_S]

Make sure there Carbide ones
You will find that the Bullet Seating Die crimps the bullet in anyways, so the
carbide factory crimp die is not needed

http://www.henrykrank.com/index.php?...oducts_id=1918

[CROWMAN]

I have a Lee 3 die set, i.e. no specific crimpt die, I hope to obtain a carbide sizing die soon and am interested in whether I should also obtain a carbide crimpt die?

I note that the previous answer said that there was no need as the sizing die did the job?

Any opinions on this?

Also, does everyone crimpt there 357 rounds? I've loaded and fired many many rounds and never conciously crimped a round, with no adverse effect that I've noticed

I'm using about 7.2 grains of GM3 powder with a 0.358 diameter, 158 grain, copper coated bullet

Thanks for any/all replies

[DedIdick]

The only Carbide Die you require is the Sizing Die.
3 Die set has done me OK the last 30-40 years.

[Turnup]

I have a Lee 3 die set, i.e. no specific crimpt die, I hope to obtain a carbide sizing die soon and am interested in whether I should also obtain a carbide crimpt die?

I note that the previous answer said that there was no need as the sizing die did the job?

Any opinions on this?

Also, does everyone crimpt there 357 rounds? I've loaded and fired many many rounds and never conciously crimped a round, with no adverse effect that I've noticed

I'm using about 7.2 grains of GM3 powder with a 0.358 diameter, 158 grain, copper coated bullet

Thanks for any/all replies

The Lee bullet seating die is also a crimper. You probably are crimping your rounds - - else how is the neck flare removed after seating the bullet?

With the Lee die, the crimp is determined by how far the die is screwed into the die plate, and the bullet seat is determined by the adjustment screw in the top. Adjusting the crimp will also affect the seating depth, adjusting the seating depth does not affect the crimp.

Particularly with magnum rounds, there is a danger that the bullet seating will be disturbed by recoil when other rounds are fired, or by pressure from adjacent rounds in a tubular magazine. Crimping will hold the bullet in place. I have found that the strength/depth of crimp also affects MV (with fast powders at least). More pronounced crimping will increase MV, and shorten case life.

I favour separate bullet seating and crimping, after I noticed that the combined operation can shave lead (with the combined die, the crimping is taking place while the bullet is still moving into the case). So I set the seating die for no crimp, and then use a factory crimp die which is set for no seating.

[DesG]

You only need to raise the bullet seater die and the powder/flare die by an 1/8". I do this with a spacer washer under these dies. No other adjustment is necessary.
A tight crimp is needed with a heavy magnum load in a revolver where the unfired bullets have a habit of pulling from the cases, like with a kinetic bullet puller, under heavy recoil, or if you like to cram them into a tubular magazine where they will push back into the case. Otherwise, I usually just set the crimp die to hold the bullets tightly enough that I can't move it in the case with finger pressure.

GM3 powder is one of my favourite .38 powders, but is made as a shotgun powder and very quick burning. I use 3.4gn for a light target load but I would be reluctanct to use as much as 7.2. The initial pressure rise must be rather severe!

[CapnBall]

A good crimp can really add accuracy with certain powders. You'll enjoy experimenting. The Lee 4-Die set is very good.

The RCBS Cowboy dies are the thing to get when you start to use cast boolits, especially when they are cast/sized 'oversize' for various reasons. Worth their weight in gold.

[CROWMAN]

Hi DesG ,

I'm firing at up to 100 yards with my Marlin using 7.2grains GM3, you have me a bit worried as myself and several other club members are all using GM3 powder with any thing from 6.5 to 7.5 grains

There does not seem to be any problems that can be seen but what rifle, distance are you using and what sort of accuracy are you getting please?

[DesG]

I use a Marlin 1894cs (made in 1984) with microgrove rifling and an eighteen inch barrel for both target shooting and fox/vermin etc. I fire many hundreds of rounds at twenty five yards and average 95 on a pl7/8 target standing unsuported using 3,2 gn GM3 and a medium cast 158gn SWC or FPRN bullet. This gives about 950 fps last time I checked on the chrono. I've also used these rounds at fifty yards with acceptable accuracy. This is acceptable for gallery rifle style shooting. I've also consistently knocked over beer tins at around the hundred yard mark, but this round is running out of steam by then.

I've found when I've increased the powder much above 4.5gns or so I start to experence quite bad leading in the first five or six inches of barrel. I get very similar results with Bullseye powder which is very fast burning and great for pistol loads where you need to accelerate the bullet in a very short barrel but not so good in a longer barrel where you don't want or need such a fast peak of pressure. I'm not sure there's any GM3 left to burn after the first few inches. I used to get very good results in my old Ruger revolver with a six inch barrel and my Browning 9mm with GM3 (and Shotgun 80) but never risked higher velocities with it.

For hotter loads I switch to 14.5gns of Hodgdon H110 powder which is slower burning and produces a much longer peak pressure. Using the same cast bullets with tumble lube I am getting around 1560fps with no sign of leading even after a serious day's shooting.

I've had a good look around and all the GM3 loading data seems to indicate around 3 to 3.5 grains for around 900fps, thus my original remark. Are you showing any signs of high pressure? Difficulty extracting, flattened primers sort of thing.

[mick400]

Hi all

Been keeping a close eye on this thread as I'm developing a load for my 357 Taurus. After regerus testing I've found 3.1g of bullseye with a 158g hard cast bullet gives me quite good groups at 25 yards.

Mick.

[DesG]

Further to my earlier post, I fired off a couple of hundred thirty eights this morning for gallery rifle practice and then shot 3 x ten shot competition cards and managed a 99, 98 and 96 using 3.1gn GM3 with a medium cast (about 8-12 BHI) cast swc 158gn with some of my old Wamadet tumble lube. I think I'm happy with that. Most of the shots were inside a one inch circle with a few flyers caused by my DT's.