Airsporter questions for Jeff

[Airsporterman]

It looks nothing like that example Paul, that is stunning!

Hi Airsporterman. No, this one should not be left alone, nor should it, it is a sight.

At this early point we know it to be pre 1964, thanks to Paul.
Are there any other serial numbers with known manufacture dates close to this one; or a register available?

Honestly mate - you wouldn't say that if you saw it when I was given it and the way it is now!
Normally I would agree that an old rifle should be returned to as 'left the factory' as it's possible to get, however, in this case, I didn't have the heart to change it - I married it to a spare Mk1 stock I had (more cries of woe ) as it didn't have one, also a replacement pop up rear sight as it was missing, it was cleaned up, oiled and waxed and to me just looks 'honest' - I am happy to leave it so, perhaps the next 'keeper' will choose to change it but while I have it, it will remain 'as is'!
(It's individual - as indeed most of them are!)

ASM

[Airsporterman]

Oops, meant to add - I believe John Knibbs may have the BSA manufacturing records with some dates - but they may charge for an enquiry and I don't know if you will get much closer than the date you have?

ASM

[Airsporter1st]

Oops, meant to add - I believe John Knibbs may have the BSA manufacturing records with some dates - but they may charge for an enquiry and I don't know if you will get much closer than the date you have?

ASM

I meant to add that too! John Knibbs dated my rifle for me. They didn't charge and I received the answer within 24 hours of emailing them the serial number. However, I heard subsequently that they do now charge (£20?) for an enquiry.

[edbear2]

Just to add a little bit, on all of the MK1 guns and the early Club I have, the trigger block is anodized. This fades to a tell tale silvery finish with age and can be redone by sending to a platers. The result is far better than any paint finish (I have tried the lot!).

Later MK's were painted with varying degrees / durability of finish, I would imagine electro static painting or powder coat would be the best way to go to re-furb a later gun.

With the silly price of rattlecan paint these days, doing it properly is actually cost effective IMHO.

ATb, Ed

[Airsporterman]

Just to add a little bit, on all of the MK1 guns and the early Club I have, the trigger block is anodized. This fades to a tell tale silvery finish with age and can be redone by sending to a platers. The result is far better than any paint finish (I have tried the lot!).

Later MK's were painted with varying degrees / durability of finish, I would imagine electro static painting or powder coat would be the best way to go to re-furb a later gun.

With the silly price of rattlecan paint these days, doing it properly is actually cost effective IMHO.

ATb, Ed

Powder coating - possibly if you could get it in with a larger batch (to keep down costs) and the quality was good - would be worth a try!

ASM

[slow_runner]

Today I spoke with him for a short while; the Mk2 is up and running again with the original leather seal in place and grouping well with an average in the mid 700s. Not too sure what spring though. Probably a bit of dieseling so should settle to a respectable speed.

You are a good lot, mostly
Thanks for your help. I will pass on the information for Jeff to digest when I visit next and get some images up when I return so that you can see what he has to work with.

[Airsporterman]

Today I spoke with him for a short while; the Mk2 is up and running again with the original leather seal in place and grouping well with an average in the mid 700s. Not too sure what spring though. Probably a bit of dieseling so should settle to a respectable speed.

You are a good lot, mostly
Thanks for your help. I will pass on the information for Jeff to digest when I visit next and get some images up when I return so that you can see what he has to work with.

All old Airsporters (especially the Mk1s and 2s) are worthy candidates for restoration - the parts supply (new and secondhand) is good and they are simple and usually cheap to work on!

ASM